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Electrolux RM4271 service manual?

Operation switch continues to flash after gas has ignited and fridge is cooling

Posted by Ken Spong on

  • Ken Spong
    Ken Spong Nov 30, 2022

    Hello Jonalyn, thank you for your response. Unfortunately this does not address the issue.
    The RM4271 model fridge has a gas igniter switch which operates when it is switched on, and the light is extinguished when the gas lights - in normal operation.
    My problem is that when I switch the gas switch to "on" position and the gas lights, the light switch does not stop flashing and trying to light the already burning gas.
    I saw a possible solution in another fixya Question/Answer and I will need to open the back of the fridge to check the position of the igniter - hence my hope of getting access to a manual that will describe the igniter position and setting.



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Hi I have a domestic rm3862 refrigerator and it will not cool on gas or elect we replace the elect board and still don't work it get hot not cold

Evaporation fridges are normally reliable and have the advantage of being silent. There is no compressor but there is a heating element that should cause the gas to circulate. Under normal circumstances the fridge thermostat should switch off the heating element when the interior is cold enough and the subsequent heating cycles will be so short the heat will not disrupt the fridge operation.

If the fridge is not cooling the thermostat will not switch off the heater and eventually it will begin to warm the interior.

It will not cool if there is insufficient refrigerant.
It will not cool if there is no refrigerant gas.
In this case it will be because a leak has allowed it to escape.

It will not cool if the refrigerant has settled away from the heating element. This happens sometimes if the fridge has been unused for a time or transported in a non-upright way.

It sounds odd but years ago we had a large American Electrolux evaporation type fridge that was unused for a while and would not work. We were told to take it outside and to spend an hour tipping it over and over. We did this and when we plugged it in it began to work like a brand new fridge even though at that time it was nearly 30 years old...

It was still working when we gave it away five years later.

Electrolux DFF44 Refrigerator not cooling properly. High Temperature Freezer light constantly on. Bought around 8 years back. compressor is also not working ..

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If there is no cooling at all , before we go further we must confirm the first step of confirming the compressor and gas pressure. So shut off the fridge and leave it off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge. If there is no ice formation we have a big issue as the compressor and gas must be checked out. If compressor is running check the pressure, get help to test gas pressure. If not you will need to fill up ,If gas pressure is good the possibility of the compressor being inefficient is high. In such a case you must take consensus to estimate and decide, if RPM of motor is low check capacitor.
However if Ice forms then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off. If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked.

The ventilation fan that circulates the COLD air from the evaporator coils could get clogged with frost and so could be jammed. Also the wires to the fan can be worn out due to the frost. If so check if the defrost timer works to switch the heater to remove the frost. Also the check if the compressor is shut down by the timer /thermostat . If the heaters are not working, check continuity of the heaters.
So attempt to test using a multi-meter / clamp tester from the outside and make your observations so that we come to the solution.

Please check this link for tips to work.

Thank you for using Fixya.



Hello, here is the manual: -

Also found this site with a list of parts for the fridge you mentioned

Hope this helps, good luck

Our Dometic RM2652 RV frig has 2 yellow lights on which are indicated to be alert lights. The frig/freezer seem to be working fine.......????? Is something about to go out on it?

The 2 yellow lites... if you would... Is there and indication by description of what those 2 lights are?

Here are the modes:



Press the AUTO/MANUAL mode selector button (2) to the DOWN position. The AUTO mode indicator lamp (A) will illuminate.

When operating in the AUTO mode, the AUTO mode indicator lamp (A) will illuminate. The control system will automatically select between AC and GAS operation with AC having priority over GAS. If the control system is operating on AC energy and it then becomes unavailable, the system will automatically switch to

GAS. As soon as AC becomes available again the control will switch back to AC operation.

If 120 volts AC is not available, the control system will automatically switch to GAS operation. Within 45 seconds the burner should be ignited and operating normally. If unsuccessful, the CHECK indicator lamp (B) will illuminate.

To restart an ignition attempt with the CHECK lamp illuminated or to clear (turn off) the CHECK lamp, press the main power ON/OFF button to the OFF and then to the ON position. The control system will attempt a new 45 second ignition sequence.

