Question about Whirlpool Safety Bath Walk In Bathtub - Stretch Without

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My tub surrounding is about a half a inch wide

My tub surrounding is about a half a inch wide and normal caulking wont cure properly. how can i seal it

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You may want to try to find some thin ceramic tile beading and gluing it in place and caulking the remaining gap. Use a waterproof construction glue. This is most likely to be something you customize to fit. Often you can rent a ceramic wet saw and cut tiling to fit the need. Use proper safety gear, and be particularly careful if ripping thin pieces less you gain the nickname stubby.

Posted on Mar 23, 2010


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I am having trouble with the sealant cracking on my American standard saver acrylic tub/ surround.

If you have movement on the tub it will not seal . you will have to solve the movement first . General sealant which does not mould will normally work .

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My tub is plastered into the wall with caulking. Recently, I have noticed that the caulking is dissapating and loosening up the tub. Fortunately, I have not see a change in my water flow. I want to

Unfortunately this is usually caused by a leak and the drywall is wet , and or the tub is sinking due to water damage to floor. If the drywall is solid then use a utility knife to remove old caulk, then after area is clean apply silicone caulk around the tub. apply neatly but with plenty enough to fill the void. I then spray a dish soap an water mixture on the calk then remove excess by pressing thumb down and sliding it long caulking. This presses it into the gap and also removes excess, which leaves you a neatly caulked tub.

Jan 23, 2015 | Pfister Tub and Shower Repair Kit SK0275

1 Answer

I have a old Jacuzzi that is leaking. on the tub of the Jacuzzi is a knob you can turn to chage the air pressure. The knob is connected to a white tube that connects to a black box. the leak is where the...

Take the unit off of the tub and see if there is a seal there,if there is a seal there try putting some silicone caulking around the seal or where the seal would be and then put the unit back together but don't over tighten the unit until the caulking is cured(24hrs) and then tighten the unit back up and this should seal it back up,unless the water is leaking past the actual switch itself,then you will need to replace this switch!Good Luck!!

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I need a replacement Carafe for Back to Basic CC5500 coffee maker

If the leak is in the seal between the metal center which sits over the warmer and the plastic surrounding it, disassemble it by removing the screws holding the metal to the plastic. Remove the metal center and the silicone gasket. carefully clean the sealing surfaces of the coffee residue on the metal and the plastic and both sides of the gasket, use detergent in hot water, scrub it if necessary and also use some ammonia in the wash water if needed. Thoroughly rinse the cleaned parts with clean fresh water and let it dry. When dry wipe the surfaces with a sturdy paper towel wet with rubbing alcohol to remove any residue from the water.
Glue/seal it together with a silicone caulk which says somewhere on the tube that it is OK for aquariums or one that DOES NOT have any biocide or anti-fungus or anti-mildew additives, they are usually not good for food preparation utensils like your coffee carafe.
To seal it, remember the caulk is very sticky and will make a real mess if you get it where it is not supposed to go, so be very careful and use the minimal amount to leave narrow bead of caulk on both sealing surfaces on the plastic and the metal pieces. It is easiest if both sealing surfaces are placed on a sheet or two of newspaper on a conveniently situated counter- top or work bench. When you are satisfied that there is a narrow bead of caulk ALL the way around the circumference of the sealing surfaces, VERY carefully align the gasket's straight length (about an inch) with the mating surface on the plastic part which is attached to the glass. Gently press the gasket down to the caulk after double checking to make sure it is aligned with the shape of the sealing groove. Now you are ready to place the metal piece on top of the seal, again making sure the straight part of the seal is aligned with the seal you just placed on the glass/plastic part of the carafe and the holes on the metal base align with the holes in the plastic/glass part too. When all is aligned, push the metal piece toward the plastic/glass carafe part until some caulk oozes out and the pieces are close enough to start the screws. Be very careful when starting the screws to make sure they are in the same screw threads, since plastic is MUCH softer that the steel screws, they can cut new threads and then may pull out or not be able to be tightened. to make sure the screws are in the original threads, place the screw in the hole, turn it BACKWARDS up to one full turn, until you hear it click into the original screw thread or feel it drop into the thread. then you can screw it in only a couple of turns. To make sure not to warp the base or damage the plastic bosses that the screws are going into, after starting all the screws, screw them in one by one a few turns at a time going around the circumference of the metal by opposites (if six screws, screw in this order, 1 - 4- 2 - 5 - 3 - 6, then back to 1 and start all over) until the plate is screwed down and the caulk as oozed out all around and the screws are fairly tight. Again the plastic is weak, so you need to screw the screws in firmly, but not too tight. If you are using a jewelers screw driver, it is hard to over tighten the screws, because the screwdriver is so small. This was the hard part, now let the carafe seal cure for 2-3 days, longer if it is very low humidity, since the silicone needs moisture to cure. When cured, the excess silicone caulk can be trimmed off with a sharp knife or single edged razor blade or a utility knife with a sharp blade and the pot should be ready to go. to leach and flavor from the sealant, run a few pots of water through the beast...

If your "sneak a cup" valve is leaking, like ours, try this, take a utility knife and cut the screen out, clean the surface of the tube between the inside of the pot and the valve as best you can. Go through the same cleaning procedure as for the gasket. You will probably have to remove the valve mechanism to do this, note that the third screw holding this valve in is under the handle, which must be gently pried apart to access it. when all is clean, including the valve gasket and the plastic valve mechanism, put it back together. Then fill the space between the valve gasket and the inside of the carafe, where the screen was with silicone caulk, until the caulk completely fills the hole to overflowing. After it cures, in a few days, trim it as best you can flush with the bottom of the carafe. Then run a few pots of water through before brewing any coffee. Hopefully, the leaks are sealed and you have coffee pot that doesn't dribble all over the counter...Have fun!

