Whirlpool LEW0050PQ2 - Electric Board (front)

I agree that it sounds like a circuit board problem. So far as I'm aware, shutting off the power and turning it back on should cause the furnace to reset.


But wait and get some additional opinions on this oddball symptom would be my suggestion.
Thanks guys! The Thermostat is applying power. Both limit switches OK. The 2 microswitches attached to the air pressure lines are OK except one stays closed & one open sensing fan air I guess. Zero voltage read between green & white 120VAC input wires. I don't know what else to check. The darn circuit board will not reset and LED gives 2 flashes for lockout, and it means TOTAL LOCKOUT. Could you guys give me an idea how to go about buying a board to try? The only place near me just about doubles the price unless you are a HVAC company. Do I need to replace the part of the board that says "White-Rodgers" on it or just the green circuit board. Thanks again for helping.
Checked for thermostat voltage to Red & W1, checked limit switches, checked for 0 volts between green & white line input voltage, checked for loose connections. Red LED continues to flash 2 times after power recycled for reset.
Gas valve & igniter receive no power. I don't know what else to check. Does anyone have any more ideas to prove circuit board is bad?


My Trane furnace model is XV80, model # TUD100R9V5H6. If circuit board, do I replace the white box labeled "White-Rodgers, Model 50A51-507" or just the small green circuit board labeled "American Standard 21C148501P01?


I appreciate any more help you could give me including where to buy the board.
Thanks! Mickey

Hi,

You don't say which F code is showing but the problem you discribe could be a FdL or a F11 code. (If you open the panel under the door, 3 screws at the bottom of the machine, the code explanation sheet should be taped to the inside of the machine) In either case the problem is cold solder joints on the CCU circuit board. It seems that whirlpool had some bad quality control issues with these circuit boards. The repair is to take out the CCU circuit board (located inside the machine at the top back in a plastic case (also made of some poor plastic) It's easier to take out the whole plastic case then remove and repair the circuit board. The bad joints are where the spade connectors and the relays (5) are connected to the circuit board. If you're handy enough to resolder those points that's great! otherwise you should be able to take the circuit board, along with this response, to a good appliance repair shop and they should be able to help you out. Remember, this is a repair for the codes I mentioned, other codes would require a different repair. Good Luck.

Hi, F11 code means the CCU circuit board and the motor control circuit board are losing communication. Most often it's the CCU circuit board. There are cold solder joints where the spade connectors and relays are attached to the circuit board (poor quality control by whirlpool) the CCU is at the top of the machine in a plastic case, it's easier to just remove the entire case. If you can handle resoldering those points that's great, if not just print out this response and take the board into a good appliance repair shop, they should be able to help you out. Good Luck.

The problem is cold solder joints on the CCU, a circuit board inside the machine (poor quality control on the part of whirlpool) The circuit board will need to be removed and the joints where the relays and spade connectors are soldered to the board (bottom side) will need to be touched-up. The board is located on the inside, top back of the machine. it's in a plastic case that was made of some of the poorest plastic on earth so tabs and stuff will break when you remove the board. Replacement boards are from the same line that made the originals so I would find a good service guy and show him this reply. He should have you going in no time.

Here is what fixed mine. Remove the top cover by removing the three screws on the back of the machine at the top. Slide the cover to the rear and lift off. The mother board has 2 relays on it. They have white plastic covers. One is labeled K4 and K2. There are five legs on each relay soldering them to the circuit board. Remove the circuit board from the machine. It is the one you can see with the top off in the back of the machine. Unplug all the connectors. Unsolder the 2 omron relays. With a small screwdriver carefully remove the plastic cover on the K4 relay. look at the contact points on the normally open contacts and I will most likely they will look dull and burnt. They should be bright and shiny. You can clean contact points with contact cleaner and a eraser. If you take off the cover of the 2nd relay you will see the contact points are nice and bright and shiny. Swap the 2 relays and resolder them on the circuit board. While you have the board out, and rub it on the contact points where all the connectors slide onto the board. . reinstall the circuit board and replace the top cover. dozens of loads since I did this with no more problems. I expect another failure at some point when the points deteriorate on the swapped relay. At that point I will try and find replacements for both relays. The K2 relay apparently have less voltage going threw the contacts and does not fail.

I am a technician for Asko in Australia.The blackness on the motor control unit(circuit board) is probably carbon dust from the carbon brushes in electric motor.Likely problem is motor brushes have totally worn the armiture in motor or the MCU needs replacing due to earth leakage or short.Purchasing the parts from Asko should be no problem, but if you purchase and install electrical componenents only to find problem unresolved, you can't return installed parts for a refund. Also the breather hose from the detergent dispensor to outer tank can leak from tank connection when spinning load , and result in water running down outer tank and onto the electric motor causing circuit breaker to trip.....possibly damaging motor too. Goodluck!!

Westinghouse SB907 had same problem, which I had thought might be the heating element. Fixed relay soldering on PCB where it was burnt/melted, now works! This probably applies to the Westinghouse SB925 also.

You need to check the connection at the back of the unit that hooks to the house power. Turn off breakers or pull fuses before checking. It sounds like you only have half of the voltage you need. One of the wire connectors may be burnt or you may have a problem with the house wiring.

Had the identical symptoms with my Whirlpool Gold GS6SHEXNB00 side-by-side refrigerator. Had a technician come on site, indicated it was the "circuit board/ timer" (Whirlpool part # 1394052). Board is accessible from behind fridge (lower left side in a white plastic housing to left of compressor).

Swapped the board out (noticed a scorched circuit on the old circuit board). Lightbulbs now work, temperature readouts also good to go.

ajshoe,

I'm not familiar with this particular model but I will tell you this:

The schematics for these circuit boards are generally not published. The reason is that the average repair guy will not want to fix them and probably lacks the expertise. Q means transistor. Transistors are 'relays' after a fashion. If you can see a number, you may be able to access a replacement. Otherwise, I would change the board. The fact that the washer will start sounds like the relay that the board controls is operating properly.

You may be able to find a board renewal/exchange online for less than a whole new one. Be sure to unplug the machine and ground yourself when handling the board.