An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 20 achievements.
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Re: Lights will not go out when I close Kenmore elite...
It sounds like the doors need adjusted so that when they close , the hit the light switch . Try loosening the top hinge screws , and even up the doors by the side view of the refrig . Re tighten the screws , and check to see if the lights go off . May have to try several times , to get it properly adjusted .
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I had this problem also. My problem was that the drainage tube that keeps the refrigerator compartment dry was plugged up with the foil backing used in the freezer compartment. This foil backing is used to line the closed cell foam which insulates the defrost heat fins from coming in contact with the plastic back panel. It took a service call from a local repairman two times to unplug the line. We peeled off the foil lining which was the source of the plug.
This solution stopped the "door open"/"instant freeze" cycle sound. My fridge is about 6 years old.
All refrigerators have light switches, that depress and shut off the lights when the doors are closed.
First, make sure the bulbs are left out. I would replace all of the light switches because of the newness of the machine.
They are easy enough to replace, and you can purchase them at any appliance parts house or a Sears service facility.
They pry out, and may be destroyed on removal. Unplug the machine.
After connecting the wires, the new ones just push in.
To test, close the doors slowly. The lights should go out just before the door closes.
Some states have what is called "Implied warranty of serviceablity". Which means what should a consumer reasonably expect irregardless of the warranty limits.
You might want to contact Sears and express your opinions regarding this matter, and if they'll consider making you whole.
The above paragraph are my thoughts only. They in no way reflect the law, Sears policy or liability or this site's policy.
If I understand correctly, you have the bottom freezer with the two doors that open into the fresh food section. Also you have to open one of the two doors first in order to get into the fresh food section. If i ma correct. The switch on the door you have to open first to get into the fresh food section is bad. This is why it makes not difference if you hold both in. The switch on the second door does something else. You will need to replace the switch that the first. You can test this switch by, take the switch out. They are tricky to get out. Take a putty knife and slide it under one end of the switch, push in while you are prying outward. It should pop out. There should be three wires going to the switch. One of the wires is hot (110 Volts), one goes to the fan inside the fridge and the other goes to the light. (The switch operates like this. When you close the door, it turns the light off and the fan on. When you open the door, it turns the fan off and the light on.) Once you find out which one is hot, connect one of the others to it. If the fan comes on try connecting the hot to the other wire. The light in the fridge should turn off. If so replace the switch. I hope you can understand the way I tried to explain.
Please rate solution
this unit has a history of the light circuit failing and it will cause the lights to either stay on or off. if they stay on, it will melt the housing around the upper bulb area. it has a recall and should be covered by sears for no charge. it is the control board failure and has a sticking relay for the light circuit, needs board replaced. the 3 beeps are the unit thinking it has a door open. turn off the alarm on the door control board and call sears 800 # for repair.
My Kenmore Elite (Model 795.7755 3600), less than two years old, had
the same problem. One morning I opened the doors to a hot fridge and
burning plastic. The light housing was sizzling hot - much of the unit
literally melting away. Another hour or two and it could have been
Called the 1-800 number listed in the fridge. After about 45 minutes
of patient talking, I learned that Sears (or Kenmore) have issued what
they refer to as a "flash warranty) on the light fixture kit (Kit #
6871JB1423N) which in effect, for this part only, extends the factory
warranty from one year to three years. I may even be able to have a
factory tech install the parts. Hope it works out.
Bottom line: if you have this fridge, be very careful and monitor closely. An pursue the part warranty!
1. Remove the lower panel under the door by loosening the three screws under the bottom edge on the front of the washer. HINT: If you prop up the front feet of the washer with some small blocks of wood, this will make access to the screws much easier. 2. With the screws removed, the lower panel should drop down then come off. If the panel sticks, a light tap on either side will knock it loose. 3. Reach your hand up inside the washer behind the front casing on the right-hand side. This is where the door latch assembly is located. 4. At the bottom of the door latch assembly is a small pull tab. This is the manual release for the door. Pull the tab straight down and the door will come open.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.%^@#