Intek 7160 will not run at full throttle

it may all be in the carby settings
if you do not have it adjusted correctly then it may be running too lean at full throttle and that is causing a problem such as detonation causing the knock
start it and slowly adjust the settings as you increase the throttle settings

take it in to a service center for a proper diagnosis and quote

may have to bend arm where governor spring goes

The carb has an L screw, an H screw and an idle screw, both screws are fuel, not air screws, the L screw will increase the fuel mixture from idle to half throttle, the H screw will increase the fuel mixture at full revs, this will also govern the maximum revs the saw will do, it is very important you do not exceed the manufacturers recommended max rpm, if the saw will not rev clean up throught the revs, increase the L screw bit at a time until it does.

Adjusting carbs on chainsaws is not to be taken on lightly, there will normally be three screws, an L screw, an H screw, and an idle scre, the L screw will increase the fuel mixture from idle to half throttle ( they are fuel screws not air screws ) the H screw will adjust from half throttle to maximum revs, start with a base setting of between one turn and one and a half turns out, start the saw and warm through, allow it to idle, if need be increase the idle screw to get an idle, turn the L screw in slowley, the revs will increase as the mixture leans off, it will reach a point where it starts to die, now back it off a quarter of a turn, blip the throttle, the saw should pick up clean, if it has a flat spot increase the L screw slightley, now set the idle so it idles without the chain moving on the bar, now screw the H screw in to get full revs, be aware this should be set with an engine rev counter, do not exceed the manufacturersmax revs, hobby saws normally run at about 12500 rpm with an idle speed of 3000 rpm.

Sounds like it cant breath, Is the cat converter clogged? or do you have a huge vacuum leak?

Hello! system dropped our chat... probe onto the Gray/White and - probe on the Gray/black...Meter set to read 5 volts...start engine...Meter must read less than 1 volt (.85)...Slowly increase throttle...Meter must read 4 volts at full throttle...Voltage must increase smoothly...If it jumps, jerks or acts erratic the TPS is defective....saailer

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

Hi sounds like a carbretta problem, not enough fuel reaching the engine for it to run at higher rev's.

Ok I have r Royobi Tiller (30CC Gas) And last year it ran fine after rebuilding the Carb. This year it was "hard starts" Idles fine, (Tiny whisps of blue smoke in exhaust with correct ratio) Even seems to run better with the choke "on" but still...at idle only. as soon as I touch the throttle...its bogs down in tune with how much gas I give it. Little throttle? Little bog down, Little more throttle? Almost stalls, a normal throttle rev? it stalls dead! Then starts right back up again in 1 pull and idles fine again!? WTF? So after cleaning a clean carb again, (twice) and seeing no change I thought I'd go look at the original diaphragm and compare it with the rebuild kit diaphragm (which is the one in the carb.) And guess what? The replacement has a larger rivet by a factor of "2". So basically it was flooding the carb, I bent the needle tang down, better but no cigar. But I could rev it half way now. A second disassemble to bend it yet a bit further and Vrooom vroom vrooom ****! So check your needle valve even though you think its 100%. (Especially if you rebuilt the carb with a kit!)

check for a clogged exhaust look at catalytic converter it could be stop up.