With inhalation there seemed to be a brief stop in the air stream and some resistance. This happens regardless of how my second stage is tuned. I have had two other divers to try it and they both felt it was uncomfortable. its a scubapro X650. My octopus have no problem.

we all breath nitrogen ( atmosphere is 70% nitrogen) but to inhale nitrogen straight removes the oxygen from the lungs and blood stream
It is an extremely dangerous practice and if you do it again you will not be alive to ask fixya site a question

i would think the breather pipe on the front is getting blocked with the snow, and this will block of air getting into the engine you would need to make an extender and turn it round in the winter so that it get air coming in from the radiator side and not the front as you drive. or you could cut the old one in half and put a nother pipe the same size as the inner diameter of the pipe and in somer put it in normal position and in winter turn it around so it dont get the air from coming in from the font get from the back or ground side. this should stop snow building up in the breather.

You maybe should look into buying a air purifier that might help you and your cough.

the whistle noise is some thing loose (torn o-ring) inside the second stage. this is covered under warranty. scuba pro offers a parts for life program which is no cost to you if 1st & 2nd stage with a computer are bought at one time. just pay service labor. the whistle noise will be repaired are replaced free under 1 year.

The double snowflake means that the second stage cooling is on. (One snowflake indicates first stage cooling.) This gives a greater temperature change in extremely hot conditions with than you could get with a single cooling medium and drier air in your home.
From the patent: A two stage cooling system in which the first stage's cooling affect is transferred to the second stage through direct contact with an oil-like material. The oil-like material is cooled by direct contact with water which has been evaporatively cooled. The oil-like material is then utilized to cool the air stream prior to the second stage evaporative cooling. The use of an oil-like material in the first cooling stage of evaporative cooling allows a relatively dry air stream to be produced so as to fully capitalize upon the evaporative cooling affect of the second stage cooler.

The second stage comes on if your system hasn't reached the desired temperature at the thermostat within a programmed length of time (5 minutes is a usual setting). BTW: Your system also has two stage heating.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

The larger screw controls the pull weight, that is how many pounds weight on the trigger.

The front smaller screw controls the length of the first stage, whether you want a short first stage or a longer one.

The rear small screw controls the lenght of the second stage which can be reduced to zero.

Not certain what order you are doing it, so I will type a brief explanation:

With the radio turned OFF, hold in the PTT and the MON, while turning the radio on. Continue to hold the PTT and MON until the radio stops making noise. You are then in programming mode and can use the menu button to walk through the stages of programming.

An octo IS a regulator. There are two types or regulators on a typical scuba rig. Your first stage reg that is attached to your tank valve. From this first stage, there are hoses leading to your primary breathing second stage reg and your Octo second stage. The job of the first stage is to bring that possibly 3,000 psi air in the tank, down to a more reasonable pressure of about 150 psi. From there, the air goes to the second stages and can be reduced down further by these second stage, on demand (meaning it delivers air when you inhale and stops when you finnish inhaling), regs. The Octo is a second stage back up for a buddy that is out of air or if your own primary second stage ( the one you normally breathe from) is no longer functioning. Octos are generally ( not always) a cheaper reg, that may not have all the bells and whistles that a primary air source does. It's there for an emergency, so ease of breathing under load and tuning adjustments are minor. It gives you air when you're in a pinch, thats the important thing.

