Question about Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer
open the bottom panel,3 screws on bottom
check the drain plug ,
remove the plug , mop up water ,
look inside for clogs ,
look above the ball,
look inside the propellers, spin the pumps propeller by hand.
feel around the inside of the front rubber gasket for items.
Posted on Oct 31, 2008
You have a big problem here. It sounds like the bearings on the drum shaft are going. this is over $400 for the back half of the outer drum and you have to be a very good mechanic to get it all apart. I currently have mine apart for the same problem which I verified by opening the door of the washer and lifting the inner stainless steel drum up and down with the machine off, of course. The tub is supported by two large ball bearings on the shaft that is supporting the stainless steel drum, and they don't sell just the bearings and seal, only the back half of the drum. If it has gotten bad enough to rub against the front half of the outer tub, it will probably have to be replaced also, about $120. This was probably caused by overloading the washer or washing something that was unbalanced and heavy; this destroys the seal between the inner drum and the heavy bearings, also not available separately, and lets water into the bearings in the aft outer tub which support the inner tub shaft. If you want to try to take this apart to verify, try looking at Whirlpool consumer services technical education group presents #L-68, Job Aid Part No. 8178076. I found it online. It has detailed instructions how to take this machine apart if you are a technician or a talented amateur, as I am. Good luck.
Posted on Apr 06, 2009
VERY loud noises might indicate a loose counter weight. Open the cabinet then raise the top and check the condition of the counterweights and that they are fastened down properly. The front lower counterweight is held on at the ends by two lugs connected by a formed rebar rod and a spaced bolt in the middle of it. Check these first. Loose you can fix. If the rebar breaks, the counterweight will beat the inside of the machine up pretty good, usually damaging the water pump strainer housing. If this doesn't solve your problem, look at some of the other posts here for other ideas. They're really good.
Posted on Jul 10, 2009
Slow drain. Check your drain hose for kinks and make sure it's not partially plugged. If it is going into a pipe make sure it isn't pushed too far into it.
Posted on Sep 11, 2009
If your washer won't spin, check these:
It doesn't pump or spin
If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:
the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or
a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the
washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn
freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken
or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley
before you change the belt.
the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the
washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is
inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you
have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to
the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
It pumps, but doesn't spin
If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:
lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't
spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the
door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the
washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to
motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a
small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber
and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the
transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails.
You may need to replace it.
belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a
belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine
belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed
with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come
up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent
the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need
to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified
appliance repair technician.
drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor.
For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and
draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one
direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you
need to replace the entire motor.
spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components
allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is
the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call
a qualified appliance repair technician.
It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.
Posted on Jan 30, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Hello & Welcome to FixYa
Error code 5d/Sd means suds have been detected. To solve this
problem you have to take the bottom front panel apart and then clean the drain
filter pump assembly completely, make sure the washer is unplugged before
working on it. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.
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