My GDM-10 fridge compressor outlet has no power. Is there a fuse somewhere I need to replace? The wiring looks in great shape.

Question edited for clarity.
Question moved from MISC to one of the Fisher Paykel categories

If it is at roughly 6 hour intervals, it sounds like an issue with the auto-defrost heater system. Probably a short to the case. Look for chaffed wiring or better to replace.

Sorry but there is no reset button for the refrigerator. If the fuse was blown to the outlet and there was no problems before with the fridge it indicates a short circuit somewhere in the fridge and most likely in the fridge compressor. Unplug the refrigerator and remove the back panel that covers the compressor. There should be 3 wires going inside the cover of the compressor. Mark all 3 and mark their location so if compressor is OK you can put them back in same order. The plastic cover may snap on and you may need to squeeze the sides to unlock the cover and sometimes there is a metal clip holding the cover in place. Remove the cover. May look hard but it's simple. There will be three connections under the cover and 2 will go through the start relay. Unplug them leaving the three prongs exposed. They may be marked R =Run, S=Start and C=Common. Set your meter on continuity and then begin by testing 2 at a time until you have checked S to R and R to C an C to S and S to R again. You should get a reading all the way around. If no reading between any of the pairs as you go around you should get no reading between any two the compressor has an open winding and is defective. Then if it passes that test then touch one probe to R and the other to the copper pipes or clean metal on outside of compressor, then S to metal outside and C to metal outside. If you get a reading this way even just a little. The compressor is a burnout. Then let me know what you find. Thanks, Sea Breeze

There is a 3 amp.fuse in the wiring behind the control panel or somewhere between the control panel and the terminal block. If the fuse is blown do not replace with any higher amperage rating more than 3 amps. Here is a Norcold 3163 Service Manual On page 10 of the service manual shows all of the components that the ac power goes through. Let me know what you find and I will be here to answer any questions you may have, Thanks Sea Breeze

First the power cord needs to be checked,is it properly connected,next the power cord wire entering the refrigerator side needs to be tested, check with with power unplugged from electric outlet.Its quite possible that run capacitor is faulty and needs replacing. Click this link below for more details:---
http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/10/compressor-not-running-on-refrigerator.html --------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

. Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start.
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay. The relay is a small usually black cube shaped electrical part plugged into the compressor or wired to it nearby. It may appear burnt or rattle when shaken if it's bad. The two connections should show continuity with an amp meter. If it's good then it's most likely the compressor causing the problem.

Hi,
If the compressor and fan together come on when you bypass the internal plug then, no power is going to the plug. I cannot find a manual for this fridge, but I will tell you what to look for in order to repair it.
I believe that the thermostat which controls the internal temperature is not working. This part controls the operation of the compressor and fan. Check the following things. Some of this may seem silly, but if you had called me out on a service all, I would be checking these things.
I would get a multimeter from Radio Shack, or Wal-mart Usually less than $20.00. Harbor Freight has excellent units for less than $10.00.
Follow this procedure:
1 Check to see that the unit is turned on. (Normally the thermostat also has the "off" switch built in to it.)
2 Unplug the entire unit from the wall.
3 Locate the thermostat control. Turn the control on (DON'T PLUG THE FRIDGE IN). Open up the compartment that covers the thermostat's wiring.
4 The thermostat will have two prongs sticking out of it with two wires attached to it. Remove the wires.
5 Turn the multimeter to the setting of RX1 or 200 Ohms (a unit of electrical resistance). Connect the red test lead of the meter to "V" and "mA" and the black test lead to "COM" Then turn the meter on. Touch the two test leads together. The number displayed on the meter face should go very close to zero. Like 0.2 or something like that or all the way to zero.(0.0) That means the meter is ready to use for testing the power function inside the thermostat and the fridge.
6 Take the two test leads to the meter and touch the two prongs of the thermostat. If the display goes close to zero, the thermostat is good. If the meter does not display anything or signifies out of range. Then the thermostat must be replaced.
7 Call a Refrigeration supply house and locate a thermostat. In refrigerator terminology it is called a "Cold Control" If you ask for that, they will know exactly what you are talking about.
If it is not the thermostat, Reassemble the thermostat/cold control completely.
Check for a defrost timer. This is a device that would probably be on the back of the fridge(but could be next to the cold control inside, or in another spot) with a VERY small knob on it or a slot to insert a screwdriver into.
When you find it follow this procedure:
1 Plug the compressor/fan assembly into the dead outlet inside the fridge cabinet.
2 Turn the cold control to it's highest number (coldest) setting
3 Rotate the knob or screw slot of the defrost timer slowly. The fridge may come one.
If the compressor comes on, you need a new defrost timer.
I hope this helps you.
Best Regards,
Mark

Many RVs / Coaches have the fridge power receptacle protected by a GFCI outlet that is located in the kitchen, perhaps bathroom, areas. Check to see if this outlet is tripped. If it isn't, try plugging a lamp into the fridge outlet to see if it works.

If it does, then the control board may have gotten spiked by a converter surge while power was being lost (also a sign of a failing converter). You can also measure the resistance of the heating element with a multimeter. You should see about 44 ohms (give or take 10%). If the heating element is out of tolerance, the fridge won't use it, but it should throw a code indicating a problem.

If the outlet doesn't work, look for other dead outlets in your coach. Double check GFCI outlets, make sure they are not tripped. And, of course, make sure that all your breakers are turned on, and not partially tripped as well.

check defrost timer stuck in defrost advance with screw driver if it starts replace timer they hide them all over may be in fridge or by compressor ,,behind toe kick..anywhere box shape 5-6 wires on it...just keep looking it's got one somewhere

The ballast is located on the bottom inside wall where the compressor is located. Its usaually mounted, and can be easily removed and replaced. The ballast is rectangular in shape and has a few wires protruding from each end. To replace simply dismount the bad ballast and clip the wires. Match the ballast to a new one, reattach the wires using wire nuts, and remount ballast.

unplug the fridge,remove the electrical cover on the compressor to see if any wires are burnt off.you may have a defective start relay,wire off or compressor seized,that age not cost wise to replace compressor