Hi, I really wish somebody can help me on this before I dump few hundreds of euros for Miele's service fees plus potential parts. Our dishwasher G1142 stopped working and shows flashing errors for three indicators (Wash/Rinse, Drying, End) When I opened the door, I can see drain pump is running non stop. I have cleaned all the recommended parts and I can see the water is pumped out from outer drain pipe when I add extra water. I added rinse aid and boiled water to the bottom tray and left for a while to see if that helps: no... I also tried to reset control panel following the method which instruction manual says, without success. Any help is greatly appreciated.
That sounds like the Leak Sensor is activated because the pump is running constantly. There is a pan underneath the machine just above the floor. If the sensor is tripped, it makes the lights flash and the pump runs to empty the machine.
https://www.google.com/search?q=miele+g1142+three+lights+blinking&
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Testimonial: "Thank you very much for taking time for helping me out. This is very helpful and I will see later today."
You are very welcome :>D
I opened 'metal window' of front bottom of the machine and I can see there is water leak with which white styrofoam floats and activate the sensor.....is this what you meant with Leak Sensor is activated?
Assuming that is correct, I am now trying to dry the dip pan as much as possible to see that will make a difference.
I still need to find out where the actual leak is. For that I assume I need to take the machine out from the kitchen unit and take dip pan out by unscrewing four screws then test. Is it correct?
Yes correct, I am pleased you found it. Find the leak and fix it, dry up all the water and you will be fine. Dry it, run it, pull the machine out and lie it on its back, and you will see where the water came from. $300 saved. :>D
Thank you very much for confirming my assumption. I will first dry things up even over night and start from there. I can feel more like saving some hundreds now.
After drying overnight I run a quick wash. Now no error, just running properly. Many many thanks again for your advise! I though need to find the leak itself over coming weeks….
Great news indeed, and you are very welcome. If you are lucky, it will be a loose hose clamp somewhere that just needs tightening or reseating.
Thank you very much for your advise. I will check it when I will open the lid.
Please help me Sir , I have the same problem with ariston old model , but don't know where that pan or dip is , is it beneath the dishwasher or inside it
Nay Nosh. It is above the floor and below the sump of the machine, (the base part you see inside). The pan catches water from the wash pump, drain pump and any leaking hoses and turns off the machine to save further leakage.
Excuse me sir , this is the interior of the machine would you kindly point wich part should I inspect .
Not inside, close the door, under there and above the floor of the room there is a pan, like a baking tray with sides
There's only this part outside , it doesn't open and I think it's fixed, no screws , how can I remove it ? I'm afraid I might break something 
Sorry to bother you Sir , but I don't know much about this is stuff and can't afford a technician at the time
Pull the machine right out. You may be able to access from the back The piece at the bottom front is called a 'kick plate' and usually has a couple of screws underneath.
this is the sideview 
Interesting, that panel looks like it is removable. There are always ways in to replace parts. If I had to guess, I would say that is the access to the Drain Pump. Do you know the model number for your Ariston?
I managed to open the dip pan and even without running the dishwasher I found a dripping just start of the drain pipe. Due to high limescale in the water system, the outside pipe, clip and plastic body had gathered considerable amount of limescale.
I cleaned all up and put things back. It still drips. The pipe is clean but it has strong mark of clips grip. I am assuming that the clip is not holding the pipe strong enough now.
Please see the attached photo.
What can I do now? Should I buy replacement clip or should I cut the pipe end to give it a fresh grip? I am afraid cutting pipe will make whole length short to fit in properly.
Your advise is appreciated.
I also found a hairline crack on plastic just above water outlet…
Hello Yasu. That type of clip are not good. They use them because they are cheap and fast to fit on a production line. Get a proper hose clamp that grips all the way around.
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/plumb...
For the hairline crack, it you can clean the area and dry it well, this stuff is amazing.
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/jb-we...
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Thank you very much Andrew for your advise.
I found one like that hose clamp in the garage and now in place.
I have used JB stuff, so I will try to source your recommended one.
I will keep you updated.
I will do my best to avoid asking for service.
Thank you very much again for your help.
You are most welcome. I keep epoxy putty in stock all the time and have fixed many thing with it. I also keep Superglue Gel in the fridge and a roll of duct tape in the garage and you can fix anything.
I also teach English as I am British
You asked for advice. I advised you as an advisor. Advice - add-v-ice (ice frozen water). Advise - add-v-eyes. The difference between the 'c' and the 's'. :>) A numerologist once told me, "you are trying to teach the world, one person at a time". So true.
