White Balance images are redish. I'm using studio strobs. One 32inch soft box and one 4 inch umbrella. Modle light only in soft box. ISO100 Shutter 125 f:8 exposure determine with light meter. Also using expo disc pointing back at camera location between both light sourced to determine custom white balance. My main subjects are black people. The room is also lit with tunsent light 10 feet high. Thanks. Lee

Different lights for different effects. If you want the best color, and want to avoid harsh shadows, shop on ebay for a Novatron power pack and flash heads. Two flash heads and the pack can be had for under $200. Start making money before spending more. The flash heads will provide great color, allow for adding umbrellas to diffuse the light, and allow for shooting at lower ISO so you have high image quality. The flatheads also have flicker free tungsten modeling lights.

higher iso settings allow you to use a faster shutter speed. This can be extermely helpful when handholding your camera, especially with the telephoto end of some zoom lenses on small digital cameras. Faster shutter speed will also freeze action better.

automatic white balance can be useful for shooting quickly in changing light conditions; however I rarely select auto as my standard. the auto setting often gives inconsistent results simply because it is an auto function that is making the best of a world that varies in terms of color and light.

Sounds like "Camera Shake"

With Digital photography, any motion of the camera will tend to blur the photos. You'll see double edges in some photos, and plain fussy pictures in others.

The sharpest photos come from cameras sitting on stationary objects while the picture is taken.

Depending on how advanced your camera is, there are a couple of settings you can toy with.

One is the ISO setting which mimics the "Film Speed" exposure rating of camera film measured in as ISO100, ISO 200, ISO 300, ISO 400.
The Ratings are a balance between Fast action light capture, and slow higher resolution detail light capture.

ISO100 will make a cyclist passing by look like they're standing still.
ISO400 will make a cyclist passing by look like a blur passing by.

ISO100 will have larger dots of colors on the picture, (Low Resolution)
ISO400 will have tiny dots of colors on the picture, (High Resolution)

So, ISO setting is a matter of getting the best picture without the blur; get as close to ISO 100 as you can.

The other setting is Shutter Speed.

Some cameras will allow you to slow the shutter speed down to help get clearer pictures in dark environments, like places with high ceiling lights, or outside after sunset.

Again you want the fastest option available, here the balance is the same as the ISO, bright clear picture versus dark blurry picture, so you want the shortest shutter speed possible.
This is measured in fractions of a second, and often only the denominator (lower half) is mentioned, like this:
1/8 of a second is called 8 or (125 milisecond)
1/4 of a second is called 4 or (250 miliseconds)
1/2 of a second is called 2 or (500 miliseconds)
1 whole second is called 1 or (1 for one second)

On digital cameras it often simply mentioned as the fraction in a menu called shutter speed. The default is often the fastest capable speed.

Browse the menu options for ISO and Shutter speed to see what modifications you can make.

Remember it's about capturing the light, so bright sunny days are easy highest speed settings, but shady or indoor environments will take practice and fine tuning.
Also, make use of the timer delay option and set the camera on a stationary object to capture the clearest sharpest images.

Have Fun.

Display Optical Viewfinder Yes Optical VF Type Optical LCD Viewfinder Yes LCD Size (inches) 1.5 Power Battery Form Factor 2 x AA or 1 x CR-V3 Usable Battery Types Alk. / Lithium disposable, NiMH rechargeable Batteries Included 2 x AA Alkaline disposable Battery Charger Included No Flash Internal Flash Yes No of Flash Modes 4 Flash Modes Automatic, Fill (On), Off, Red-eye reduction Flash Range Description Unknown Ext Flash No Connectivity Video Out Yes Video Mode Switchable Yes External Connections USB 1.1 Other Connection DC In Included Software Unknown OS Compatibility Windows, MacOS Image Storage Usable Memory Types SD/MMC Other Memory Types Built In (8MB) Memory Included (MB) 8.0 Uncompressed Format None CCD Raw Format No Compressed Format JPEG (EXIF 2.1) Movie File Format MotionJPEG (AVI) Image Capture Image Resolution 1280x1024, 640x480 Movie Resolution 320x240 Aspect Ratio 4:3 CCD Sensor (Megapixels) 1.30 CCD Manufacturer Unknown CMOS Movie Audio No Quality Levels 3 Lens Digital Zoom Yes Digital Zoom Values 2x Auto Focus No Manual Focus No Normal Focus Range 120 cm to Infinity
49.0 in to Infinity Max Aperture f/3.0 Aperture Range Description f/3.0 Lens Thread Type None Exposure Number of White Balance Settings 5 White Balance Settings Auto, Sun, Shade, Fluorescent, Tungsten Manual White Balance No Longest Shutter Time 1/20 Shortest Shutter Time 1/2500 Exp Adj Range 1.5 EV Exp Adj Step Size 0.30 EV Metering Modes Auto Spot Metering No Aperture Priority No Shutter Priority No Full Manual Exposure No Self Timer 10 seconds General Model Number 3315 Camera Format Compact Currently Manufactured No Retail Price $99.00 Street Price $105.00 Price Update Date 2003-10-07 Date Available 2002-07-22 Remote Control No Tripod Mount Material Unknown Operating System Windows, MacOS Weight 120 g
4.2 oz Weight With Batteries? No Size 108 x 59 x 36 mm
4.3 x 2.3 x 1.4 in Warranty in Months 12

