7 year old model shp65t55uc. With door open (place a magnet left of latch on door), I see that the lower spray arm is getting water but water height is maybe 6 inches and comes out like the school water fountain instead of being higher pressurized. There is no water getting to the top spray arm. Interestingly enough, the sprinkler head attached at the very top is working full blast. I just replaced the water inlet to no avail. I also have brand new filters and spray arm attachments. I replaced the circulation motor/heater 4 months ago so it should be okay still. I have checked for debris and clogs. My question is which of the following do you experts think is the possible culprit? Or maybe it's a part that I'm not aware of? 1. Diverter Valve (00751950) 2. Drain Pump (00631200) 3. Spray Arm Water Supply Tube (11018097) 4. Circulation/Heat Pump, again (12008381) Thank you
You never mentioned anything about dirty dishes not getting clean. Run a load and let it go and tell us the results.
When I run a load it's the usual issues - pod not dissolving, top rack dishes dirty, bottom rack semi clean but not like before.
I want to add that this all started after I replaced the float switch due to an e05 error which went away. Not sure if it's related or coincidental.
It sounds like not enough water to keep a circulation going. Where is the water line? If you listen carefully you can tell if the pump is drawing in water and then air. If this is the problem, you will experience everything you mentioned.
I have rigged the washer so it can run with the door open. The water line is above the top of the filter and just below the door seal. I have also tried to add more water as some youtube video suggested but it didn't help. I have already replaced the water inlet and the heat/circulation pump so those shouldn't be the problem.
I think I may have a stuck diverter. But how do I inspect that component to make sure before ordering?
How many items have you already replaced? 5?
Just updating this thread to report that I ended up fixing the issue!!! Here is a summary recap of all the things I learned/did for future homeowners.
*** Symptom ***
7 year old dishwasher, detergent pod not dissolving. No error code shown
*** AppliancePartsPro.com ***
For those that don't know, this website has detailed diagrams of thousands of appliances (here's mine -https://www.appliancepartspros.com/pump-... labeled so you can easily identify and order the right part. They also have a very active Questions & Answers section where you can ask questions and get responses from the staff. When I was far along enough to form a specific question, I asked it and got a response that helped me tremendously.
*** Diagnostic steps ***
1. Turned on water heater to near max setting, run hot water from faucet, confirmed temperature of hot water going into dishwasher is > 120 degrees using meat thermometer
2. Bought Lemi Shine Dish Detergent Booster and ran a cycle
3. Checked filters. They were really clean, possibly due to Lemi Shine. I did find that a plastic piece had broken off and replaced it - 645038 Bosch Appliance Filter Micro - $22
4. Inspected water inlet valve. Again it was really clean (Lemi Shine??). Since I had it removed I replaced it - $22
5. Checked water levels and checked both spray arms to see if they are moving. A lot of videos on how to do both if you google/youtube. For spray arm, videos say place them in a certain position, run the dishwasher, and then check to see if they moved. This worked but I wanted to see for myself. Ended up figuring out how to start the dishwasher without closing the door. From videos looked like most models just require jamming a screwdriver into the latch. For my specific model, I needed to place a magnet next to the latch to trigger instead. That took forever to figure out on my own. Just be careful to put something in the way of the lower arm so it doesn't spray and get water everywhere. Confirmed water level is fine, top spray arm not moving and bottom spray arm getting weak water jets
6. Noticed my top spray arm apparatus connector to the dishwasher was really worn out. Replaced BOSCH 00745856 Dishwasher Spray Arm, Upper - $35
7. At this point only 4 main pieces of the dishwasher were not tested - drain pump, heat/circulation pump, controller, diverter
8. Drain pump didn't make sense since I had no problems with draining the water. The heat/circulation pump I replaced a year ago for $104. So it was down to the controller or the diverter
9. I asked a question on Appliancepartspros and they suggested testing continuity of the diverter motor. You can find videos on how to do test continuity of any electrical device using a multimeter
10. Viola, my diverter motor failed the test. I ordered Diverter Valve 0075190 - $50
11. This part was hardest to replace. There was no instructional video on this save this one I found -https://youtu.be/giH191mUWP8. The new part was also hard to put back on, nothing like that video. I ended up using the original gasket instead of the new one that came with the diverter because it was "squished" already and allowed me to screw in the new diverter.
12. Once the Diverter was replaced everything ran like a charm.
*** Final Thoughts ***
Total cost came out to be $120. Every part I replaced took less than 30 minutes except the diverter valve. It starts to go really quick once you get the hang of it.
The scariest part was spending money on an old dishwasher without knowing if in the end I have to purchase a new unit anyways. I like tinkering though so it became more of a hobby.
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