I didn’t expect having a clue on language too on this website, thank you!
You are very welcome, I multitask :>D I don't do it often and hoped you wouldn't be offended.
Absolutely not!
Pleased to hear it. How about 'then and 'than', or their, there, they're? :>D
I notice even native speakers mess around than and that…..
One I see here all the time on Fixya by American natives is "My car want start'. (won't start), a contraction of will not).
The easy way to remember 'then and than', then is a moment in time, than is a comparison of one thing and another.
My mother was a career secretary and a Fellow of the Institute of Qualified Private Secretaries, one of only 11 in the whole of the UK. She was teaching me the finer points of English into my late 30s. I am 70 now. I used to own a hotel and one day she saw that I indented each line of the address on a letter as I was taught at school. She said "Andrew, we stopped that over 5 years ago, we left justify addresses now". :>)
Old habit never dies!
‘nough about language talk! : )
I managed to order the suggested product.
For preparing for application, I cleaned the area more and observed the leak while the dishwasher runs in full swing.
The drain pipe still leaks, so I think I need to buy narrower hose clip to grip properly.
The hairline crack may be pin hole crack, or maybe the joint where two plastic meets has a bit of gap (how? Over years’ of pressure and limescale?). Please see the photo attached. Or the water comes even from higher above. It’s hard to see, but I think it does not come from higher part as the shape of the drip is uniform and comes from the same place.
That looks like a droplet of water just below that solenoid valve. Your hose clip looks well applied and those clips really grip well. I was looking for a good parts schematic but can't find one. They appear to be sold in Australia, Ireland and the UK. I am in Canada, so my search results might be a bit different. If plastic parts are brittle, split or holed, they aren't going to improve so are better replaced.
https://www.google.com/search?q=miele+g1...
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Thank you very much for your advice.
The hose does look grip well but leaks still….
Do you think I should try JP product anyway or replace the whole part?
I am not confident enough to replace the part so I may need to use this service from Miele.https://www.miele.ie/c/faq-fixed-price-r...
In that case, I probably even should not try to apply glue, showing my attempt.
Personally I feel like saying ‘I tried to find and fix the problem by myself but couldn’t in the end, thus asking for professional service, what is the problem about it?’.
Are you able to replace that length of hose for a new piece? It looks like standard washing machine hose? Make sure the drip from above isn't making it look like that blue hose clamp is leaking.
Yes, if you can find the leak, you can still use JB weld. It won't make any difference to a service engineer. That fixed cost repair looks to be a good option, if you do have to get them out.
Are you married Yasu? The last time I had this much interaction with a Fixya question, I flew from Canada to the U.K. to meet her in 2018, and 19 (twice) cancelled 2020 for Covid and I saw her again in September 2022 for a day out and dinner twice.
I think I could try to replace the full length of hose but as far as it is cut straight in the end I find no need to change whole lot.
I will try to use jb first. Miele confirmed they can provide me with their fixed cost repair even after my attempt.
Yes I am married and my wife is the one putting pressure on me sorting this out : )
By the way jb could be useful for another issue. Copper main water pipe has a crack so I may apply there after drying it.
Ah, I wasn't familiar with the name. I thought I was chatting up a female :>D
Yes if the pipe is long enough, and you have enough play to cut it back an inch, you could try that.
JB Weld will easily fix a cracked water pipe. Is is leaking all the time? Weeping or a pin hole spray? Water pipes wear from the inside and impurities in the copper dissolve. I had a pinhole leak in a pipe in my own accommodation at my hotel. It happened on Christmas Day cooking dinner. I turned off the water, dried the area and put epoxy putty around it, and a couple of tight wraps of electrical tape. Once the test blob had cured, I turned on the water and the leak was fixed. I didn't get it fixed until about 3 months later.
Another possibility is the Sharkbite joiner. Cut out a 2 inch section and it is a press fit. I had an outside tap upstand pipe split in winter and this worked a treat.
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/sharkbi...
hoping you get all this sorted, Happy wife = Happy Life.
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The main water leak is constant. It is a split crack and it is getting wider.
I hope jb will sort it out as it is outside tap and short, so that a shark bite would not bite….
Thank you very much for your suggestions again!
