Am attempting to repair a Elna Lock L5D serger. Any Ideas???

If the upper looper release lever on your Elna Lock Pro DC 5 is not moving to the left, it may be jammed or stuck. Here are some steps you can try to fix the issue:

1. Ensure that the needle bar is in the lowest position, as you have already done.
2. Turn off the machine and unplug it from the power source.
3. Remove the needle plate and check for any thread or debris that may be obstructing the lever.
4. Use a small brush or vacuum to remove any debris or lint from the area.
5. Apply a drop of oil to the lever mechanism and gently move it back and forth to see if it will release.
6. If the lever is still stuck, try gently tapping it with a small hammer or rubber mallet to loosen any debris or rust that may be causing the issue.

If none of these steps work, it may be necessary to take your machine to a professional for repair or servicing.

Serger tension adjustment: reduce all dials to zero. Beginning with left needle, increase tension until an even stitch forms. Continue with right needle, then lower looper, and upper looper. If you are not able to adjust, take it to an experienced tech.

Be sure to thread each in the ORDER specified--for most machines (but yours may differ) upper looper, lower looper, then needles. Follow (closely) the threading diagram on the machine. Missing one guide or hitting the guides out of order will throw you machine into a tizzy! On my serger, the lower looper has to lay over the top of the upper looper/thread before it all gets pulled under the presser foot toward the back of the machine.

It also may help to RAISE the presser foot when threading the machine.

Having problems threading my Elna Pro DE 4 sewing discussion topic...

Threading elna lock pro 4 DE green knob

I don't know your model in particular but generally this is how you set up a serger/overlocker to create a rolled hem. Remove the left hand needle and thread if 4 threads are threaded). Now there is usually a lever around the stitching area that you slide back towards you to remove the stitching finger back (disengaged). Then you adjust the top looper tension looser (about 2-3) and lower looper tension tighter (7 or 8). Leave needle tension at normal tension (5). You may need to move the cutting blade to the right too. The technique is to cut the fabric wider but with a narrow stitch so the cut edge rolls under within the stitching. You want the top looper thread really loose so it rolls right around underneath up against the needle thread, the lower looper thread needs to be tight and almost invisible, pulling the upper looper thread down. I usually do a few test runs and check the stitching. Once happy, I turn the stitch length right down to 1 so it is very dense. This uses a lot of thread up.

Ideally use a wooly overlock thread on the upper looper as this "fluffs" out once stitched and "fills" in covering the fabric edge completely.
some good images here
Sewing Basics Narrow Rolled Hems with Serger Sew Mama Sew Outstanding...

are you using a wire threader or tweezers to thread up? also some overlockers have a slide mechanisim on the looper so you can get to the eyelet, not familiar with this model but your manual should show the threading method. I usually turn the flywheel so the lower looper is all the way to the left and thread up the lower thread carrier, then turn flywheel again to move it to the right, then using the wire threader, I hook the thread from the left and bring it over to the right side, then thread up the looper eye. Hope that makes sense to you

How to Thread Juki MO-134 Serger from watching lady at Lyles. Turn upper blade up. Push in first then turn up.It makes threading easier. Blue Thread upper looper first. Pull thread through tension knob. Don'tjust lay it there. (She thought that is what I must have done) Orange Thread lower looper next. Pull thread through tension knob as inthreading upper looper. Adjust lower looper so it is right nextto upper looper so that their points are almost together and directly belowsewing needles. Lower looper will be in front of upper looper (I believe). With tread from upper looper pulledback, slightly lift lower looper above upper looper and thread. I think this isright. Pull thread back with other thread. Tension is the key. Remember that. Yellow: Thread left needle first.Remember tension. Pull thread through curled wire on left side of needle arm. Green: Thread right needle. Rememberabout tension. Pull thread through curled wire on right side of needle arm. b> Note: Before sewing turn the wheel tomake sure the stitches are going together correctly.

This is what an upper looper looks like http://www.tradekey.com/selloffer_view/id/3755146.htm

It is the one in the back and point toward the needles.

The looper in the front is the lower looper and points away from the needles.

Open both doors on the front of the serger and you will see the loopers to the left of the thread ports.

Could be as simple as poor quality thread (not using MaxiLock thread), the needles not inserted properly (the left is slightly higher than the right), a missing stitch forming pin on the needle plate, the needle bar being too high or a looper timing issue.

As the needles raise, the upper looper should move to the right with the right needle tip slightly above the eye of the looper.

I have just learned this :)
Either needle thread may be engaged for 2-thread serging.
1. Open the front cover and cutting blade cover, cut the upper looper thread just above the threading guide ( this is plate that has two holes for the threads) Raise the presser foot and pull out the clipped thread from under the foot. Remove upper thread from the machine (or you can leave the cone thread on, it doesn't matter).
2. Rotate the handwheel to bring the upper looper to its lowest position.
3. Rotate the subsidiary looper up and to the left, then slip the end into the upper looper thread eye from backside.(this sounds complicated, yes? but it is very simple : the looper has a counter part that is spring-locked to move from left to right and right to left. This is the little claw-looking part of the looper that when in the postion to serg with four threads is to the right side of the looper. It looks like a scorpion's tale. If you can't figure which part it is, use your finger to probe the looper and you'll feel it give a little. This part needs to be moved to the left - it will not slide over, but swing up and over and down, like an arch. Then, where the thread comes out of the looper is where you want the little claw-like part to hook into.)
4. Close the covers. Decrease the needel tension - this depends on what the stitch length is. Stitch length: 2-3, stitch width: 3.0 = L needle n/a, R needle 1; upper looper n/a, lower looper 5
stitch length: 2-3, stitch width: 5.0 = L needle 0, R needle n/a, upper looper n/a, lower looper 3.5

Those are for a flatlock stitch - for a 2-thread rolled edge :
Stitch length: 0.5, stitch width: M = L needle n/a, R needle 4.5, upper looper n/a, lower looper 3.5
Stitch lenght: 1.0, stitch width: M = L needle n/a, R needle 4, upper lopper n/a, lower looper 3.0

If you have any questions, e-mail me at [email protected]

Probably your looper timing is off. This is common, and just a necessary evil of sergers. Their tolerances are tight.
The operation of creating a serger stitch is a succession of thread grabing and delivering. One looper grabs a thread and delivers it to the needle and so on.
To check this, turn your handwheel slowly and check to see that the upper looper is meeting the lower looper by passing very close to the indented part at the back of the lower looper (indented part is called the scarf, this is where the looper threads form a lock) If not, it's the looper timing. If they seem to meet properly then check your needle. Is your needle up into the needle clamp all the way? Try a new needle. Even a slight bend to the needle will not allow the loopers to meet and grab or deliver thread. You might check the tensions. Thread has to have some resistance in order for the loopers to do their job,

If your looper timing is off, find a sewing repair person to retime the serger. Don't try it yourself or put this repair off. If the loopers go further out of timing, they might hit something and replacement can be costly.