Question about GE Washing Machines
If your washer is filling until it overflows without agitating, and will stop filling if you turn machine off or interupt power to it, the machine is not seeing that it is full. This may be caused by a blocked water level tube (usually some "goop" where it connects to the tub), a hole in the water level tube (look near the suspension rod or where a mouse may have chewed a hole in it), or a bad water level switch. You do not state a model number, or even if it is a top loading or front loading machine, so that is the most information I am able to provide at this point.
Posted on Oct 19, 2009
You have a bad water level switch or a clogged plastic hose that goes to the water level switch.
Use a putty knife to open the front panel. The clips are at the top right and left sides just below the top lid. Push in on the clips and pull out on the panel.
On the left side of the tub you will see the air dome with aplastic hose connected.
Remove the hose and insert a small wire into the air dome hole to clean it out ouf soap scum. Then, blow through the hose and listen for a faint click in the water level switch. Also check the hose for a hole or being pinched.
The set the timer for spin and run a spin cycle then retry the water level and wash cycle.
Posted on Apr 01, 2009
There are two possible causes. The most likely cause is the lid switch, which is supposed to keep you from sticking your hand into the moving basket. On many washers this only keeps the machine from spinning, but on other models it prevents agitating as well. The other possibility is the water level switch, but that usually causes no filling or overfilling if it's bad.
Both parts are available from Sears (www.searspartsdirect.com) and many other online sources. (I normally use the Sears site to find a part number if I don't already know it, then search for that number on Google. It's a great way to find good prices on more costly parts.) There are also a number of sites with detailed information about how to remove the cabinet to get at the parts if you want to try doing it yourself. Replacing these parts is pretty simple if you're comfortable with a screwdriver and have some mechanical ability.
If you'd rather have someone else repair the machine, this would normally be about a 1 hour plus parts charge for an appliance technician. It isn't time for a new washer yet.
Posted on Apr 25, 2009
I think you may have a stopped up pump does it drain the water out if not it will not spin. A putty knife inserted 2 inches in from each side will release the spring catches and gently pull on front as you release sprins then look to the bottom right hand side and there is the pump clamp the tub to pump hose or **** water out with a shop vac take off tub to pump hose and then two 3/8 in screws that hold down the pump turn over where you can look in the pump may have an obstruction as always disconnect power before service.
Posted on May 31, 2009
Hello, your problem is going to be with the lids switch, in this machine it is going to be a magnetic contact. You can confirm this my pulling the front panel off and accessing the wireing to the lids switch, If you have electrical knowledge bypass the lid switch using a wire nut and run the machine. If all is ok make sure you relpace the lid switch since it is there for a reason. If you have any other questions or concerns please feel free to comment again. Good Luck!!!
Posted on Jul 19, 2009
I see this pretty regular. You have a bad transmission. This is very common with the older GE's. To replace the transmission will run around $340 / $400. Not sure about your area. Just be glad you got this much use out of it, you are one of the very few that have. From 1998 till 2007 I owned my on repair company where I did GE's warranty work in my area for them. During that time period. When I found a GE washer under warranty doing what you are describing. GE would warranty the whole machine. They would have me destroy the machine after I would deliver the customer a band new one. GE knows they had a bad transmission and it cost them a lot of money. It was cheaper for them to replace the washer than have me repair it. The transmission list price was $298.00 back then. A word of advice, when you replace it. Buy a Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag. These brands hold up the best. I have the least service calls for Whirlpool and Kenmore. Both are made by the same people. Kenmore is made for Sears. Good Luck.
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Posted on Aug 21, 2009
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