Ah, an outside tap that comes straight out of the wall. Mine was like that. I didn't like it as it was 6" off the ground, so very awkward. I de-soldered the tap (copper tube soldered to the inside of where the threads were) and added a fitting that had a screw fitting to put tap back in but also a plain hole in the top of the fitting to solder an upstand copper pipe. On the top I put a threaded elbow that I fixed to a block on the wall. I screwed a new tap into that. Now I have a low level tap with a short hose for filling the watering can and an upper tap connected to the hose reel. In winter, I turn off the water inside and I open the top and bottom tap a little and it drains and remains dry. I insulated the upstand with a length of tubular foam insulation and taped it.
The best way for you to fix yours is to cut the pipe inside and run a new piece, pull from outside and push a new length of tube in. Solder inside or use a Sharkbite. I asked a plumber fitting a boiler to my neigbour's house if he had ever known one fail? He said he had fitted thousands and in 6 years not one ever failed.
I applied JB for both dishwasher and outside tap.
I gave both plenty of time to dry.
I haven’t tested dishwasher yet.
Outside tap still leaks, coming from wall end.
Do you mean I pull old pipe and insert new?
The current one is branched out using T-joint from tap pipe for utility sink.
Hopefully not a big job. Or I asked my plumber to fix it because he is the one who over tightened the outside tap, although pipe itself would have been eroded anyhow…
The trick with JB Weld products is to keep a small piece of the mix as a tester to check the cure.
Yes replace all the outside pipe from the T-Joint. It is surprising how thin copper pipe can become with age. There are three different qualities of tube and the difference is the thickness of the tube metal.
Thank you very much for your help again.
I just had a look at below and behind the kitchen unit of pipe tee joint.
It’s close to wall and it seems tricky to re-join tee.
I may need to cut existing pipe wide and introduce new flex pipe or something.
Or just need to wait for the plumber…..
I love trying to solve problems by myself but I can get too tired and stressed when it doesn’t got solved….
Well you could wait for the plumber, or you de-solder the T and pull the whole lot forward. Add the new pipe to the outside, re-solder the T and you just have to fix the tap. Use an outside fitting that has an octagonal rear so you can hold it with grips / spanner / wrench as you tighten the tap. Don't go cheap on fitting. Taps that just fit to the end of the tube are not the best idea. A Back Plate Elbow is what I have as the upper fixing. "Do it once, do it right".
https://www.google.com/search?q=outside+...
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Thank you very much for yet another great idea.
De solder, is the answer then! I need to learn how now.
Tap just fit to the end of the tube is what I have now : )
Soldering is easy and very enjoyable. There is a video here, but in the thumbnail it shows him holding the pipe with the grips and you can see they are black from heat. Don't do that, as it will ruin the heat treatment in the jaws of the grips. Heat the pipe, grab the fitting and twist it off.
De-soldering
https://www.google.com/search?q=removing...
Disconnect and re-use fittings
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IeoHcbMI...
Soldering fitting is just a matter or cleaning with steel wool or abrasive emery paper, apply flux paste, put the fitting together, heat with a gas torch and run solder into the joint until you get a nice even glistening ring of solder. Done. Buy a couple of fitting and practice if you like. Put 90' Elbow on the outside and use a backplate elbow for the tap. That works great as long as you have a stop tap to turn the water off to the tap in winter, and then open the outside tap so the water can expand if it freezes. The benefit of my system is that I have two taps and use the bottom one as a drain in the winter.
https://www.google.com/search?q=solderin...
Some fittings come with a ready soldered ring inside and in England are called 'Yorkshire fittings'. Literally you just heat them up until the solder flows.
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Many thanks for all these useful tips and ideas.
If I decide to do it by myself, I shall practice first.
Thank you very much again.
Dishwasher test failed. Still it leaks. I have given up now, as I think the leak is above reachable area. I have asked Miele service, and I will report back the result.
Andrew, many thanks again for your help so far.
Yes, that is the best plan now. They will pull it out and strip the side panels to find it or access from behind. In many cases they will know what it is already from previous failures.
And you are very welcome, let me know :>)
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Based on the information you have provided, it seems that your Miele dishwasher is experiencing a drain pump issue, which could be causing the flashing lights and the non-stop running of the pump. Here are a few troubleshooting steps you can try:
It's important to note that attempting to repair appliances yourself can be dangerous, and you should always follow safety procedures and consult with a professional if you're unsure of how to proceed.
Testimonial: "Thank you very much for taking time to help me on this matter, It may be drain pump fault, but it is pumping out the water no problem...... I may try other person's advise on Leak sensor."
It is not a drain pump issue, the pump is running just fine. Our friend here is new and is tending to guess and 'waffle' and state things that are totally irrelevant.
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