Loads I have 2-4 ohm subs. And this 2 ohm amp. I am trying to achieve a 2 ohm load with those subs. To do this I know I would have to wire them parallel. But there is a problem. My subs have too small of + and - terminals to run two wires into. So instead of running a positive wire and a negative wire to sub #1 and then another + and - wire from that sub to sub #2, I ran both the positive and negative wires from my two subs into the + and - on the amp. So I had 2 negative wires and 2 positive wires going into the terminal on the amp. Would my subs still be a 2 ohm load?

Your amp should not have a 50 amp fuse at the battery. It puts out 300 watts RMS (continuous power). The fuse at your battery should match the one that is on the amp itself. Your amp is overheating and there is a fault, possibly your speakers are wired to present too low of an impedance to your amp. Disconnect them from your amp, and use an ohmmeter/multimeter and measure the resistance load. It should not be lower than roughly 2 ohms. Depending on whether you bought dual 2 ohm or dual 4 ohm subs, that could be the heart of your problem.

If you bought D2 subs, you can get a 4 ohm load per sub with each sub's voice coils in series, and then parallel them together to get a 2 ohm load at the amp, which is perfect for your amp. Or you can wire each sub's voice coils in parallel, so that they're 1 ohm each, and then series them together at the amp for a 2 ohm load. The first method is simpler. Be sure that you haven't wired each voice coil in parallel (1 ohm per sub), and THEN also wired both subs in parallel to the amp (1/2 ohm load). That would definitely send your amp into protection mode, probably before it would have a chance to overheat. This is another reason why you should not have used a 50 amp fuse under the hood. If for whatever reason, the fuse on your amp doesn't blow, the amp is getting way too much current for it to handle, because of that 50 amp fuse under the hood.

If you bought D4 subs, you have a problem. If you've wired each sub's coils in parallel (2 ohm per sub) and then wired both subs together in parallel at the amp (1 ohm load) you're presenting too low of a load to your amp. Again, this will overheat your amp and send it into protection mode, both of which are what you're seeing. You never want to have two D4 subs with an amp that only handles 2 ohms, because you can't get a 2 ohm load with two D4s. You're stuck with 4 ohms or 1 ohm. 4 ohms cuts your amp power in half, 1 ohm cuts it off completely.

If you know for sure which way you've wired them, then you now have the information to tell you whether you've done it incorrectly or not. If you're not sure, first disconnect your subs and measure the resistance as I described in the first paragraph. If your amp is seeing a 1 ohm or 1/2 ohm load, there's your problem. If you see a 2 ohm load (subs are wired correctly after all) then you may have a bad ground connection, or your amp is bad and needs to be serviced/replaced.

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You will not be able to get the full power from the amp without ruining your sub. The amp puts out full power into a 2 ohm load so option -A- is to just run one coil off the sub and it will absolutely pound -until you roast the coil.Then you can use the other coil and roast that one too. But since you do not want to roast anything-first thing to do is take it to the store and trade it in for a dual 4 ohm sub-wire the coils in parallel and there's your 2 ohm load to achieve max power from the amp. Problem there is that you will have WAY too much power for the sub to handle and you'll blow it anyways (in time).Best thing you can do is get an identical sub(dual 2-ohm) wire the coils in series which will make them 4 ohms per sub then parallel the subs to get back down to 2 ohms overall-you get max power from the amp and hopefully enough speaker to handle it.Hope that helps.

it depends on the amp your using and the impedence of the coils.(ohms) for general purposes lets say that you amp is designed to run 500 watts bridged mono into a 4 ohm load. Lets also say that your subs have dual 4 ohm coils on them. To achieve the 4 ohm load you would want to run the coils in series on each sub,meaning that one of the positives is going to connect to the negative on the sub the remaining + and - terminals are what you will connect your speaker wire to. you just turned your dual 4 ohm coil sub into a 8 ohm single coil speaker. Do the same thing to the other sub and now you have a pair of 8 ohm subs with a set of wires coming from each. Now parallel those sets of wires together( + and +) and (- and -) and run that to your amp. This will give you a 4 0hm load at the amp

Its hard to tell what you can or cant do without knowing exactly which kenwood amp you are using. Generally speaking though most kenwood amps are stable only down to 2 ohms. you will be better off just using 2 of your 12s wired in parallel- that will give you a 2 ohm load. There is a way to use all 3 simply by wiring them in series, it will end up giving you a 12 ohm load on the amp though which will work fine but you wont ever achieve the full power that the amp can do.

If you can setup the Amp as a Mono Amp this will work for you very well unless the Amp needs a 12ω Load when setup for Mono Operations. You will want to hook the Two Subs in Series so that the Amp will see 1 8ω load. This means you will hook a wire to the Positive pole of one Sub and hook the Negative Pole to the Positive Pole of the Second Sub and hook the Negative Pole to the Amp's Negative pole. This will reduce the overall output but will end up having better reliability of the Sub since each sub will only see ½ the overall output of the Amp and you will still get the full output of the Amp.

Dual 2 ohm sub can be wired to achieve a 1 or 4 ohm load.
Dual 4 ohm sub can be wired to achieve a 2 or 8 ohm load.

Usually no difference in Theile Small Parameters.... Only wiring configuration - to get the most power out of your amplifier.

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huge shared common space slot loaded box (size depends on sub 10", 12" 15" you need to clarify that please) the amp specs on earthquakes site say the phd5000 is rated at a max output of 5k watts at 1 ohm 3k watts at 2 ohm so, with 3 dvc 2 ohm subs you only have 3 options of which only 2 will be a usable solution:

1. 3- 2ohm dvc series at sub parralel at amp = about 1.33 ohms at the amplifier this is the best option to get the most power to the subs as each sub will produce a 4 ohm load then wire each one to the amp the amp sees 3 4 ohm parralel loads which = 1.33 ohm so based on the amp specs you would be close to 1200 watts per sub.

2. 3- 2ohm dvc wired in series at sub and all 3 subs series wired together very difficult to wireand will give you a 12 ohm load which is next to no power at all (not a viable solution)

3. 2- 2ohm dvc parralel wired to each other and then at amp the amp sees a 1 ohm load and makes 5k watts max but you can only (REREAD THAT LINE! ONLY USE 2 SUBS IN THIS WAY) WHICH GIVES THE MOST POWER BUT ONLY USES 2 SUBS

You can't wire a pair of single voice coil 2ohm subs to achieve a 2 ohm mono load. Too bad you don't have 2 four ohm SVC's. Sorry

The T10001 can drive a load lower than 4 ohms. Wire the coils of the individual speakers in series to make each speaker 8 ohms. Then wire all 3 speakers in parallel and connect them to the amp. This will give you a 2.6 ohm load.