Power problems i plugged in all the wires my 12 volt battery source my ground and everything but cant get any power

If you have access to a car battery charger or other 12 volt battery source, you can twist the 12 volt memory and accessory wires together (yellow and red) and attach those to the positive voltage source. Connect the ground wire (black) to the negative source. This will allow you to turn on the unit. Now, you need to have a sound source, and at least one small speaker to test with. Use a CD (simplest) or USB stick with music, or bluetooth enabled phone, whichever will work with your radio to provide music. If you have a bookshelf stereo speaker, or even an old speaker from an alarm clock that should work fine. With your radio powered on, music playing, volume turned up to a moderate level, touch each of the radio's 4 speaker channel's wires to your speaker and make sure you hear sound. If you don't have a car battery charger handy, you can also use an electric drill battery but be sure you know which battery terminal is positive and which is negative before you connect your radio. Another source of 12 volt power may be any number of power adapters that plug into an AC outlet, but you will need to proceed with caution. Check the back of the outlet and note the DV power output, as well as the current output (measured in amperes, or denoted with "mA" or "A". You will need a few amps (not milliamps) to turn on the radio, and at least 12 volts. You'll have to cut and strip the wires, so it's important to know which is positive and which is negative before connecting your radio to the wires. Again, please exercise extreme caution. Do not short the wires together or connect them to your radio in reverse once the adapter is plugged in. Do not perform ANY wire work while the adapter is plugged into the wall.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/reginald_bec291de192ca44f

No doubt, you have lost a connection. It's most likely a ground connection because the rear of the car gets the most abuse from rain, road grime, rocks, etc. Specifically, use a 12 volt trouble light to find the red or black power line. Ground wires are green. If you can't get 12 volts using the ground to a 12 volt source you've found your problem. Unless you're familiar with electrical systems you should be able to find a local car mechanic to help. If you DO know about electrical then replace the ground wire if it's not getting a good ground.

ASSUMMING THE BIKE IS 12 VOLTS WITH A NEGATIVE GROUND;
1. with a voltmeter check across the battery terminals and see that it has about 12-12.6 volts. If it does not then charge or replace the battery first.
2. Check the fuses; most bikes have a main fuse coming off of the battery or in the fuse box.
3. If the battery and fuses appears ok, check for loose or corroded terminals. Also look for connectors and wires that are corroded and/or have a melted look.
4. If everything before this checks out ok, check for 12 power at the back of the ignition switch.
5. At this point it is best that you have a wiring diagram to determine which wires carry power away from the ignition switch. Turn the ignition switch on and continue to track the power wires to where ever they go. When the ignition switch is turned on it should have some wires measuring 12 volts coming off of the switch or the switch is bad. Continue to track wires until they reach there source or a point that no longer has 12 volts and that will be the problem area.

Sound like a ground problem; the fastest way to identify the Power and Ground Circuits is using a wiring diagram. If you don't have one you'll have to find out by trial and error as you probe each circuit.

The power circuit is tested with the Key On and Engine Off. Place one end of your multimeter or Test Light on the Battery Negative Terminal and with the other end, probe the Power Circuit. Turn the Key to the Run position. If the Power Circuit is OK, the Multimeter will show 12 Volts or the Test Light will light up. Here are the possible results:
* You got 12 Volts on the Power Circuit
Good, this is a good sign. The next step is to check the Ground Circuit of the Coil on Plug connector that you're testing.

* No Power in only one Ignition Coil
Without 12 Volts, the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil will not work, thus you have just eliminated that specific Ignition Coil as the source of the fault. Replacing the Ignition Coil with a new one will only be a waste of time and money since, without Power the new one will not Spark.
Since the Power Circuit is shared by all of the coils on the majority of Coil-on-Plug Ignition Systems. The most likely cause will be an open short in that Ignition Coil's Power Circuit.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to make sure how everything is wired up.
After repairing the short, re-do the Spark Test to verify the Ignition Coil is now working.

* No Power at any Ignition Coils
The fuse or relay that supplies this voltage is blown or BAD.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to see where this fuse and/or relay is located and replace as necessary.
After replacing the blown fuse or the defective relay. Retest the Ignition Coil.

Them, the Ground Circuit is tested with the Key On or Off. It doesn't matter because this is a Chassis Ground. Place one end of your multimeter or Test Light on the Battery Positive Terminal and with the other end, probe the Ground Circuit. If the Ground Circuit is OK, the Multimeter will show 12 Volts or the Test Light will light up.

* You got Ground
Good, now the next step is to verify that the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil is receiving the Triggering Signal. This info belongs to the next section of this article.

* No Ground in only one Ignition Coil
Without this Ground, the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil will not work, thus you have just eliminated that specific Ignition Coil as the source of the fault. Replacing the Ignition Coil with a new one will only be a waste of time and money since, without Ground the new one will not Spark.
Since the Ground Circuit is shared by all of the coils on the majority of Coil-on-Plug Ignition Systems. The most likely cause will be an open short in that Ignition Coil's Ground Circuit.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to make sure how everything is wired up.
After repairing the short, re-do the Spark Test to verify the Ignition Coil is now working.

