Hairline crack in bottom of Hayward skimmer. Can it be repaired or reinforced without replacement as there is an access issue? Perhaps a thin PVC plate glued over the crack?

Foundation cracks can be a concerning issue, as they may indicate structural problems or water damage. The appropriate care for foundation cracks can vary based on their size and underlying cause. Here are steps you can take:

Assess the Situation:

1. Size and Type of Cracks: Measure the width and length of the crack. Generally, small, hairline cracks are less concerning than larger, wider ones.
2. Location: Note the location of the crack - whether it's on an interior or exterior wall, basement, or elsewhere.

Hairline Cracks:

1. Sealant: For small, hairline cracks, you can use a concrete patch or sealant designed for foundation repair. This helps prevent moisture from entering and worsening the crack.
2. Follow Manufacturer's Instructions: Ensure you follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer of the chosen sealant. It typically involves cleaning the area, applying the sealant, and allowing it to dry completely.

Larger Cracks:

1. Professional Inspection: Larger or wider cracks could indicate more serious issues. It's advisable to consult a professional such as a structural engineer or a foundation repair specialist to inspect the foundation.
2. Professional Repair: If the crack is deemed a structural concern, the professional might recommend methods such as epoxy injection, carbon fiber strips, or underpinning to reinforce and repair the foundation.

General Tips:

1. Monitor the Crack: Regularly check the crack's status, especially after heavy rain or changes in weather.
2. Prevent Water Damage: Ensure your gutters are in good condition and direct water away from the foundation to prevent further damage.

Signs That Warrant Immediate Professional Help:

• Sudden or Rapid Growth: If the crack grows rapidly, it might indicate a serious issue.
• Interior Damage: Signs of the crack causing damage inside the house, like doors and windows not closing properly or visible damage on walls, should be addressed promptly.

When to Seek Professional Help:

If you're uncertain about the severity of the crack or its implications, or if you suspect structural damage, it's crucial to get professional advice. Foundation issues are best addressed early to prevent costly repairs in the future and to ensure the safety and stability of your property.
Remember, while some minor cracks can be addressed by DIY solutions, larger or more concerning cracks should be assessed and fixed by experienced professionals to ensure the structural integrity of your home.

id look 4 a leak someplace in the suction side of things when pump runs it draws air in hole so No leak but when pump shuts off No draw just water and it leaks out

look for hairline cracks in skimmer bottom and bottom suction lines , Might require scuwba equipent to see ?

Good Day, this is John the Hayward tech. I have attached a link to the SP-1070 skimmer. The weir is replaced by removing a screw from inside the front of the throat of the skimmer. This removes the plate the weir is attached to. You can also just pop out the weir without removing this plate by gently bending the plate at one end and removing the weir pins from the plate. http://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/Automatic-Surface-Skimmer-SP1071-SP1070.pdf

You may experience a little pressure loss, but if the catridge fliter housing has a 1 1/2 input you should be fine.

you turn the basket one way you get flow from the skimmer and the main drain turn it and you get just skimmer turn it again you get just main drain note the bottom of the skimmer basket

If it's a hairline crack just patch from the outside. Use an epoxy glue. I've done the same with copper fittings. Works like a charm.

if you only have a skimmer and no valve to direct suction from the skimmer to he main drain, you will nee to down size your pump, i suggest a hayward 3/4 hp super two pump

Attenuate your skimmer valve slowly to reduce the suction until the cleaner runs smoothly across the bottom of the pool. If you do not have a skimmer valve I would recommend installing an inline PVC valve in the suction hose close to the skimmer so that it is accessible. Close the valve slowly until proper suction is achieved.

Welcome to FixYa
Dear Sir/Madom,
If your skimmer is tied to your main drain, then both holes have to be uncovered for your skimmer to work.
If you have a separate line all the way back to your equipment from your main drain, then you may want to try to open both holes in the skimmers. Turn off your Unit to unscrew the retaining screw on the valve, and then slide the big end over.
If you've not had your pool run all winter, then you may have leaves/debris caught in the line.
If so-you can swing by a plumbing supply house and get a powerflush hose attachment.

• Make sure that none of the holes in any of your skimmers are covered by the oval tab in the skimmer.
• Then, if you have any valves on the inlet to pool pump, rotate them in such a manner to isolate the skimmer line that isn't working, making sure that it is open.
• Place the hose and powerflush device in the upper inlet port of the pool pump, with the pump lid/cover and basket removed. Then, pressurize the line back to the pool with tap water.
• If it doesn't release right away, then let it sit a little while, as you may have to "pulse" it as water pressure drops as water leaks around the clog.
• Pulsing it means to turn the water on for a few minutes, then turn it off. Then, turn it back on, and then turn it off again.

Look down into the bottom of the skimmer. It will have either one or two holes, depending on your model. These holes are where the pool plumbing attaches to the skimmer. Most skimmers have threads inside the holes, and a copper or PVC threaded fitting screws into these ports. Squirt food coloring just above the holes and see if any of it is pulled down into them. This indicates a leak which may be caused by a poor seal between the skimmer threads and the fitting. If you put your finger into the holes, you should be able to feel where the top of the fitting meets the skimmer threads.Repair any cracks or breaks in the skimmer walls with epoxy putty.Use the silicone sealer to repair areas where the skimmer has pulled away from the pool wall, where the corners are cracked, and in tile cracks. These leaks are the result of a cracked bond beam or shifting soil from water getting into the ground around the skimmer.
Also Check this Link
I hope you got an idea...thank for Using FixYa...

Here's a link with a fiberglass repair procedure:

http://www.ehow.com/how_2060134_repair-crack-fiberglass.html

Is this what you need? If not, let me know...

Charlie