How can i hook my sunpak 544 to my rebel xti without a slave unit reacting from my internal flash?i see no sync plugs to use on the unit. do they make an adapter or something?

A lot of older flash units for film cameras wont work on digital cameras. Old flashes dont have compatible electronics for modern digital cameras. Flash sync is a normal issue. Try setting the camera shutter speed to 1/60 or 1/100 and try that. The trigger voltage may be too high. To use the sunpak 555 you will need the TTL connector to the multiple contact points on the hotshoe. It might be cheaper to get a remote slave for the flash and use it off camera as a small studio flash. http://camerapedia.wikia.com/wiki/Sunpak_555

Paramount manufactures every kind of sync cords for virtually any camera and flash: paramountcords.com

According to the list at http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html the 544 should be safe.

If you want to be absolutely safe, use something like http://www.adorama.com/WNSSHSHS.html to isolate the flash from the camera.

Yes, you can get pro lighting with this flash.



You will need a Nikon AS-15.

If it's a slave flash then it's fine as it has no physical connection to your camera. It simply fires when it senses the flash firing from your SB-28.

The Rebel XTi has a sophisticated communication protocol between the camera and a dedicated flash. Only ETTL-II capable flashes can benefit from all the features the engineers at Canon thougt out. This means that with the otherwise superb Sunpak you won't be able to emit autofocus assist pulses, red-eye reduction pulses, the camera won't increase or reduce the flash intensity for bracketing, zoom lens settings won't be reflecting on the flash illumination angle, and so on. But! Set your Canon to full manual (125th sec), set Sunpak to auto, take one of the working apertures according to your taste (depth of field, etc.) and set the same aperture on the camera, and shoot. You still can use bounce flash. I am not sure about second curtain flash, I suspect it won't be possible. Both tele kit and milky filter in front of the flash head are of great help, you don't need to worry about the differences these make in flash intensity. Always keep in mind that the flash makes good exposure according to the given working aperture and, as long as you set the same aperture on the camera, the subject will be correctly illuminated. (I have a Sunpak 522 and a 455 and employ them this way, with success, on my XSi.) Of course you can set set the flash in full manual (M/PR/MD), using the left side, set knob and calculator dial, and this is the only way if you want to make series of shots, because the flash can only make bursts if the power is reduced to at least 1/16th. Good light, Laszlo

There can be more than one reasons for that.
1. Broken wire at sync terminal.
2. Electronic sync issue:
2.1. Faulty sync thyristor (CR02).
2.2. Faulty trigger transformer
2.3. Any other passive component around the previous two.
3. Broken sync lead to the flash tube.
4. Broken leads to the main terminals of the flash tube.
5. Electronic fault at main thyristor.
5.1.Faulty main thyristor.
6. Faulty flash tube.
7. Other, like crack on the PCB.
Good luck! :)
If you happen to decide to part with your faulty flash, please consider to write me first, I offer it a good home... best regards, Laszlo klaci(at)index(dot)hu

I'm guessing you're talking about a wireless connection...

Unfortunately, the 430EX can only act as a slave. You'll need one of the following to act as a master control unit: 550EX, 580EX, 508EX II or the ST-E2 transmitter :-(

Matt

see if this helps:
http://www.flickr.com/groups/400d/discuss/72157603805472662/

at a whopping 46.6V.. yes, it would damage it.