On the initial refrigerator start-up on gas (120 volts AC is not available), it may take longer than 45 seconds to allow air to be purged from the gas line. If the refrigerator has not been used for a long time or the LP tanks have just been refilled, air may be trapped in the supply lines. To purge the air from the lines may require resetting the main power ON/OFF button (1) three of four times. If repeated attempts fail to start the LP gas operation, check to make sure that the LP gas supply tanks are not empty and all manual shutoff valves in the lines are open.

NOTE: DO NOT continue to reset GAS operation if the CHECK indicator lamp continues to be illuminated after 3 or 4 tries.

If 120 volts AC becomes available while the CHECK indicator lamp is on, the control system will switch to 120 volt AC operation, The CHECK lamp will not turn off until the main power ON/OFF button is pressed to the OFF then ON position.

In AUTO mode operation, the temperature is controlled by a single temperature setting.


When operating in the MANUAL mode, the AUTO mode indicator lamp (A) will be off, and the refrigerator will run continuously on the energy source selected by the control system.

NOTE: The food in the lower compartment may be frozen if the refrigerator is left on "MANUAL" mode.


This control system contains a feature that will continue to operate the cooling system in the event of a failure of a major operating component. If the control cannot read the temperature sensor and operate at the preset temperature, then the control will run the cooling unit like the MANUAL mode.The refrigerator will continue to operate in this mode indefinitely or until a new sensor is installed and the
system is reset.

I posted the above information from the contents of the service manual. I can help you but... at the moment for sure I have come to the conclusion that ONE of the lights your seeing is the CHECK light. The mystery is... what is the 2nd light your seeing? Manual of Stand-by?

I am pretty sure we can sort this out but... we need to really communicate clearly and well. In our posts here.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,


Fridge in VW camper van



Igniting a Dometic gas fridge
    Electronic Ignition
    1. Open gas cylinder or pressure regulating valve
    2. Turn on Electronic ignitor switch
    3. Turn gas control knob to the MAX position, press and hold down
    4. After ignition, hold down knob for a further 15 seconds before releasing. The neon light will stop flashing
    Piezo Ignition
    1. Open gas cylinder or pressure regulating valve
    2. Turn gas control knob to the MAX position, press and hold down
    3. After approximately 10-15 seconds
      press Piezo knob several times until pilot light a lit
    4. After ignition, hold down knob for a further 15 seconds before releasing
  1. Check the Pilot light is alight
  2. The flame can be controlled by aperture ©
    Should no ignition occur, repeat the ignition process after 1 minute
    (This could take longer than 10 seconds if the unit has been out of operation for a prolonged period or after replacing the gas cylinder. (Cause: air in the lines)
  3. Once sufficient refrigeration has been obtained in the cooling tank at the MAX position, the control knob should be turned to the MIN position by low outside temperatures or when the refrigerator is only lightly loaded respectively the ambient temperature is below +18c in order to avoid over freezing the contents.
I hope this helps you...



Electrolux camping fridge not getting cold when running on gas, warm air flows from top vent bottom vent not blocked please help

Does it work o/k on 120v? If it does then you may only need to have the burner serviced which entails pulling the burner and jet apart and giving it a good clean out. If the fridge heats up on 120v but does not cool, then you have a major problem with the cooling system and can be expensive to repair

Hi i have a 3 way electrolux fridge. it cools perfectly well on the electric mains, I've not tried the 12v, but it fails to cool on the gas. The gas ignites but fails to cool the system.

A simple remedy to the fridge working correctly.
I wasnt aware that the mains dial turned fully to an 'OFF' position. Once I had turned the dial until it 'clicked' off, I tried the gas and it lit and cooled perfectly.

Motorcaravan fridge auto-igniter continues to flash even when fridge has lit but the gas flame ,visible through small glass in the inside rear of the fridge remains constant.Usually a do-it-myselfer i am...

Yes the problem has been solved by cleaning jet and repositioning thermo-couple so that it is well into the flame.It would therefore appear that the combination of a partially blocked gas jet and a badly aligned thermo-couple triggered the auto-igniter .
Thanks for your interest,.......I am afraid that at my age now help has to come free of charge.A new auto-igniter would have been £69 and a thermo-couple £35.A new jet was a reasonable £6...........

Regards Iain edwards [email protected]
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