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I replaced my HV control board on my Maytag MFI2067AES and programmed the code from my refrigerator but the code is not being saved. Do I have the wrong board?

Posted by ADLYNE GRIFFITJ on

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0helpful
1answer

Mfi2067aes digital display is dark

I think that that may be caused by a defective 67006294 Dispenser Control Board. .. Item location 13 in this PHOTO. I am here should you have questions, Thanks John T. Appliance 911
0helpful
1answer

Maytag programming code for HV Board.

One indirect way is to buy online a replacement board wich comes with the code. Use the code. Return the board for a credit. Make sure you can get a return credit before opting this way.
0helpful
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I replaced my HV Control Board on my maytag

First did you program the board correctly and second make sure all the connections to the board you replaced are in correctly. 
4helpful
1answer

Programming hv board

I have the same Maytage MFI2568AEB on the inside top left of the refrigerator the code is 0302, i still cannot enter the code, showing PEO OOO.
0helpful
3answers

Mayteg refirgerator

French Door “ICE-2-0” Bottom Mount
Freezer Refrigerators with
Ice & Water Dispenser
Maytag Models: MFI2568AEB MFI2568AEQ MFI2568AEW MFI2568AES MFI2067AEB
MFI2067AEQ MFI2067AES MFI2067AEW
Amana Models: AFI2568AEB AFI2568AEQ AFI2568AES AFI2568AEW
cusTOMeR COMPLAINT:
Ice dispenser door continually opens and closes and/or user display flashes on and off intermittently.
cause:
Power supply circuit on high voltage control board may fail.
cORECTION:
Order and install high voltage control board kit PN 12920710. The kit includes; control board, installation and programming
instructions, return label and card for the old part.
Note: As with all Refrigerators of this type, the correct “Personality Code” must be programmed into the new control board
per the instruction sheet provided.
14helpful
3answers

How do i reprogram my HV board?

HERE TIS RIGHT OFF THE INSTRUCTION SHEET.  THE TECH JUST LEFT. POWER UP REF. PROGRAM CODE IS LOCATED ON SERIAL PLATE ON THIS UNIT AFTER THE WORD CODE.-1. PRESS & HOLD THE DOOR ALARM KEYPAD.-2. PRESS & HOLD FREEZER TEMP DOWN KEYPAD.-3. RELEASE DOOR ALARM KEYPAD AND WAIT 3 SECS.-4.CONTROL WILL DISPLAY PE TO INDICATE PROGRAMMING MODE-5. ENTRY IS CONFIRMED BY PRESSING TEMP DOWN - KEYPAD ONCE MORE.-CONTROL WILL DISPLAY CURRENT PROGRAM CODE. THIS VALUE SHOULD BE VALIDATED THE THE PROGRAM CODE PRINTED ON UNIT SERIAL PLATE.-NOTE: IF PROGRAM CODE IS CORRECT, THE PROGRAMMING MODE IS EXITED BY CLOSING THE FRIG DOOR.-7.PRESS REFRIG TEMP UP KEYPAD + OR REFRIG DOWN KEYPAD -TO CHANGE THE DIGIT VALUE WITH EACH KEY PRESS.-8.THE DECIMAL POINT INDICATES THE SELECTED DIGIT. PRESS THE FREEZER TEMP UP KEYPAD + TO SELECT NEXT DIGIT.-9.ONCE DEIRED PROGRAM CODE IS DISPLAYED, PRESS AND HOLD THE FREZZER TEMP DOWN KEYPAD - UNTIL UNIT PROGRAM CODE BEGINS FLASHING INDICATING IT HAS BEEN SAVED. *note* IF YOU ATTEMPT TO ENTER AN INVALID PROGRAM CODE, THE CONTROL WILL NOT SAVE THE NEW CODE, BUT WILL BEEP! (THE UNIT WILL NOT RUN RUN WITH A UNIT PROGRAM CODE OF 0000). ONCE THE PROGRAM CODE HAS BEEN SAVED THE PROGRAMMING MODE IS EXITED BY CLOSING THE FRIG DOORS. 
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5answers

FRONT DISPLAY SHOWS (PE0-000)

