Who do I contact about getting my cam repaired? A bear tore up some of the outside cover.

Do this. Push the bearing back in and use a center punch and make 4 evenly spaced dimples around the outer edge of the bearing where it contacts the case.

yes there is a seal on the cam shaft behind the water pump pully
undo that bolt
you have to undo the cam shaft to get to it .dont drop the lifters
19 nm for the can bearing bolts ..do not overtighten the two rocker cover bolts you can crack the rocker cover or split the cam bearing those bolts tight into
many say not to use silicon but because of the age of the car you need to use the blue silicone on the half moon the rocker gasket and the cam seal ..there are no online repair manuals for the tm-tp magnas ..the rocker covers can warp but rare

Remove the rocker cover to ascertain the damage done . It may not be bearings but seized valve in the head. To fix cam bearings properly it may necessitate the head removal and machining both the head surface and then the bearings should be line bored to realign the cam shaft correctly. Some Nissan products have the cam bearing housings adjustable with shims to align the holes correctly and if not done will break the cam shaft. IT may be the cam shaft is broken and jammed . What ever it will not be just a case of putting in new bearings until you have the head and bearing alignment checked out by an engineering shop.

FOLLOW THIS STEPS AND FIX IT. God bless you Lubrication

1

Detach the ends of the pedals from the crank axles. Spread a layer of machine grease over the crank axles, then reattach the ends of the pedals.

2

Remove the bolts connecting the pedals to the swing arms. Detach the pedals from the arms, then spread a layer of machine grease over the axles on the swing arms. On some models, the bolts may also serve as the axles. Reattach the pedals to the arms.

3

Remove the bolts connecting the swing arms to the elliptical's upright. Detach the swing arms from the upright, then spread a layer of machine grease over the axles on the upright. Reattach the arms to the upright.

Link Arms

1

Unplug the power cord. Identify the pivot points where the lower handlebars and the footpad link arms connect at each side of the machine. Use a screwdriver to remove the inside and outside elbow covers at each connection. This will expose the pivots.

2

Put a box wrench on the lock nut at the inside of one pivot and loosen the bolt with an Allen wrench. Remove the bolt and check the assembly for nylon spacers or a bearing. If no spacer is found, proceed to the next step. Replace the nylon spacers, reassemble the connection and reattach the elbow covers. Repeat this at the opposite side of the machine.

3

Have an assistant hold a deep socket against the inside face of the pivot hub. Make sure the socket is large enough to allow the bearing to pop out. Insert the point of a flat screwdriver into the outside of the hub until it contacts the bearing. Tap the handle of the screwdriver with a hammer to remove the bearing. Repeat this to remove the bearing on the opposite side.

4

Hold each bearing next to one ear and turn the inner race with your finger. If you hear grinding noises or the bearing is rough, it must be replaced. Lubricate the bearing with lithium grease and a grease gun. Replace the bearing into the hub. Reattach the lower handlebars and footpad link arms and put the elbow covers on.
Pedal Arms

1

Use a flat screwdriver to unseat the tabs that hold the front top cover in place. This will expose the flywheel and pedal arm connection points. Rotate the flywheel by hand and determine whether lubrication will accomplish the repairs. If the bearings are exposed, use a grease gun with an extension nozzle and lubricate both bearings with lithium grease. If the bearings are damaged or sealed, proceed to the next step.

2

Remove the front and side covers on the main frame. Hold the flywheel with one hand and use a box wrench to loosen the bolts that secure the pedal arms at each side of the flywheel. Pull the arms away from the flywheel and remove the bearings from each side.

3

Test the bearings as before. Lubricate exposed bearings with lithium grease and reinstall them. Sealed bearings must be replaced. Reattach the pedal arms to the flywheel. Replace the main frame covers and front top cover to complete the repairs.

see this steps and fix it. God bless you
Pedal Arms 1

Use a flat screwdriver to unseat the tabs that hold the front top cover in place. This will expose the flywheel and pedal arm connection points. Rotate the flywheel by hand and determine whether lubrication will accomplish the repairs. If the bearings are exposed, use a grease gun with an extension nozzle and lubricate both bearings with lithium grease. If the bearings are damaged or sealed, proceed to the next step.
2

Remove the front and side covers on the main frame. Hold the flywheel with one hand and use a box wrench to loosen the bolts that secure the pedal arms at each side of the flywheel. Pull the arms away from the flywheel and remove the bearings from each side.
3

Test the bearings as before. Lubricate exposed bearings with lithium grease and reinstall them. Sealed bearings must be replaced. Reattach the pedal arms to the flywheel. Replace the main frame covers and front top cover to complete the repairs.
Link Arms 1

