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Re: There is any possibility to convert commercial under...
The simplest answer is No. Chillers and freezers use completely different parts to work correctly. Your best and easiest thing to do is to buy a separate under counter freezer.
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as the freezer section is working , It could be a thermostat for the fridge section
If you have some mechanical and electrical knowledge you could possibly do a DIY repair with a new unit from the service dealer agent spares
The only other option is to load the unit onto a truck and take it to a service agent for repairs
Is the compressor running? Is the condenser clean and the fan running? Is the fan inside running? Is there ice on the coil? Those are the first things I would check after I check to see that the plug has power and the temperature control is turned on.
Anything is possible so Yes... Although I wouldnt recommend it. The price to have a qualified technician do the job would reach very close to the cost of a new reach-in cooler and it could put a bit of a burden on the compressor. You are better off selling the freezer and purchasing a cooler with the money from the sale. It would involve one of two fairly large scale jobs. 1. The recovery of the refrigerant and installation of a CPR (Crankcase Pressure Regulator) with some wiring changes and adjustments... Or 2. The replacement of the compressor and capillary tubing.
Not really. UCR means under counter refrig. It could freeze some products, like lettuce, but the unit will not function for long periods of time as there is not defrost cycle and it will freeze up.
Check condenser coil which is the coil on back with fins, sometimes with metal.mesh filter. If dirty or clogged up clean filter, blow out with air or brush and rinse out, careful not to bend fins. Sounds like issue to me. Unless the dump valve may be leaking by
The pressures depend, somewhat, on the expansion device,i.e. a TXV or Cap Tube. Take a pressure reading, then convert it to a temperature. The evap temp should be right at 10 colder than the box temp. Remember, heat flows to cold so the evap has to "Lead the Load" in order to cool. In many cases, the condensing pressure is usually ambient temp, plus 30, then convert to a pressure. These are general accepted practices that have been used for many years.
the ice build up is from a frozen drain line. you will need to remove teh rear cover in the freezer and you will uncover a coil at the bottom center there is a drain hole that allows defrost water to drain out. defrost any ice then flush the line out with warm water. if it doesnt clear right away you may need to use a large syringe or possibly a turkey baster to force warm water into drain.
BTW the door not sealing is not related to this problem. good luck peyton
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