How to spray paint my atv

If you go to an AUTOMOTIVE PAINT STORE...
The staff there can better advise you on the
particular application you are attempting...

Very likely you are looking at ALUMINUM ...
(you might want to consider getting it powder coated or electroplated... Painting ALUMINUM is TOUGH).

There are "preparations" required to actually get
through the OXIDATION and allow YOUR
PRIMER PAINT (available in many colors) to stick
to the surface...

Then you can manipulate the surface with YOUR
"sand-paper"...

Anytime you sand through your PRIMER and expose the
ALUMINUM... You should repeat the process... PRIMER AGAIN
and only then apply your surface paint...

READING & understanding the directions on the paints you are using is CRITICAL to success... as is cleanliness ...

A good paint job is all about PREPARATION... but sanding
is quite drastic and should be done as part of the complete SYSTEM...

A tragic number of beginning painters think they can "spot sand" to feather the edges of a "chip"...

From a SURFACE (final finish) all that is accomplished by that is a deeper variation in the surface... that will now need to be leveled out (again).

Two ways to level:
- Primer- SURFACER (fine grit block sand)
- Sand it all down SMOOTH (and re-prime)

Sanding is a CRITICAL skill and can change the shape and LINES of your entire vehicle...

Read & heed the cautions on all paints & primers... Use dust masks, gloves, tac cloths, surface cleaners... eye protection and dust free + well ventilated areas (a lot harder than it sounds )...

With the proper sequencing... really beautiful finishes can be produced (WITHOUT all the gouges and dips caused by shabby sanding techniques)...

Hope this helps

Carnac the Magnificent

You need to buy a special paint for metal with special additives that prevent rust. Make sure to also buy a primer that is compatible with the paint you have selected. I found you some great instructions that should help you out.

• Wipe the wrought-iron bed frames with a rag that was dipped in mineral spirits. That will help you to remove all traces of oil and grease from the frames.

• Scrape rusty areas with a putty knife or scraping tool. Remove all loose rust scale. Rub the surface with steel wool, too.

• Apply an oil-based primer. The primer needs to be designed for use on metal surfaces such as wrought iron. Roll on the primer with a small roller. Spread the primer with a paintbrush. Cover the whole surface with one coat of primer.

• Paint the bed frames with a finish paint that has a rust inhibitor within 24 hours of priming them. That will help the primer and paint bond.

• Roll on the paint in the same way you applied the primer. Use a paintbrush to make smooth, sweeping strokes to distribute the paint. Switch to a paintbrush with synthetic bristles if you decide to use a water-based paint.

Read more: How to Paint Wrought Iron Bed Frames ' eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_7794293_paint-wrought-iron-bed-frames.html#ixzz232Q8GYhr

Hi

Quinny would not advise the spray painting of the chassis.

Due to the way the chassis folds down, spray painting it may cause fold and unfold problems.

It would invalidate any remaining warranty on the product.

You should first put a layer of primer using wood primerfrom a spray can. This will prevent thepaint from being absorbed into the wood. After 24 hours, you should use acrylic black (or whichever color youwant) paint in a spray can. The reason Irecommend spray paint is because it's easy and gives you tan even, blemish freecolor. Wait 24 hours (so that bubbleswon't form) and do another layer. If itdoesn't look thick enough to you, wait another 24 hours and do a final layer. There is no need for a clear finish.

In this article you will learn the best way to spray paint anything from wood frames auto parts.
Difficulty: Moderate Instructions things you'll need:

• primer
• spray paint
• microfiber towl
• 300 grit sandpaper
• 800, 1000,1200,1500 grit wetsand paper
• 2000 grit wetsand paper
• clearcoat
• rubbing compound
• medium cut polish
• wax

1. • 1

     Start by removing the part that needs to be painted. (You can also tape around it, but be careful about overs pray)
     

   • 2

     Sand the part with the 300 grit sand paper until the surface is a little rough. This is necessary for the primer to bond with the surface. After sanding wipe down the part with micro fiber cloth.
     

   • 3

     Lightly spray the part with primer. A few light coats are better than one heavy coat. Make sure to allow proper drying time between coats.
     

   • 4

     After a few light coats of primer have been applied, wetsand with the 800 grit sandpaper. After wet sanding, wipe again with micro fiber cloth.
     

   • 5

     Now it is time to apply the color. When spraying the spray paint make sure to use smooth even passes across what is being painted. Do not start painting on top of the part because the paint will be heavier in that area. When painting you want to press and release the button to the side of the product being painted. Again a few light coats are better than one heavy one and make sure to allow proper drying time between coats.
     

   • 6

     After you are satisfied with the color, wetsand with 800 grit sandpaper and then wipe with micro fiber cloth.
     

   • 7

     Now it is time for the clear coat. Spray the clear coat the same way as the spray paint. Only one or two light coats are needed. Allow the clear coat plenty of time to dry as this is the layer that you will see most. You don't want any fingerprints on your final surface!
     