Unplug the power cord. Identify the pivot points where the lower handlebars and the footpad link arms connect at each side of the machine. Use a screwdriver to remove the inside and outside elbow covers at each connection. This will expose the pivots.
2

Put a box wrench on the lock nut at the inside of one pivot and loosen the bolt with an Allen wrench. Remove the bolt and check the assembly for nylon spacers or a bearing. If no spacer is found, proceed to the next step. Replace the nylon spacers, reassemble the connection and reattach the elbow covers. Repeat this at the opposite side of the machine.
3

Have an assistant hold a deep socket against the inside face of the pivot hub. Make sure the socket is large enough to allow the bearing to pop out. Insert the point of a flat screwdriver into the outside of the hub until it contacts the bearing. Tap the handle of the screwdriver with a hammer to remove the bearing. Repeat this to remove the bearing on the opposite side.
4

Hold each bearing next to one ear and turn the inner race with your finger. If you hear grinding noises or the bearing is rough, it must be replaced. Lubricate the bearing with lithium grease and a grease gun. Replace the bearing into the hub. Reattach the lower handlebars and footpad link arms and put the elbow covers on.

Lubrication 1

Detach the ends of the pedals from the crank axles. Spread a layer of machine grease over the crank axles, then reattach the ends of the pedals.
2

Remove the bolts connecting the pedals to the swing arms. Detach the pedals from the arms, then spread a layer of machine grease over the axles on the swing arms. On some models, the bolts may also serve as the axles. Reattach the pedals to the arms.
3

Remove the bolts connecting the swing arms to the elliptical's upright. Detach the swing arms from the upright, then spread a layer of machine grease over the axles on the upright. Reattach the arms to the uprigh

I would think that it would be the lint filter or filter screen... Either way, unfortunately, most manufacturers regard this as a consumable ( non warrantable) part as its life depends on how often you use the machine and how often you clean the filter.. Im not really conversant with US sold F and P product but perhaps on the internet , there may be further info on the model you have. I beleive that F and P ( Fisher and Paykel) New Zealand, joined Whirlpool in USA ??? Perhaps, the machine you have may actually be a Whirlpool...

There are a lot of bearings back there and any of them can make a noise. If you had ground up part all of that ground up metal floating around in the oil can damage all of the bearings. Also, replacing the bearings in the differential is some very precise work and can't be done properly with out following exact specifications and tolerances. In other words you can't guess about bearing pre-load and gear tooth contact. When you take the carrier out, and also change pinion bearings you changed the relationship between the ring and pinion gears (which can also give you a noise) You have got to get a book for this car and follow the procedure and set the gears up to the given specs. You can't just replace the parts. Also, don't forget there is a bearing that supports the outboard end of the axle which can give you a noise too.

Yes , many Japanese engines run the cam in the head with out bearings or shims between the cam and the cylinder head. As long as there is oil and oil pressure the set up will last for years. Your only option if you damage the cam or the head due to lack of oil or oil pressure is to replace the affected parts as a set (head, cam, oil pump, and contact breaker cover/bearing). With the age of the machine the parts from a dealer may no longer be available and it would probably cost more to fix the cycle than it is worth. Rather than put $1000 into repairing a 30 year old machine, you would be better off buying a brand new machine for $4000 or a newer used machine for something in between. Used parts from a donor bike would be the least expensive way of keeping your cycle on the road if the sentimental value is stronger than your willingness to let it go.

Are you CERTAIN the two cams have not been switched? Chances are there will be the letter "E" on the side of the exhaust cam gear and/or an "I" on the intake cam. The diagram below is for a WR250. I don't have a manual for an rmz250. Your cams are probably the same. Note that the caps should tighten to only 7.2 Ft lbs. (10nm / 1.0 m-kg ). Many other things could be wrong. Was the cam assembly removed incorrectly? Doing it incorrectly can damage the cam, cam caps and cylinder head. Is the cam runout out of specifications ( .0012 )? Are you using a standard torque pattern? ( Cris-cross from inside to outside ) for installing. The reverse when dis-assembling. It may be best to let the shop figure out the problem and do the repair on this one.

If the deck drive belt tightens but the blades don't spin it is because the spindle bearings have frozen. This usually happens with age and is made far worse from storing the machine outside.

If you have the technical ability, remove the cover over the belts on the deck, and see if you can spin each pulley. They should spin rather easily. If they don't, replace the top and bottom bearings in each offending spindle. If you don't have the know-how, bring the machine in for repair.