- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
if your saying that the voltage drops to around 4 volts at the supply transformer at anytime , then id say the load (device connected) is too much for the transformer to supply this most likely is caused by an internal fault in the load (humidifier) also since its a water appliance id say a water leak might be a factor in that as well , taking a look under the cover of the humidifier 4 signs of a water leak (or past one) would be where id start
This occurs when either the float valve in the top of the water collection bucket is stuck in the UP position or the bucket was not installed properly, making contact with the bucket safety removal switch on the rear wall of the bucket holder.
Checking an correcting those 2 issue should solve the problem. Be sure to turn the unit OFF & unplug it before attempting corrective issues.
The de-humidifier is a niche product. Its only job is to remove
moisture from air to alleviate the problems of mould and mildew. It is
very similar in operation to a window air conditioner.
A dehumidifier though will add heat to the room, while an air conditioner will remove heat.
The de-humidifier is an appliance that requires regular maintenance.
This may be because it’s icing up, overflowing, not removing enough
moisture, or simply time for a good cleaning to maintain its
efficiency. If you don’t feel handy enough to attempt this project
contact your appliance repairperson.
The following is a step-by-step method used to return your de-humidifiers to its peak efficiency.
Tools required
1 Multi pocket container (old ice cube tray)
2 Long handled brush
3 Oil can
4 Rags
5 De-greaser or spray detergent
6 Selection of screwdrivers
7 New filter
1… Remove water collection bucket and put aside.
2… Remove the filter from rear of machine. Filer is usually within a
frame and simply pops out. If no filter proceed to next step. If it is
a disposable filter simply replace it with a new one. Other types are
made in a plastic frame and can be cleaned and reused. To clean a
filter lay it flat in the sink and sprinkle surface with powder laundry
detergent. Plug sink drain and turn on hot water. Cover filter with
enough water to submerge. Soak for 15 minutes. Remove from water and
rinse. Hang up to dry while proceeding to next step.
3… Remove the rear grille from the main body of de-humidifier. If none
proceed to next step. If there is resistance then look for hidden
screws. If grille locks into cover proceed to next step. Once removed
place the grille aside until later.
Tip: Dehumidifier may use different types and sizes of screws. Use ice cube tray to segregate.
4… Remove metal cover of de-humidifier to access inner workings. Cover
screws may be difficult to see because are often painted to match body
color. Usually two or three screws along each side of base. Once screws
are removed lift the cover straight up. Use extreme caution at this
point. Front grille may be secured to cover. Some fronts are put
together like a puzzle. Parts often interconnect or are screwed to one
another. If front grille lifts off with cover try to separate before
proceeding. Front grille may lock into groove along front edge of
cover. Avoid pulling off any wires from humidistat or indicator light.
5… When cover removed this will expose the heating and cooling coil.
They may appear as one but are actually two separate coils in very
close proximity. Both will need to be cleaned.
Use a narrow brush to remove surface dust and dirt from the front and
rear surfaces of coils. Use an up and down motion to avoid bending
fins. Area between two coils must also be cleaned. Use caution, the
fins are soft aluminum and can be easily damaged. Once surface dirt is
removed, spray with de-greaser or light cleaner. There is a good
product on the market called HVAC cleaner. As the name implies it is
meant for Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioner coil cleaning. If
this is not available Fantastic Spray cleaner used in kitchens and
bathrooms works quite well. Remove dirt and excess cleaner by slowly
pouring warm water into fins. Do not allow the water to enter any
electrical connections or components. As an added precaution cover the
motor with one of the cloth rags to protect it from the water.
6… With cover, rear grille, and front grilles removed locate fan motor
for oil holes. Add a few drops of oil to each end of the motor body.
Use a general purpose (3in1) oil or clean motor oil. A #30 oil is
sufficient. Three or four drops on both ends of the motor body are
sufficient. Add the oil slowly, pausing a few seconds between each
drop. If added too quickly over-lubrication will result.
7… Straighten any bent fins. Use a fin comb if available. If no fin
comb then use something soft such as a Popsicle stick. Straightening
the fins will increase the efficiency of the airflow through the coils.
Use caution as these coils are filled with high-pressure refrigerant.
8… Wipe any dirt from fan blade using a soft rag. Do not bend blades. This would cause a vibration that would harm the motor.
9… Vacuum all surfaces including front and back of grille assembly.
Vacuum underside of metal cover. Vacuum dirt buildup from base and any
other exposed surfaces.
10… Drain any water left in the base and allow it to dry.
11… When completely dry plug in and test operation. On some models
testing may require temporary override of bucket overflow switch. Test
that cooling coil begins to sweat water within few minutes of
operation. If everything appears okay unplug and reassemble. Insert
water collection bucket slowly to avoid damaging float switch mechanism.
In plain English, the Percentage setting on your de-humidifier is the percentage of moisture that you want to maintain in the air. Relative humidity level range from about 10% (VERY dry air) to almost 100% (VERY damp air). When relative humidity is 100%, water vapor in the air will turn into rain, condensation, dew, snow or frost. 50% humidity is usually a comfortable level, but that will also depend on air temperature. The more moisture there is in the air, the warmer it feels and conversely. Warm air will hold more moisture than cooler air.
Your body is cooled when moisture on your skin evaporates into the air, carrying body heat with it. As the humidity in the air rises, less of your body moisture is able to evaporate and thus your body feels wamer. Lower humidty allows moisture from your body to evaporate more quickly and you feel cooler, both at the exact same temperature.
Hi there - you have to vacuum the filter several times. You can pull it out of the back left hand side of the unit. Vacuum it several times, and then start the unit on the lower fan setting, at a humidity level of around 60%. It will kick in after a bit, and then you can start adjusting the humidity level to where you would normally use it.
Sometimes - after you have vacuumed the filter, it still doesn't work. I used my fingers to pick lint off the filter, and ran a BIC safety razor over it as well, to try and get more out of the filter. You can also wash the filter in warm water, and leave it to dry over night. Don't put it back in until it's completely dry.
×