* No Ground at any Ignition Coils
This usually happens thru' human error in most cases and is a very rare thing. Usually the engine was replaced and this ground was not re-attached.
You can Ground this circuit with a jumper wire. Jumpering to Ground just one Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil should provide Ground to all of them (consult your Repair Manual's Wiring Diagrams to be sure).
With this jumper wire to Ground attached, crank the vehicle.
If in fact the Ground Circuit does have an open short, this (the jumper wire to Ground) should make the vehicle start, or at least get the Ignition Coil to Spark.
Repair the open short and retest for Spark or retry starting the vehicle.


Hope this helps. Keep us updated.

A common error wiring an after-market car stereo is where to connect the BATTERY and ACCESSORY wires. Under most conditions, these two wires do NOT get connected to the same point. The BATTERY wire connects to, well, the 12 volt positive terminal of the battery (or any 12 + volt source that is ALWAYS powered). This allows the radio clock to keep time and maintain the radio station presets when the vehicle is off / key is removed.

The ACCESSORY wire is connected to a point in the vehicle's electrical system that has 12 volts + whenever the ignition key is turned to the Run or Acessory position. When the key is NOT in these positions, the point should go from 12 volts + to 0. This change tells the radio to turn on or off, depending on the key position. The radio will power down when the key is removed, so you do not need to manually shut the radio off. This can save the battery if the radio volume was very low. The ONLY time you would accept both of these wires to be connected to the same point is when they are BOTH connected to the 12 volt + terminal of a battery (or wire that is always powered). If you wire this way, you will have to tune the power on and off each time you want to listen to the radio.

Check you manual for color or lable of these two wires, and place them as needed for the desired operation 1) Both on a constant 12 volt + source, or 2) BATT to a constant 12 volt + source and ACC to switched 12 volt + source.

I hope this helps. Please rate my reply with "4 thumbs up" if it did. Thanks!

Usually, purchase of a wiring harness designed specifically for your vehicle model and stereo solves this problem - as the required voltages and signals - including speakers - are made up and it is simply a "plug and play" operation. Newer cars will often require a "magic box" if you will, that uses some data signals in the car to turn on and off voltages for the stereo. Not installing the "magic box" will prevent much of the radio from working and can cause the loss of chimes, etc.

If your vehicle doesn't require the magic box

If it is a new radio first make sure your power wire is actually hot. Use a multi meter. Also you may have a blown fuse in the fuse panel. Check that. Make sure it is grounded as well. Improper ground will make it not power on as well. For this radio Blue = Remote that you run to your amp or power antenna. Insulate it if you are not using either. Black is Ground. Red = Your accessory wire and should only get 12 volts when the key is turned on (switched 12 volt source.) Yellow is your continuous power source. Hook this to your battery or other suitable continuous 12 volt power source. It also has a 5 amp fuse inline. Make sure it did not blow. Replace it to be absolutely sure. Use another 5 amp fuse. Never go higher. The other wires are for speaker hook up. If you do all this and still no power. You may have a faulty radio. Good luck.

yellow goes to a 12 volt power source that never goes off no matter what position you have the key in. Black wire is ground and that can be tied into the frame of the car or another ground wire, you can find out what all wires do by using a test light. Clip one end to a clean ground and pone a wire, if it's +12 volt, it'll light up. Turn the key to find out what the wire is and once you find one that stays on no matter what, you have found the 12 volt batter wire that yellow goes to and if you can't find one there, you're going to have to run a small wire from the battery to the radio ( the radio should have an inline fuse, if not, put one on it if you have to wire it to the battery directly). To fine a ground wire you must first find a 12 volt+ wire, clip one end to the + wire and start poking other wires to find a ground wire. (you only need to know this for older care that nobody makes a wiring kit for.) Some places sell plugs that convert factory wire harnesses to after market configuration and that all you'd do is color match the wires. I hope this helps!

If your radio will not hold memory then you are lacking a constant 12 volt power source. Check the yellow and red wires at the radio. The yellow wire should be connected to a constant 12 volt power source (battery) and the red wire should be connected to a switch 12 volt power source (accessory or ignition).

well this is what you do to check it to see if you bought a blown amp.
wire it into your car and then take a digital volt meter check to see if you have power and ground and remote turn on .


take the red lead and put it on the battery wire at amp and the black lead to the ground then see if you get 12volt to 14.4 use the amps ground for the black test lead if nothing you may have blown fuse or bad ground.

check the remote wire same way as about if you get 12 to 14.4 volt it works if not could be blown from radio or bad ground

checking the ground put the black meter lead on ground wire and the red lead on 12 volt power source if nothing a bad ground.

if your get voltage on the remote wire and battery wire and have good ground then you need to call the seller and get your money back ..

just plug in , these cards are plug and play sistem, after that you plug in you must to installa the driver software