Kemore dryer model 65862 not heating. Replaced the heating element and verified that the thermastat is getting continuity.

Hello there and welcome to fixya

Here are the most common things that will need to be checked with a meter to ensure there is continuity on these parts no continuity means that the part is bad and needs replacement ok?

Thermal Fuse

If the dryer doesn't heat, but the drum turns, check the thermal fuse(s). The thermal fuse protects the dryer from overheating and helps to prevent fires. If the thermal fuse is blown, it will have to be replaced.


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Gas Valve Solenoid

The gas valve has two or more electric solenoids which open the valve to let the gas flow into the burner assembly. If the dryer doesn't heat one or more of the solenoids may be defective. If the igniter glows for 90 seconds but the burner flame doesn't light, replace these coils as a set.


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Dryer Igniter

If the dryer doesn't heat, the igniter might be burned out. Check the igniter for continuity with an ohm meter. Dryer igniters burn out over time, similar to a light bulb.


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Heating Element

The heating element on an electric dryer can burn out over time. If the dryer doesn't heat, the element should be checked for continuity. The heating element cannot be repaired and must be replaced if defective.


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Heating Element Assembly

The heating element assembly on an electric dryer can burn out over time. If the dryer doesn't heat, the element assembly should be checked for continuity. The heating element assembly cannot be repaired and must be replaced if defective.


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Flame Sensor

Gas dryers have a flame sensor to detect the heat given off by the flame. If the dryer doesn't heat, the flame sensor might be defective. Check the flame sensor for continuity. This is not as common as a burned out igniter or thermal fuse.


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High Limit Thermostat

Although not common, if the dryer doesn't heat the high limit thermostat can be defective. It can be checked for continuity. If the thermostat is "open" the dryer doesn't heat.


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Cycling Thermostat

The cycling thermostat regulates the temperature of the air in the dryer. If the dryer doesn't heat it may be caused by a defective cycling thermostat. This is not common.


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Main Control Board

The main control board is normally not at fault when the dryer doesn't heat. Check all of the other components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The main control board cannot be tested easily and must be replaced if it is defective.


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Timer

The timer is normally not at fault if the dryer doesn't heat. In many situations where timers are replaced they end up being returned. Check all of the more common components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer

Your dryer innards look like this

Their is usually a flap you can remove to get to the element.
It slides out after you remove a screw or 2 These videos show how to get into the dryer:
Older model:
Newer model:

More Here

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Both the high limit thermostat #3977767 and the operating thermostat #3387134 are normally closed switches and should have continuity. These thermostats are usually replaced as a set because when one fails its often caused damage to the other. The part # for the kit is 279816 and comes with both and is cheaper than if bought separate

Hello, There are a couple of variations of the heating element, depending on the series number of your dryer.

Here's a link to the parts list and line drawing so you can verify the proper element you need.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?modelNumber=SDE4606AYW&productCategoryId=0151200&brandId=3048&modelName=MAYTAG-LAUNDRY&diagramPageId=00005&componentDescription=REAR%20BLKHD,%20AIR%20DUCT,%20ROLLER&HTR%20(ELE)&documentId=M0510059&blt=06

If you have a Series 14 dryer, the element part number is #37001134, otherwise, there are a couple of other elements that your particular dryer might use, so check the model number and product tag so you can get the right parts.

You might want to check the element first, to make sure it is defective, before you order replacement parts, as it might be a faulty thermal fuse, which is much less expensive to replace than the heating element.

If you have a multimeter, you can check the fuse to see if it's failed. Be sure to turn the power off and unplug the dryer before removing the back access panel and checking the thermal fuse (see drawing in link above)

With the meter set to measure resisitance (Ohms) you can put a test lead on each side of the thermal fuse and if you get a reading showing no continuitity, then the thermal fuse is blown and needs to be replaced.

You can also check the heating element using the same method, again, make sure the dryer is unplugged before testing the continuity of the heating element, if you don't get a continuity reading, then the heating element is bad too.

I hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

check the thermal cut-off. it's on the element housing. when that goes out, the element will not heat up. good luck :) just check for continuity. it comes in a package with a new thermastat. replace both of them.

Test the outlet for 240V. If that's ok, you've already replaced the element so remove the wires from the thermostats and test them for continuity (you might want to test the element for continuity just in case). If that's ok, there might be a problem with the timer. Depending on the model you may be able to open it to verify.
If you're still having problems, post your model number and I'll try to assist you further.
Good luck!

There are a few things to check out. 1. This may seem obvious, but make sure your temperature switch is not pointed to "fluff/air dry".
2.Is the motor running? It has to, to dry three. Make sure your door switch is engaging properly.
3. If you are so inclined, unplug the power cord and remove the back lower panel of the dryer.) Remove the vent pipe & allow the unit to run, if you now have the proper heat this means the vent is block, check the outside vent hood, the sometimes have a screen just inside that will block up not allowing for air flow.


Check all wire connections to make sure they are attached properly. If they are burned or worn, they need to be repaired or replaced. Any disruption of the circuit to the dryer element will stop its functioning.
4. Next, look for the thermostat.. which is usually a small circular metal device attached to the dryer element canister. Unscrew it and shake it slightly. You should hear a clicking noise. This should indicate that your thermostat is working (but not always!).
5. Remove the heater element canister cover and check to see that there is continuity of the element wires (no breaks). If there is a break, it needs to be repaired of replaced. You can take the heater element to a repair shop and be tested for current. If you think that you can repair any of this on your own, then go for it. Always think safety first before proceeding

well the fact that hte heating elemnt is glowing tells me that all the thermstats are working, i would check for a blockage/restriction in the venting. looking at te diag, its possible that only 1 of the 2 coils for the heate are actually going on, check the coils for continuity( may be a small break that separates when gets hot)

I am sorry to hear this, my name is Marc White, i am self employed and it seems as though you have a bad timer, bad timer will cause the timer not to go to the off position and blow your fuse......change your timer..


thanks

I replaced the heating element and had the old one checked and had the thermastat's checked as well and it still does the same thing, will not blow hot air and will not cut off when cycle is supose to be finished, what should I do?