My Kenmore washer will not spin

What is the model number of the unit?

What is the model number of the unit?

That is most likely a broken drive coupler. The coupler mounts between the motor and transmission. The part 285753 is relatively inexpensive and is easy to replace. This washer was designed to be serviced by removing the skin or case. To do so you must flip up the controls then pop the clips and unplug the washer lid switch. then tip the case towards you and lift it out the way. Their are numerous videos out there which show coupler replacement. I recently worked on a washer like this and made a home movie:



If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

You need to replace the water inlet valve on the unit. Here is a link to the part you need.

Your drum is in a sense sitting on a barring , it sounds like your barring is going out. Works with no weight, and if helping as you said. Normally means barring is worn out and can not handle any weight.

The coupling below the tub and agitator has broken. the coupling hooks the motor to the transmission. Very easy repair and parts are cheap, around 20.00 for the part. While your at it get a set of agitator dogs. These are plastic tabs that go in the agitator, they are what causes it to agitate in one direction. These are also only 10.00 and it will save you a service call later. There are many posts and instructions on this repair and the best thing is you can do it yourself with little tools!

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.20902990&pathTaken=partSearch

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part (about $37) and only requires you to access the console and remove the cabinet.

Hello, Guest who?

Getting the lid off of your Kenmore is simple. Raise the lid. At the bottom on each side are a pair of screws that go through the lid and attach to a reinforcing bracket on the inside. Take these screws out, remove the bracket, do the same for the other side. A small bowl or ziplock will keep these small bits from getting away. When you have repainted or replaced the lid, insert the bracket with the loop down, and insert the screws from the outside through the lid.

Done!

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.########) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

If it neither drains nor spins, the first thing to check is the Lid Switch. This prevents the machine from draining and spinning if the lid is open.

I assume that you cannot hear the motor trying to turn.

Following is a Whirlpool installation and maintenance PDF on top load, direct drive washers. It has a description of how to by-pass the switch.

It also has a troubleshooting guide.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, remove the two plastic clips from the console, remove the two screws under the clips, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

Kenmore is a Sears label for many appliances and as they all have various manufacturers you can often pick up a Kenmore-owner-manual of a similar product from the original manufacturer.
As it turns out, 110 is most likely manufactured by Whirlpool.
A quick google search found that it is most likely a 3.8 cu. ft. (King Size) capacity.
I hope this helps.