The scuba regulator is employed in an open-circuit scuba set. Said scuba equipment reduces high air pressure conveyed by the diving cylinder to the first stage and feeds breathable gas to the diver through the second stage's mouthpiece. Also called pressure regulator or demand regulator, the scuba equipment is one of the essentials to diving that determines breathing quality and inhalation effort during the dive. But given the different types of regulators and the pertinent design of its first and second stage components, how should a neophyte diver - or even a seasoned diver at that, choose a scuba regulator that incorporates user adjustment and delivers a venturi-assisted air flow in its features? Consider your diving purpose and frequency. Better yet, take note of the following criteria to guide you in your purchase: 1. The Scuba Regulator's Mouthpiece. Check the specifications if the regulator is outfitted with a patented orthodontic mouthpiece. This implies that it is ergonomically-designed to accommodate an overbite or underbite by the human mouth. An ergonomic mouthpiece helps reduce fatigue in the mouth and jaw area, particularly in the cruise of lower depths and extended dives. 2. User Adjustment Settings. There are optimally-designed scuba regulators that are outfitted with adjustment levers to therefore allow divers to finetune valve settings in order to provide the least possible inhalation effort throughout the dive. One notable scuba equipment is the Aeris AT 400 Pro Regulator that is equipped with an adjustable second stage. 3. Weight of the Scuba Regulator. Visualize yourself on a dive and using just any other type of scuba regulator. Is the regulator bulky to considerably increase drag and cause jaw fatigue or is it buoyant enough for you to carry around with your mouth? Lightweight scuba regulators use polycarbonate thermoplastics for its housing to make the scuba equipment compact, sturdy and corrosion-resistant that makes them fit for extended use. 4. Nitrox Compatibility. This entails an ocular inspection of the cylinder tank (Nitrogen and Oxygen proportions) and scuba regulator (Nitrox compatibility) specifications. As a matter of convention, most regulators are suited for nitrox mixture use out of the box; containing the standard, maximum proportion of 40% Oxygen (in terms of volume) but then again, there are gas mixes supporting leaner proportions of oxygen such as the trimix. Therefore, check if the scuba regulator supports the gas mixture configured for your diving cylinder prior to purchase. 5. No-Contaminant Feature. As much as possible, choose a diving regulator that has been manufactured using Dry Valve Technology (DVT). DVT operates through an automatic valve that prevents contamination of the first stage mechanism to thus prevent regulator flooding and the entry of moisture or dust particles. This likely improves scuba regulator performance and extends its useful life. 6. Air-Sharing Feature. This feature often associated with octopus regulators (used as a spare demand valve or alternate second stage) will prove to be most helpful during diving emergencies such as a free flow or during diver rescues. High performance octopus regulators such as the Aeris Gyro Octopus Regulator are designed lightweight and with air-sharing feature, while sporting an inline swivel for convenience mounting and flexibility

"The second stage regulator takes the manageable pressure coming from the 1st stage through the hose and delivers it to your mouthpiece in a way that is comfortable to breathe. Where the 1st stage is only concerned with letting air flow into the hose the 2nd stage has more complex machinery which handles both inhaling and exhaling through the same mouthpiece. Like the first stage the 2nd stage scuba regulator uses a diaphragm or piston to open a valve. Breathing in from the mouthpiece reduces the air pressure inside the chamber, water pressure pushes the diaphragm in, which opens the intake valve. When you stop inhaling the pressure in the chamber balances and the valve closes. The result is an air delivery system which supplies air only when you are inhaling and does not leak air constantly through the mouthpiece. A well balanced and well-maintained scuba regulator does its job so well that breathing feels natural and effortless despite the all mechanics involved. The second stage scuba regulator also has a purge or exhaust valve, which lets your exhaled air out of the chamber, but doesn't let water in. When you exhale into the second stage scuba regulator the pressure inside the chamber becomes greater than the ambient pressure. The exhaust valve is a simple one-way valve which lets this air escape. The second stage scuba regulator also has a purge or exhaust valve, which lets your exhaled air out of the chamber, but doesn't let water in. When you exhale into the second stage scuba regulator the pressure inside the chamber becomes greater than the ambient pressure. The exhaust valve is a simple one-way valve which lets this air escape. A second stage scuba regulator also has an ""emergency"" or ""purge"" button which forces the intake valve to open. When the purge button is pressed air will flow continuously into the chamber and escape either through the mouthpiece or the aforementioned exhaust valve"