We have just got a second hand ice diamond freezer and not sure what the 2 drip and 1 drip symbols mean can you help me thankyou,

Hello;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

I am going to assume your compressor and condenser fan is running. Your condenser fan is in the lower back of your freezer.

You will need to remove the back cover in your freezer. There are 6 screws holding it on.

Check the following (Cover Removed):

1.) Frozen Drain - Your freezer goes into a defrost mode every 8-10 hours, where your freezer shuts down except for the lights, and your defrost heater turns on for about 20-30 minutes to defrost your cooling coil. If you have a frozen drain, the condensate builds up behind the back wall and icing the cooling coil, restricting air flow. You must defrost the coil.

2.) Freezer Fan Motor Failure - Having removed the back wall observe if the freezer fan motor is running. If not replace.

3.) Refrigerant Restriction or Leak - If you observe a large build-up of ice in the upper right hand corner, then you have a restriction or leak. The cost of repair would be about $400.00

4.) Bad Thermostat - In the upper right hand corner of you cooling coil, attached is your thermostat. They can explode, where the back of the thermostat will raise up.


You can also check it with a multi-meter, set to the lowest Ohms (Omega Symbol). You need to cut the wires, leaving enough wire length to rewire back in. Put the thermostat in a glass of ice water for 10 minutes. After, it should Ohm out around 16. It is reads '0' or infinity it is bad. Below 15 or 16 it is bad

Red light on for High Freezer Temperature Warning
or freezer not cooling, but fridge is and a lot of noise from compressor.
Also, fridge drain hole blocked, water in bottom of fridge.

This is a common fault in Hotpoint Fridge Freezers and can also happen if the door has been left open or has been a power cut.

1. Turn off fridge freezer, or at least turn down the freezer temp to minimum, though not ideal.
2. Open freezer door and remove all drawers.
3. Remove the back panel on the inside of the freezer. This is held in place with 4 screws, which might be 6mm hex head or star allen head. Pull the panel out.
4. Behind where the panel was, there is a cooling element for cooling, pipes, and below this a temperature sensor. If the fridge freezer is not switched off, then fold together a few layers of tinfoil and wrap around the sensor.
5. Use a hairdryer to slowly melt the ice. Melt it around areas where it appears to be hanging on, such as the corners of the cooling element or bolts, as well as any thin sections below the main block of ice around the cooling element, which will be supporting the main block. Use a plastic ice scraper to remove ice but not near pipes or sensor.
Warning: Be careful using electrics around water & melting ice & drips.
6. Below the cooling element, there is a drip channel & drain hole. If this hole is full of ice, pour a small amound of warm water down, leave for 10 seconds and pour a bit more until clear.
In the fridge, clear the drain hole in the same way.
Warning: Do not pour a lot of water down, as this water drains onto a tray above the hot compressor at the rear of the fridge freezer to be evaporated by the heat of the compressor and the tray will only hold a small amount.
7. When all ice is removed, dry all moisture. Put the shelves back. Close door. Turn on fridge freezer. Turn up the freezer temperature to your normal setting. Turn on fast freeze if available. After 1 hour, check with a thermometer. It should be cold enough after 1 or 2 hours.

Red light on for High Freezer Temperature Warning
or freezer not cooling, but fridge is and a lot of noise from compressor.
Also, fridge drain hole blocked, water in bottom of fridge.

This is a common fault in Hotpoint Fridge Freezers and can also happen if the door has been left open or has been a power cut.

1. Turn off fridge freezer, or at least turn down the freezer temp to minimum, though not ideal.
2. Open freezer door and remove all drawers.
3. Remove the back panel on the inside of the freezer. This is held in place with 4 screws, which might be 6mm hex head or star allen head. Pull the panel out.
4. Behind where the panel was, there is a cooling element for cooling, pipes, and below this a temperature sensor. If the fridge freezer is not switched off, then fold together a few layers of tinfoil and wrap around the sensor.
5. Use a hairdryer to slowly melt the ice. Melt it around areas where it appears to be hanging on, such as the corners of the cooling element or bolts, as well as any thin sections below the main block of ice around the cooling element, which will be supporting the main block. Use a plastic ice scraper to remove ice but not near pipes or sensor.
Warning: Be careful using electrics around water & melting ice & drips.
6. Below the cooling element, there is a drip channel & drain hole. If this hole is full of ice, pour a small amound of warm water down, leave for 10 seconds and pour a bit more until clear.
In the fridge, clear the drain hole in the same way.
Warning: Do not pour a lot of water down, as this water drains onto a tray above the hot compressor at the rear of the fridge freezer to be evaporated by the heat of the compressor and the tray will only hold a small amount.
7. When all ice is removed, dry all moisture. Put the shelves back. Close door. Turn on fridge freezer. Turn up the freezer temperature to your normal setting. Turn on fast freeze if available. After 1 hour, check with a thermometer. It should be cold enough after 1 or 2 hours.