Jan 11, 2012 | Back to Basics CC500 12-Cup Coffee Maker

1 Answer

There is loose wall mount tub filler. How can I tight it?

Most tub spout are pretty covers for the generic ugly pipes that deliver the water from the wall water plumbing into the tub area. Speaking for this water pipe it's either going to be copper or galvanized iron pipe. The pipe that you see sticking out of the wall is rather short. It ends just inside the wall usually at a 90 degree elbow which in turn is connected to a pipe and other things inside the wall cavity. If this short pipe stub is loose so you can move it in and out of the wall hole some, the reason is that the plumbing pipes inside the wall are not tied down to the wall studs properly.
If the backside of the wall can be opened by cutting out a section of sheetrock in the same location as where the spout pipe is located, you can expose the inside wall plumbing and tie in the wall pipes securely to the wall framing. Afterwards, you need to seal up the sheetrock hole you created.
In some cases this is not possible. When that is the case, your fix is spotty at best. You can use a caulking that becomes rock hard when cured around the pipe nipple as it comes through the wall hole. Hopefully the hard caulking will provide enough tightness tying the pipe to the wall material to help stop the movement. Install the caulking so it is underneath the pretty tub spout when you reinstall it over the generic pipe. Make sure you do not have this caulking involved with the pretty spout so if you need to remove it again, it won't be locked in by the hardening caulk.

Feb 15, 2011 | Cifial Wall Mount Tub Filler Spout CIFIAL...

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Our tub has a lip around the top of 3 sides. The tub was either set in a little crooked or the wall is crooked. The inside corner on the faucet end of the tub the concrete wallboard is recessed about 1/8...

  1. 1

    Cut the tip off the tube of caulk, and load the fresh tube into the caulking gun. Puncture the seal inside the tip of the tube using a nail, stiff wire or the special puncturing tool built onto many caulk guns.

  2. 2

    Insert backer rod into large openings. These foam strips are available in sizes ranging from 3/8 inch to over 1 inch, and should be perfect for most bathroom filler needs. For larger holes, consider using a foam spray filler, but be careful as the foam expands a great deal and could overflow onto your work area if too much is used.

  3. 3

    Caulk the joints as you normally would. For large cracks, don't force your caulking into the crevice, but simply form a bead over the crack. Use multiple beads and a caulking tool or piece of scrap lumber to shape the caulk and remove excess.

  4. 4

    Allow the caulk to dry for 4 to 6 hours. Using the tip of your utility knife, check that the caulk adhered to all edges and formed a seal. For really large cracks, it may be necessary to repeat the process.

  5. 5

    When caulking open cracks, place a bead along each edge of the crack. Allow the caulk to set for 5 minutes, and apply a third bead over the first two. Use the damp sponge to shape and remove excess caulk.

Feb 04, 2011 | Home

1 Answer

I am the proud owner of a SUNFIRE TRUE SUB SIGNITURE SUBWOOFER. THE ACTIVE 12" DRIVER. Has a torn rubber surround. I was surprised that sunfire neither services or provides parts for this $2500...

you can go to a hardware store and silicone caulk that is black, make sure it is flexible type. clean surface with rubbing alcohol and a cue tip to prep surface area well, allow alcohol to dry,apply silicone front and back of cone evenly bout 16th inch thick and let dry for full cure time on directions of silicone caulk tube. sub will work awesome. ive done this on many car subs of high amps and never had it fail. hope this helps you alot, i understand how it feels

Dec 30, 2010 | Sunfire True Sub Signature Subwoofer

1 Answer

Need installation instructions for ASB model# 36850 Hudson tub surround

This is a 5 piece surround. For this project you will need the surround, polystryene adhesive, a utility knife, caulking and caulking gun, dish soap and the box the surround came in. On this type of surround the back and end walls are installed 1st and then the corner shelves are installed. Ensure the wallboard or substrate is clean and free of contaminates. Best to install new backer board or moisture resistant drywall first before proceeding. You will need adhesive specifically designed to glue the panels and corner shelving to the walls. Common product is PL700 from Lepage. Follow the manufactures instructions for the adhesive you are using. Avoid any adhesives not approved for use with plastics as they will damage the surround. Remove the tub spout, hot and cold water handles and diverter handle if your shower is equiped with one. Common diverters are a pull up on the tub spout. Install the panels with the bottom edge directly on the tub deck. For the end panel where the plumbing comes through you will need to cut access holes. Use the box that the surround came in as a template so that you are not accidentilly cutting holes in the wrong location. After installing the panels and shelving corners you will need to seal the seams with 100% silicone caulk. Peel the shelf edges back slightly and run a bead of caulk underneath the seam. Smooth the caulk line out. TIP Use a latex glove and dip your finger in dishsoap. The silicone will not stick to the dishsoap and will leave a clean fine line. Run a 1/4 bead of silicone where the surround meets the tub and also where the plumbing goes through the surround. Allow to dry and cure as per the manufacture's suggestions. TIP Install expanding foam in the cavaties of the shelving. This will provide a more rigid shelf and will extend the life of your new tub surround. Good luck with your project.

Jun 16, 2010 | Home

1 Answer

Shower/tub unit does not fit tight at back of unit and if you step in to tub it skeeks

You have a fiberglass tub with tub surround that clamps together and gets screwed in at the top and sides? Did you shim the feet on the floor? Or just rely on the clips that hold it against the wall? If you can still access to the floor, shim everything up, tight, glue in place, then caulk the tub joints, don't caulk it unless you shim it because I don't think it'll work good. you can try it. But,,,,,, hope this helps.

May 19, 2010 | Home

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