Usually the owners manual would show the error codes so check there first. As for the compressor running, it "should" be cooling if the compressor is running. But lets go back a little, why was the HV board replaced?
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Maytag Side by Side RSW22EO Refidgerator Freezer , not cold enough. I have a older Maytag (Model No. RSW22EO) Refrigerator/Freezer that uses "R-12 Refrigerant". 3 days ago I noticed it was not keeping things as cold as usual. I tried setting the temperature adjustments to their lowest setting and checked back 24 hours later, and while it did get the freezer to keep things somewhat frozen, both sides (fridge and freezer) are certainly not getting cold enough. I have not checked actual temperatures, ( as I don't have a thermometer), but it is obvious it is not working properly. I pulled the fridge away from the wall and checked to see if dust had excessively accumulated on the radiator and condenser, but since I blow it out yearly, there was very minimal dust accumulation. To my novice ears and eyes, the compressor and fan appear to be working properly, but I can only attest to compressor having a slight vibration and the fan is spinning, but of coarse, that does not meant they are actually functioning at peak performance. My guess is it is low on R-12 Refrigerant, which will require a professional with a EPA 602 license, not to mention limited availability and the ridiculous cost of R-12 refrigerant. If you have any suggestions on how to troubleshoot the problem, I would be very grateful. I have only a basic multi-meter for electrical testing, and I do not have any means or skill to test refrigerant levels. REPAIR PROCESS: Well, since no one had an answer, I thought I would give an update: well, the problem got progressively worse as the freeze was now unable to keep things frozen and the fridge side was not cold at all, so I decided to tear into the project and see what I could find. DISASSEMBLY: To gain access to the parts, I needed to get into the back of the freezer from inside of the freezer compartment. First I removed all the wire basket drawers from the freezer compartment, then I unscrewed the drawer guides from each side of the freezer's inner side walls (these are held in place with two 1/4 inch hex drive screws per rail), Next I removed the Ice maker's plastic bin (actually, I removed this years ago so I cannot recall how I got it out, but I think it just pulls out without any fasteners, but don't quote me on that). Located near the top of the freezer compartment's back wall is a rectangular housing that has the light and the ice maker's motor, this has to be removed as well. It is held in place by 6 stainless Phillips screws (2 on each side and two more along the top edge). Note, to be able to access these fasteners you will need to carefully remove the light's diffuser lens by slightly compressing it to get the tabs on the top and bottom edges to release from the slots (there are not any fasteners in the light lens, and also unscrew and remove the light bulb. Then you should be able to tilt forward/downward the light/motor housing and wiggle it out, but if you cannot get it to come out, you will likely need to remove the entire ice-maker and the panel above the housing we are trying to remove. I was able to get it out, so I did not remove any other parts thus far. Next there are 7 stainless Phillips screws holding in the main back panel (that covers up the condenser coils), 3 screws on each side and 1 centered at the top. Once the screws are removed, simply grab the panel at the top edge, lift it about an inch or two, and then pull it out towards the front, and set aside. DIAGNOSING: Well it became immediately apparent what the problem was, since both the upper and lower condenser coils were completely frozen and frosted over. It was not thawing out as it should. Near the top is a black round thermostat with two wire leads ( one white wire, one blue wire), so before defrosting the freezer, I unplugged the fridge from the wall outlet, and using a multi-meter i tested the thermostat for continuity between the wire leads. Note: this must be done when the temperature on the Thermostat is between 25 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. If you cannot test it in the freezer, remove it and stick it in a different freezer before testing. Well, my thermostat was fried, but that was not the only problem... There are two heating elements (glass tubes with spring like heating coils sealed inside), which are located below each condenser coil. one is in the middle and the other is at the bottom just above the drain pan/funnel. Eack one is held in with two 1/4 inch hex drive screws. you may need to bend the metal on each side of the freezer to get the heater assemblies out. Prior to removal. you an test the continuity of the heating elements by tracing the thicker wires back to the jumper-board next to and to the right of the thermostat. Disconnect the spade connectors of these wires and test for continuity. My continuity test failed, so these need to be replaced also. Since these marts are useless, and the wiring connecting the heating elements was entrapped in the condenser coils, I just cut the wires and pulled them out. Upon further inspection, it was clear one of the coil-spring heating elements inside the glass tube had a beak in the middle, and each tube lost it;s seal allowing moisture to enter the glass tubes of the heating elements. I am awaiting parts, but once installed, I am confident the freezer will go into it's scheduled defrost cycles as expected, and all will be working as it should. The only other thing that could have failed would be the defrost timer, but I am not sure where that is or how to test it. I read it may be located behind the front grill below the doors, or it is inside the fridge side near the temperature controls. CONCLUSION: To be determined after I replace the failed parts.... .

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