   • 8

     After the clear coat has had more than enough time to dry, You now want to wetsand with the 800 grit, then the 1000 grit, then 1200, then 1500, and finally the 2000 grit sandpaper. This should remove any heavier spots in the clear coat and will polish your painted product up very nicely.
     

   • 9

     Next you need to remove the scratches left by the 2000 grit. For this you will need to buff the surface with rubbing compound.
     

   • 10

     Now you need to buff the surface with a medium cut polish to give the surface a nice glassy look.
     

   • 11

     Whether it be exterior or interior parts that have been painted, I always add a couple coats of wax to the surface. This acts as a protectant to the clearcoat and gives it a nice smooth feel and also helps repel dirt.
     

The following link contains GREAT plastic stray paint: http://www.krylon.com/products/fusion_for_plastic/

high temp paint shouldn't need a primer

I've decided to "black" mine out with a high gloss black. First I'm going to take the grill off & see if I can use airplane paint remover on a small area to remove the coating that is bubbling.

If so, then i'll primer the surface & repaint it as is since it should be smooth after the remover works and I scrape it down and wash it clean.

You could then leave it once the clearcoat is removed, re-coat it with clearcoat, or paint it any color, even to match. Automotive spray paint is available at auto-parts stores for this type of material, just get the right can of spray paint.

If I find the paint remover won't work without hurting the actual grill, I'll use some fine grit sandpaper and prep the surface, then primer it and paint it high gloss black. Color choice is optional of course!


Maybe this will help.

Knowing how to paint a Jeep in camo patterns means you can hide your Jeep in the woods, marshy areas or in open fields without it being easily seen. Using Mossy Oak's Shadow Grass pattern, paint your Jeep with natural-looking shadows and grass blades. The 3-D look of this pattern allows you to easily hide your Jeep from water fowl, doves, deer and big game.

Things You'll Need:

• Sandpaper (120 and 800 grit)
• Wax and grease remover
• Lint-free towel
• Camo stencil
• Masking tape
• Masking paper
• Respirator mask
• Automotive primer
• Automotive paint (black, gray, light tan and brown)
• Automotive clear coat

1. Sand the surface of the Jeep with 120-grit sandpaper until the surface is dull. You can use a dual-action sander for this step to speed the process. This removes the top clear coat and prepares the surface for primer. Primer won't stick to a shiny surface.
   
2. Mask off areas of the Jeep that won't be painted, such as the windows, tires and passenger area of the Jeep. Wipe the surface with wax and grease remover and a lint-free towel.
   
3. Spray primer on the Jeep in three thin coats. Allow each coat to dry completely. Once the primer is dry, use 800-grit sandpaper to sand the top layer of primer until smooth. This leaves a smooth surface for the paint. Wipe again with wax and grease remover and a lint-free towel.
   
4. Paint a thin base coat of gray on the Jeep. Cover all of the primered areas on the Jeep so that no primer can be seen. Allow the paint to dry.
   
5. Go over the Jeep with brown paint, spraying small areas of brown paint in no particular pattern. The finished effect should look like the Jeep is equally painted gray and tan. Hold the first stencil against the Jeep and use black paint to fill it in. Move the stencil over and paint again. Start at the front of the Jeep and work towards the rear.
   
6. Move on to the next stencil and use light tan paint to spray the grass pattern. The grass should start at the bottom of the Jeep and reach up towards the top. For longer grass, don't spray the tops of the grass but instead move the pattern up, spray the stems longer and then spray the tops, making the grass stems long. Repeat this around the Jeep and across the hood. Go back over the grass stems with black paint, lightly spraying a few of the stems to give them a shadow look.
   
7. Finish by spraying three coats of clear coat paint onto the painted areas of the Jeep. This protects the paint from UV rays and keep the camo pattern looking good.
   

Tips & Warnings

• Paint is best applied using a paint spray gun and air compressor, but canned spray paint will work.
• Never sand or spray primer or paint without using a painter's respirator mask.

Resources: Customice Camo Stencils

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I really hope help you with this (remember rated this help) Good luck.

Use a light sand paper first this will ruff the surface a little then wipe it down getting all dust off then primer it then apply your finish coat of black be sure to use the same name brands of paint and primer.

WHAT YOU HAVE IS A CHEMICAL REACTION THIS USUALY HAPPENS WHEN CELULOSE IN THE PAINT ATTACKS USUALY ACRYLIC PAINT WHEN THIS HAPPENS THE ONLY THING I WOULD RECOMEND IS HAVING THE FRAME OLD PAINT EITHER BURNED OFF WITH A BLOW TORCH OR HAVING IT SHOT BLASTED AND POWDER COATED WICH IS NOT THAT EXPENSIVE AND IT IS FAR SUPERIOR TO HAND SPRAYING AND LASTS FOR A VERY LONG TIME WITH A TOUGH FINISH