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Igniter test good. Original fuse I get no resistance. Put new one in. Tested it Had resistance. Turned on dryer. Nothing. Checked fuse no resistance My issue is pointing at timer
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If the igniter doesn't glow, then you probably have a bad igniter! You can use an ohmmeter to test it. Unplug the dryer before you start working on it. then take the dryer apart until you can get to the igniter. Unplug the igniter plug, and measure it's resistance. If it's less than 100 ohms, then it is okay, but if it's reading over 1000 ohms (or an open circuit), then it is bad and needs to be replaced.
If it's an HSI (hot surface ignitor) that glows, then usually the ignition control module looks at it's current draw, to assume that it's hot enough to ignite the gas. If the current draw isn't sufficient, then it won't open the gas valve.
If you see it glow, put your volt meter on the gas valve terminals to see if it gets energized. If it doesn't energize before it locks out, then let the HSI cool down to room temp and check the resistance of it. Compare that resistance reading to a new one (one that is worn will have a higher resistance than a new one - more resistance, less current draw!).
I am not an expert in this area but have fixed a few problems like yours---If the Igniter is ceramic and white look to see it is not cracked or broken near the middle.
A few other things that could make the dryer not heat are,
Heat selector switch on the control panel
Timer
Motor
A quick question though...i see where ya tested the ignitor but what i would like to know is does it glow or not
To test the heat selector switch ya need to use a multimeter set to measure ohms of resistiance and test the following to have Zero ohms resistiance when set to high heat setting
Red wire to blue wire terminal (wire must be removed) Red wire to yellow wire temninal
The heat circuit on the timer is Yellow wire terminal on the timer to the red wire terminal...on that too the wires need to be removed off of the timer
On the motor the heat circuit on the motor switch is the yellow/black wire to the black wire to determine if its good the igniter can be checked for POWER (120 volts) since the motor only sends power to the ignitor when the dryer is running because itsa built in safety feature that will prevent the dryer from heating when not running
Remove 1 wire from the element . Your 220 V comes from ...110 motor , 110 control board . Check which wire is not getting 110 V , trace it and see which it comes from . That will tell you which one is defective .
when you start you dryer and it got hot little bit and then won't got hot again? if yes then you may need new flame sensor..or if you can see your dryer igniter turn on your dryer and watch..you heard click sound then igniter will glow then one more click sound and should see flame..ok watch for 10 min..if after click sound igniter glow and other click flame will not apper then you need new gas valve..good luck..let me know it help or not...thanks..
Parts that must be tested are igniter, gas valve and thermal fuse.
If there is no spark and fuse is good then the igniter must be replaced. Thermal fuse is tested using a multimeter. If it is none of the above then usually the valve is faulty.
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