10-3 w/ ground wiring diagram

indicates problem motor , overheating in the wiring or excessive loads in the drier

Honestly, thats something you would need to contact an electricain about due to permits and law requirements as far as wire soze for what distance, etc. For as long as I've been doing this line of work, going on 12-13 years, the breaker for the dryer has always been located outside near the meter with all the other 220 vac breakers.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

you need to check your wiring coming to the outlet. when you have a 30 amp breaker kicking, then you have a dead short. i cant imagine needing a 30 amp breaker on 110 volt line. you would need some awful heavy wire at least #10 that is not in most houses going to a washing machine circuit. go to the hardware store and purchase a plug in circuit tester and follow the instructions and if the wiring checks out then you need to check and make sure that the tub in the washmachine has not seized up. if it has not then double check the hookup on the motor to make sure the hot wire isnt going to ground. the green wire is your ground and the white is the neutral and the black is the hot. check the motor instruction as well. good luck

10/3 is fine, but you need 2 - 40 amp breakers on the same circuit to be safe. Anything below that is a risk.

Wiring Option1: Wiring Option2: OLDER HOMES AND ELECTRIC DRYERS NEWER HOMES AND ELECTRIC DRYERS

NEMA 10-30R 30AMP-125/250VOLT

NEMA 14-30 30AMP-125/250VOLT
This system can be configured depending on what your wiring situation is.
For example you could be faced with the following situations: converting an old 3-wire outlet
to a new electric dryer converting a new 4-wire outlet
to an old electric dryer

T103 has 120Volt clock motor, so we can wire this timer.

T103 timer is rated for 30 amps and 2horsepower and your blowers use 28 amps.
So we're getting close to max on the timer. Hopefully blowers won't all be started at one time since motors draw maximum amperage when they start.
However, you need 30 amp breaker and orange 10 gauge wire for that much amperage >> unless only one blower is turned ON at any given time.
Always match wire size, amperage of breaker and amperage of Load or it will trip the breaker.
If you put 30 amp breaker on size 10 wire it is good. But 30 amp breaker on smaller size 14 or 12 gauge wire is fire hazard.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html
Add a comment at any time, and I will respond

Look at the basics:
You have 2 cables.
One cable comes from breaker box.
Other cable goes to three 120V plugs (120V is same as 110V).

Each cable has black-wire, white-wire and bare-copper-ground-wire.

How to wire the timer.
Timer has 5 terminals: A 1 2 3 4

A) Cable from breaker box:
White wire from breaker connects to terminal A
Black-wire from breaker connects to terminal 1

B) Cable going to 3 plugs
Black wire to plugs connects to terminal 2
White wire to plugs connects to terminal A
Ground wires connect to green ground screw.

Terminals 3 and 4 are not used in this case.
Here is a wiring diagram that shows 120Volt from breaker box and 120Volt going to Load
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html#T103

If it is only the oven that is electric and not the entire stove, the required wire size is 10/3 with ground and a 30AMP circuit breaker. If it is the entire stove then you need 50AMP range cable and a 50AMP breaker. If your doing your microwave also, you need a 20AMP breaker and the wire you need is 12/2 with ground.. If the current breaker you were running was 30AMP I would keep that for your oven and run new wire for your microwave.

On the 40 amp breaker, you should be using 8-3 w/ground. 10-3 w/ground will work on the 30 amp breaker. 12-3 w/ground is used for 20 amp circuits. Your new heater should have the electrical requirements listed in the user/installation information.

Sounds like you have a 10-2 NM wire. One black, one white, one bare copper. At panel box, black to one hot terminal of breaker or fuse holder (L1). White to other breaker terminal or other fuse holder (L2). Bare copper to the grounded neutral buss bar.
At the dryer the bare neutral goes to the center terminal, the other two go one each on either side, it won't matter which way. Hot Neutral Hot. The neutral terminal of the dryer should have a wire or metal strap connecting it to the dryer frame if you are not using a four wire supply.

You need a 30amp double pole breaker and be certain that the fuse box is a grounded box, so that your white neutral wire is separated from the green ground wire.
On the dryer your wiring should be as follows:
Red.....left or right terminal
Black...Left or right terminal, (or remaining end terminal)
White...Center terminal
Green: Attached to dryer frame or chassis terminal

In the fuse box:
Black to 1 breaker terminal
Red to other breaker terminal
White to neutral terminals in the box
Green to the ground terminals in the box

If you have no green or ground terminals in the box, then the green wire at the dryer should be connected to an active ground source, i.e., a copper water line or preferrably a copper ground rod.
If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)
"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"