Riveter doesn't eject the pin after rivet is seated.
I have a brand new Stanley riveter (MR33C). It does a good job of driving the rivets, but it fails to eject the pin. I take care to use the right-sized head, but the problem continues. I will appreciate any suggestions.
Re: Riveter doesn't eject the pin after rivet is seated.
If your pop riveter is the same as mine, after you install a rivet you must turn the tool over and spread the arms and the stem from the old rivet will drop out. I had one stem stick inside the tool, and had to disassemble the whole thing...if you have to do this, have a friend with you...you need 4 hands.
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Removal ProcedureCaution: When working with any type of glass or sheet metal with exposed or rough edges, wear approved safety glasses and gloves in order to reduce the chance of personal injury. Important: Before cutting out a stationary window, apply a double layer of masking tape around the perimeter of the painted surfaces and inner trim of the window.
Use safety glasses and gloves.
Carefully spread the handle retainer outward in order to release the latch pin from the latch.
Traditional requires removing the damaged rivet.. at times this requires drilling the remains of the damaged rivet out.. Most of these rivets are "Pop Rivets". You need a Pop Rivet tool and of course the new rivet. The alternative to purchasing the tool and the appropriate size rivet. (Some hardware stores sell the rivets in different sizes by the each). Take the stroller to a sheet metal shop (Furnace A/C installer) or a Auto Body Shop.. both places will have the Pop Rivet tool and probably boxes of rivets.. if the old rivet is missing completely..and they have the right rivet and tool..it's a 10 second repair.
The other alternative.. is a fastener type referred to as "Well Nuts".. this is a rivet like device that you can install yourself.. two pieces.. a threaded insert..and the threaded mate. It looks a lot like a rivet when installed.. usually no special tools required. Good hardware stores may have them.. and it may just do the job.
Most of these rivets on your type of stroller are located in places that require them to be as flush as possible for obvious reasons.. folding.. and safety. If this one is not subject to either. A simple round head phillips screw of the right length and self locking acorn nut will suffice.
Remove the power window switch from the door panel.
Connect the power window switch to the door harness.
Fully lower the glass.
Pull the channel guide cover off.
Remove the screws from the channel guide.
Remove the center channel guide (if equipped).
Carefully remove the glass until you can see the bolts and then carefully loosen all of them.
Slide the window track guide to the rear.
Before removing the guide pin, scribe a line around it. This will
enable you to install it in the exact position it was removed in.
Remove the glass by gently lifting it from the guide.
The glass can now be removed by pulling it through the window slot.
Use extreme caution when handling window glass. Check the guide pin for wear. Replace as necessary.
Detach the connector and remove the regulator through the hole in the door.
Scribe a line around the rear roller guide bolt. This mark will show
where the original adjustment was at before you removed the component.
Remove the power window motor from the window regulator assembly.
Remove any clips and pull the glass run channel out.
It may be necessary to remove the glass stopper.
Grease all of the sliding surfaces of the regulator or component failure may occur. To install:
Install the window motor on the regulator assembly.
As a check, you can connect a known good 12 volt power source to the
window motor to check the operation of the entire assembly. The
regulator should operate with a steady, consistent motion in either
Install the glass run channel into the door as shown.
Install the regulator.
Install the glass.
Install the center channel guide.
Move the glass up and down to ensure free movement.
Attach the door wiring harness to the door.
Disconnect the window switch (on power controlled models) and install it into the door panel.
The remainder of the installation process is the reverse of removal.
Electric Window Motor - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Remove the regulator from the door assembly. Refer to the procedure in this section.
Except for the rear doors, drill a hole through the
regulator sector gear and backplate. Install the bolt and nut to lock
the sector gear in position. Be careful not to drill a hole closer than
in. (11mm) from the edge of the sector. Also, do not drill
through the lift arm attaching portion of the sector gear, or the joint
integrity will be jeopardized.
Drill out the ends of the motor attaching rivets using a
in. (6mm) bit.
Remove the motor and the remaining portions of the rivets from the
regulator. Except for the rear doors, one rivet will not be accessible
(see Figures 1 and 2 / click over pic for zoom)
Fig. 1: Regulator and motor assembly-except rear doors
Fig. 2: Secure the rivets by collapsing the rivet ends using a ball peen hammer
Position the new motor to the regulator. With the aid of an
assistant, install new rivets by collapsing or crushing the rivet ends
using a ball peen hammer.
Except for the rear doors, once two of the three rivets have been
installed, remove the bolt securing the sector gear to the backplate,
then use an appropriate electrical source (such as the vehicle's window
motor harness) to rotate the regulator, providing access to the
Except for the rear doors, use a flat nosed rotary file to grind
off one sector gear tooth from the side which does not contact the
driven gear. This is necessary to reach the remaining rivet. Remove the
old rivet, then install the remaining new rivet.
Install the regulator to the door assembly.
Hope this helps (remmeber to rate and comment this).
you're looking at approx. 25-30$ to replace it. if i had it, i could probably fix it in 15-20 minutes with a pop-rivet and some wd40. i assume you could do the same, if knew how and had a pop-riveter and the proper sized rivets. it's a mechanical problem, not electrical- i assume from your description of the problem. it's a White machine-relatively new? still under warranty? otherwise dependable? expensive? is it worth spending 25-30$ on? if you're old friends- then spend it! check thrift shops, etc. (if it's older machine). my wife loves her old standbys. i'm her fixit man. good luck!
remove trim panel and check for bolts holding the regulator in. Some cars have rivets, big ones that have to be drilled out and a heavy duty riveter to install. Call your local dealer and ask them how much to rpelace and if it has rivets.