F1 or 4 are white balance memories, rather than buttons to set the WB.
Menu > Custom WB > Right Arrow > Select F1 or F4 > 
Then put your piece of white card in front of the lense and hit the shutter button. Make sure you haev enough light though !
dave

Your white balance setting is too warm. Try setting a custom white balance or move your current white balance towards the "Tungsten" end. "Cloudy" is a good start.

The sensor for the auto-ISO may be working incorrectly. Try changing the ISO manually for different light modes. You can also try to change the white balance of the LCD. -Setting the white balance: 1. Set the camera to still image mode 2. Press the "Set" button 3. "White Balance" should be the current selection 4. Press the "Flower" button or "Flash" button to move through the available options for white balance 5. Press "Set" again when change appropriately - Setting the ISO: The higher the ISO value, the less light the camera needs to make an exposure, allowing the same exposure to be achieved with higher shutter speeds or smaller apertures. In a digital camera, higher ISO value allows higher shutter speed, at the expense of mottled or grain appearing in the final picture. 1. Set the camera to Still Image mode. 2. Press the "Set" button. 3. Press the "scn" or "timer" button to select ?ISO?. 4. Press the "Flower" or "Flash" button to select the desired setting. 5. Press the "set" button to select. 50/100/200 In the same lighting condition, the higher the ISO value is, the faster the shutter speed will be. I hope this helps.

got my developed film back and all I got were pictures seperated into 4 boxes with one colour a box. can you explain more can you look at the negatives and see whats on them. try a sunny sixteen rul on a sunny day with sun high in sky set camera aperture to F16 if you are using ISO100 film set the camera shutter to 1/100th ISO 200 = 1/200th etc take a picture of a stationary subject - like a brick wall whats the make and model of the camaera

I guess it could be several things; perhaps the color temperature of your lights is the culprit. At any rate, it shouldn't be too difficult to correct - here are two suggestions: 1) Shoot in RAW mode so that you can fine-tune color balance after the fact and don't have to get it right in-camera. 2) Shoot a black/white/grey card in the same lighting as your subject. (all three "colors" on the same card) You can then use the eyedropper tool in either curves or levels to set the black and white points, and the grey eyedropper tool (when clicked on the grey in your shot) should get rid of any color cast, magenta or otherwise. Good luck!

Cameras need a white reference for that measurement, they don't get it from the meter. On your camera (which I think works pretty much like my 10D) you can take a picture of a white card (white reference); the camera would use that frame to set its WB in AUTO mode (AWB). You can also safely guesstimate the K value with a little practice for cases in which a white card is not available or no other white objects are at hand. White Balance measures the light K value which illuminates a scene it doesn't measure the objects in an image. Further, in some cases you may have mixed lighting which makes matters slightly more complex. For example: if you are shooting under tungsten ambient light and want to use flash as a main or fill light you'll have to use a gel on the flash to match the ambient light and set the camera to that K value. This will give uniform light cast (color). However, for creative purposes, it's desirable occasionally to let one of the two light sources "shift". In the example just given, if you set the camera to a K value of 5600-5800 (around a typical flash K value) and use the flash without gels then, the tungsten ambient light would appear as shifted (redish, the typical tungsten colorcast when used with daylight film/wb) while the flash light would be balanced and not shifted. This difference (shift) would give the picture a different feeling.