try to clean the drain of your unit maybe it is clog up declog it to avoid drip. u said that ther is a build up of ice this means auto defrost not activate try to chek the defrost heater or defrost timer if have the unit this. or try to allign the door gasket possible theres a gap entry of outside air cause of build up of ice. bec it is came from moisture of air out side or avoid to much door opening.goodluck.

This sounds like clogged drain / hose in the freezer compartment, here's why:

When the defrost circuit turns on, the compressor turns off. The defrost coil melts frost that collects on the freezer coil and drips in to a small pan located below the coil. The pan is formed so that the water that drips in it can flow to a hose connected under it. When the defrost cycle completes. the compressor runs again, bringing the temperature in the freezer to about 0 again. Any water remaining anywhere in the freezer will turn to ice very quickly.

If the hose should become clogged with ice, or slowed by mold, bacteria, etc. - water flow will be slowed, and / or eventually stopped. Ice will become thicker and thicker on the floor of the freezer as there is no place for the water to go.

A service manual for the appliance would be a good idea, but may not be required. You'll need to unplug the freezer and empty the contents. Defrost manually with a hair dryer or other heat source. If you decide to chip away ice, do so carefully.

The defrost and drain area of most refrigerator / freezers are located behind the rear panel of the freezer compartment. This is where the manual would indicate where the parts are located. Remove any ice maker installed if needed to remove the back panel.

Defrost any ice previously hidden by the panel. Chipping ice here should be a last resort, as sharp edges can damage cooling coils, tubing and the drip pan itself. Use a turkey baster filled with hot water to direct a stream at the area of the pan filled with ice. Hot water will likely have to be directed down the opening on the pan to melt ice in the hose as well.

Once the ice is cleared, mix about a 10% to 20% solution of bleach and water (1/2 ounce bleach to 3 ounces water) and direct down the drain hose. This will kill and inhibit further growth of mold and bacteria in the hose, which should help it drain water quickly.

Re-assemble and plug into power.

I hope you found this Very Helpful. If you need more help, ask again - but include the freezer manufacturer's name and model number. Good luck!

I'm not sure if this will help but the freezer that is located on the bottom of my refrigerator started forming ice on the back part where the cold air was supposed to be coming out. I kept hearing a hissing sound like water dripping on a hot surface. I called the repair man in and he had to replace the defrost timer. Once he did that it worked like a charm.

I am not an expert by any means although removing ice from a frost-free freezer is a pain and this took care of the problem for me. Good luck!

try plugging the electric cord into a receptical

Remove the cover where the persons finger is and check to make sure that it is not covered with ice. Sounds like your machine iced oup and you will need to clean the coils and possibly replace the thermostat

Sounds like a blocked defrost drain. By "American" I presume you mean side-by-side.
I had a similar problem with a freezer-on-top style Samsung. The solution to that was to defrost the freezer, remove the false backing plate in the freezer (required removal of the ice cube tray. the panel just pops out with a bit of pulling). The drain hole beneath the freezer coils was blocked with ice. This drain passes down into the fridge and then out the back of the fridge into the evaporation pan next to the motor. There is a collector pan under the freezer coils, this and the drain hole were filled with ice. When the freezer goes into its self-defrost cycle the water collects here and then overflows into the fridge.
I removed the ice with hot water/vinegar mixture (so it doesn't re-freeze immediately) and simultaneosuly used a bit of chiselling with a screwdriver to clear the drain plug. I did this from inside the fridge working up the drain hole into the freezer. The whole job took about an hour.

sounds as tho you have an insulation breakdown. no repair except to refoam - and that is difficult to do