Icemaker makes shells. Outside is frozen but inside is water. When it dumps into the bin the water causes all the cubes in the bin to freeze together in a clump so when you try to use the door dispenser it cannot work since it is just one big clump of ice. Have replaced icemaker motor, icemaker pump, water line, adjuster water line at source, adjusted waterline at icemaker. Spent almost $500. and had 6 different repairmen out. Whirlpool ED22RFXFW 10 years old. Refrig. & Freezer work fine.
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Re: Icemaker makes shells. Outside is frozen but
Hollow cubes are caused by not having enough water in the ice mold. Fill it up manually by pouring water in it and see how the cubes turn out. look for an adjustment behind the plastic
endcover with a +/- on it. - is less water. + is more water.
Try swapping the wires on the dual water inlet valve. Then
try the water dispenser. The water should go to the ice maker. This will tell
you weather or not the ice maker valve is working and if the line is clear.
There is a screen filter before the water inlet valve in the water line. It can get partially stopped up with sediment blocking water flow.
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We first need to know if your referring to the ice tray dumping into the bin. Or the ice dumping out into your cup at the front of the refrigerator. If at the bin I maybe the the defrost element on the bottom of the tray that heats up while the fingers spins around to push the ice out from the tray into the bin has burnt out and needs replaced . Most modles require you to replace the entire tray. However if your referring to the front of the refrigerator at the dispenser for you glass. It could be (1) That the trigger switch is bad or touch pad is bad. But if it makes noise as if its trying to bring the ice but it's not then that's not your problem.(2) it could be that the Alger Screw that moves the ice from the chest to the front could have sheared a pin striped the spines or broke at the knuckle.you would only hear the motor running with no ice movement if this was the case(3) and most likely the spout/opening that allows the ice to get from the bin to the Auger has restriction/ frozen block do to improper drainage during defrost cycle. Simply remove the bin inspect and use warm water to clean out obstruction. Hope this help.
The waterinlet valve on the back of the unit where the
water supply comes in can have a slow leak and will cause ice to buildup and
block the fill tube. Disconnect the ice maker line from the valve and watch to
see if it has a slow drip. It doesn’t take much to eventually block the fill
Pour about 1/2 cup of water into icemaker ( unless ice is already there ) . If the icemaker dumps the cubes , then the water valve is bad . If it doesn't dump , and holds the frozen cubes , replace the icemaker . Also check your coils to make sure they are clean from dust , lint , etc . Check the fill tube going to the icemaker , to make sure it isn't frozen with ice . If it is , then watervalve is still bad (leaking ) .
the problem is an unlevel icemaker to prove this do you see little droplets of water freezing from the icemaker or a remote possibilty is do you have to an R/O system and have you change the filter if unit has one.
first off, make sure its under 17F in freezer as icemaker will not start above this...you need to make sure the icemaker is coming on..if so, you may just have a bad water valve. I'd put four ounces of water into the mold and see if it starts by itself dumping out your ice. if it dumps out your ice..look to see if the inlet tube that brings water into your i/m is not frozen up with ice in it..if it is, defrost with hair dryer and wait and see if it starts to work ok dumping ice.if it starts to work ok..replace fill valve..
If you find everything looking normal and your sure no ice plug in fill tube..you can try to start i/m manually..if your confident enough to work with tools and electricity...find the T and H they are close to each other on front of i/m. take an insulated wire and make a jumper that each end has 1/2 of end stripped of to go into i/m T and H..keep in there for 30 seconds and i/m should start on its own..remove jumper and either put i/m back or be ready to catch water should it come on. if no letters on front of i/m just gears. find the small 5/16 gear and turn until rake arm starts to come up. this i/m should start on its own ... if it starts and runs fills, replace i/m...if it starts , but does not fill..your inlet valve may be bad. it helps to have a volt meter for this.. you can remove top and find valve up there or its under the bottom front vent plate. locate wires that go onto valve. use your volt meter to check for 111-130 volts when you restart your i/m as already talked about. remember, it will take several minutes before you notice anything..the i/m needs to cycle first and get to the spot it fills..if you get power and no water and your sure there is water..the inlet valve is bad...
Pour about 1/2 cup of water into icemaker and see if it dumps the cubes after a few hours . If it does , and icemaker does not refill , then water valve is the problem . If the icemaker never dumps the water poured in , then icemaker is bad . ALSO , check to make sure the coils under refrig are clean of dust , lint , etc . Icemaker has to be 5 degrees to operate .
You might have a frozen line. Also and this seems more important to you its prob to cold, Trust me to cold of a refrig will cause hollow ice cubes first leading to a frozen line. Clean your coils, if you have another refrig empty out into that, unplug it leave doors open a couple days. If you can get to water line use a hair dryer from a distance defrost line, turn down freezer half knotch 1 full one at maximum. should fix issues, especially if filter already changed. If this all check prob a clogged line, not just frozen.