Generally, I would try to determine if the fault lies within the preamp or the power amp. From there, I would have to use my experience with electronics and the symptoms of the amps with a multimeter to pinpoint the error. Most often, I find that old, leaky filter- or power capacitors are at fault.
Make sure the amp is turning on, with the above steps.
Connect a new set of RCAs. ...
Attach an external speaker to the system. ...
Check the amp's crossovers and settings. ...
If your amp has a master and slave setting, make sure you have it set as a master, unless it's connected to another amp.
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Can you explain a bit more? Generally speaking when this kind of component shows that behavior means that is stuck in protect mode because it has an internal fault, and furthermore in the power amp output section.
Yes amps buzz when something gets near them - say a pen or probe and if you know what it is safe to touch a finger! Fortunatly for you the left channel is the same as the right. So if you believe it's the pre-amp work backwards from the where the power amp connects to the pre-amp, going through the pre-amp stage by stage - prodding the parts. Remember a buzz in the right a buzz in the left! No buzz in the left but one in the right fault found! Ignore the power supply it's nothing to do with that as it's common to both channels.
Yes it seems confirmed that the amplifier within is in order and what would have gone wrong is the speakers within the unit. If you can open the laptop carefully sometimes it can be due to a mounting issue , otherwise a fault on the speakers coil or diaphragm, try and tap off dust ,press the diaphragm few times to make it move freely, if not you must find the same type replacement or will need to change them as a pair so as to sound equal.
Check the audio/line pre-amp outputs from the TV to be tested on an external amplifier and if there is sound the fault is with the power amplifier within which can be a power loss or a damage on the output IC. If there is no preamp output then the fault is in the SIF- sound IF and preamp. You will need a signal trace with an AF injection to test and confirm.
A traditional turntable requires a Phono preamp inline with it to PRE amplify and frequency-balance the minute signal produced by it's cartridge for later amplification by a power amp. Most stereo receivers and preamps have Phono connections and internal preamplification strictly for that purpose. Recent AV Receivers generally do not.
You don't say what electronics you're running this through. If you connect it to a Line Level input instead of a specific Phono input the result would be very low, tinny sound.
If so, you need to get a Phono Preamplifier.
Some modern TT's have selectable internal Phono preamps that allow them to connect to virtually any other audio electronics. YOU need to determine its suitability depending on the downstream electronics.
If you've replaced both the battery and the ac adapter then the fault lies in the charging circuit of the motherboard and generally that is either a motherboard replacement or having the power connection on the motherboard by a service center, either way usually about $100
Hi the protection light comes on when there is a problem within the amps. circuitry. Generally speaking the protection light normally comes on when powered up while the amp checks all of its voltage rails so that they all lie within a specific tolerance, when all have been verified to be in spec. then the protect light goes out & the power light comes on. If the protect light stays on then a fault exists within it's circuitry. Cheers, acbva.
When everything does'nt work the problem is usually esier to solve..it implies a faulty power source.
The fault may lie internal or external to machine. To rule out external machine fault try to use some other appliance on the same plug point if it works we know the probles lies within the machine.
If the problem lies within the machine, unplug power source and open the machine.determine where the power cable terminates within the machine. We are now going to check for breakages in the powe cable (that connect the machine to power source) You will require a multimeter. With the multimeter placed on continuity mode check for continuity between the plug point and internal terminating point, you need to perform the continuity test for both live and neutral in unplugged mode.
Next if the fault is ruled out in the cable the fault most certainly lies in the SMPS to check this we need to take a few precautions and carefully observe the power input and output points on the washing machines SMPS (Switch Mode PowerSupply) older machines use a transformer but it all boils down to correctly determining the input and output terminals.
Now with the multimeter in Volt meter mode(AC), carfully power the machine through AC Mains, ensure that the ground and machine are not damp (wet) without having physical contact with the machine you need to test the voltage across the input terminals (this should read around 110 to 220 (AC)Volts depending on the standards of your country) then check the voltage off the input terminals this should read between 20 and 80 Volts DC.
In most cases with your typical problem mentioned you will fail to receive an output voltage at this stage and can conclude that the SMPS is faulty.
If the SMPS is faulty you'd simply have to change it , in some cases though these have detachable fuses which blow off. In the lastter case you can try a fuse rep[placement.
This should solve your problem.