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Broke a piston ring. Replaced the rings, cleaned the fuel tank, replaced carburator, cleaned carbon off of piston, valves, cylinder head, replaced all gaskets, added new oil, replaced spark plug, air filter, cleaned rust off of flywheel. Did not change/adjust anything else. 60 psi when I pull the starter cord. Still will not start. Any ideas or suggestions what to try next? Completely stumped.
Out of time? And yes it is getting spark. (See above). Was trying to find a replacement short block for it - #699585. Any ideas where I could find one? Or an equivalent?Out of time? And yes it is getting spark. (See above). Was trying to find a replacement short block for it - #699585. Any ideas where I could find one? Or an equivalent?
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The ring and spring are under the diaphram. After the screws are removed, tilt the carb and a pop will be heard when the carb is separated from the tank. The spring and clip set in the top of the tank.. Ring on the top of the spring.
This blower is fuel sensitive! Gas and oil mixture has to be correct. Too much oil will cause carbon buildup in the cylinder. In my case my blower would not start after several uses this season. I checked EVERYTHING....spark, fuel delivery, air filter.....then checked the flywheel which has no separate key....the key is cast into the flywheel. Read somewhere about the carbon buildup so took the cylinder off and viola! The piston ring was firmly stuck in the piston groove plus the cylinder was carbon scored. I tried to gently pry the piston ring free but it was so firmly stuck, it broke. Not worth fixing. Take the muffler off and you will be able to see the piston ring....use a small pick or something to see if the ring is free. If not, proceed to tear down or throw out. I was able to see scoring on the piston and determine my ring was stuck this way. Remember the elements needed for successful ignition...fuel/air...spark....compression. Stuck ring = low compression. The last time you ran the blower the ring became stuck...the engine continued to run because of the engine rpm's but when you try to start at low RPM's, no luck.
Hi sewallgood, I will try to give you a few suggestions to help solve this problem. I see you have replaced the piston and rings. Did you hone the cylinder wall before installing the new piston and rings so the new rings can properly seal ? Have you checked the compression after installing the new piston and rings? Did you have instructions on how to properly clean and install a new carb kit, as it is very important to get it right on? Have you cleaned or replaced the air filter? When working on the carb, did you replace the very fine mesh filter that is located inside the carb? What can cause the engine to run just a few seconds, can be the fuel tank not venting. As fuel is being removed from the tank, air has to replace the volume of fuel removed. This is usually done by the fuel tank cap that has a 1 way valve that lets air in without fuel leaking out. Some others have the valve installed on the fuel tank itself. Check the valve for obstructions or if damaged. Being careful try running the saw with the cap loose and see what happens. There could be an air leak somewhere, affecting fuel mixture, (gaskets, loose bolts, etc.). Something that not too many people check is carbon build up at the exhaust port that will restrict exhaust gasses causing too much back pressure. This can stop high RPM from the saw. Remove the muffler and clean the carbon from the port. Set the piston at top dead center so carbon does not go into the crankcase and use either wood or plastic tool so piston and cylinder wall are not damaged. To adjust the carburetor turn both mixture needles in (clockwise) until lightly seated so no damage is done to seat or needle. Now turn the 2 needles out (counterclockwise) about 1 1/8 turns. While engine running and warmed up, adjust until running good. Do not adjust high speed mixture needle too lean turned in (clockwise) too much, as this could cause not enough lube or cooling and damage the engine. Do not adjust lower than 1 turn from a lightly seated position. Adjust the spark plug to .030". I hope I have given you a few good suggestions and that it is understandable. Any questions welcome. All the best and good luck.
IF IT WAS MINE , MIKE ,I WOULD USE A HEAVIER GRADE OF OIL-----20--60 OR THERE ABOUTS PLUS PUT A SEAL SOFTENER ADDITIVE IN AS WELL,THERE ARE ANUMBER ON THE MARKET,I USE REDEX INTHIS SITUATION. THOSE TWO THINGSWILL GIVE YOU A COUPLE OF YEARS TO THINK ABOUT IT. "YOUDOIT"
sounds like you have too much oil in the engine (should normally be around 500-600ml when there is too much oil, it gets past the piston rings and pushes it through to the head.
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