On Kenmore dryer is there a way to wire in a 3 wire heating element to a 2 wire one

The thermostat which is a round 2 wire control on the blower box on the back of the dryer controls the heat on all dryers. always shut off power when checking any electrical appliance. Clothes dryers are wired with 2 voltages, The 240 volt supply is for the heating element only, while the 120 volt supply gives power to the timer and motor that spins the drum and powers any lights and switches. If the heating element is coming on, try replacing the thermostat. As always unplug the dryer first.

Dryer will not run
1. No power--check fuse & power supply
2. Loose wiring--check terminals & wiring
3. Door switch--make certain door closed properly to actuate switch
4. Defective motor---check motor.
5. Defective timer---replace timer

Runs but will not heat
1.loose wiring--check terminals & wiring
2. Defective thermostat--replace thermostat
3.defective centrifugal switch in motor--replace switch (check linkage to motor)
4. Defective timer--replace timer
5. Open heater element---replace heater element
6. Heat switch set to off----set switch for desired heat

Instructions Things You'll Need:

• New heating element
• Screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers

1. Step 1 Unplug the dryer from the wall before starting. Find the dryer heating element cabinet. For most dryers this is located in the back, however it can be in the front. Find the compartment on the dryer.
   
2. Step 2 Remove the screws or clips to get into the compartment to expose the heating element and wires. Use a needlenose pliers to carefully remove the element wires.
   
3. Step 3 Detach the can shaped object that may cover the heating element. Tip the can backward to slip it off the hooks holding it in place. Some models place the heating element with the can, while others provide easier access to it.
   
4. Step 4 Unscrew the screws holding the element in place and pull it out.
   
5. Step 5 Put the new element in place, and replace the screws to secure it in the dryer. Put the can back in place and connect the element wires before putting on the cabinet cover.
   
6. Step 6 Run the dryer on fluff with no heat, and go outside to make sure enough air is getting through the vent system.
   
7. Step 7 Break the new heating element in by running your dryer on high heat for 10 minutes without any clothes in the dryer. This cleans oily residue off the element and keep the clothes from getting smoky.
   

You probably have a bad thermal cut-off . This is the small thermostat , located at the top of the element housing . This " thermostat " should read infinate resistance ( no resistance ) . You can put the 2 wires togather , and see if heat comes on . pt # 3399848 . Both thermostats , should read 0 resistance . They are normally closed . The thermal cut-off , will not reset itself , if open . This is a safety t-stat , for when dryer gets too hot , and will have to be replaced .

Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems:
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.

Wow, not sure how this listing got filed under a Network Firewall, other than the "Appliance" keyword, but here goes...

Your heating element is 1 of basically 3 parts that all need to function to get the heat going, the element is 1, the relay is 2, and the controller is 3. If you've replaced the element, then it must be the relay or controller of course.

CAREFULLY use a multimeter to test the voltage of the socket the elements connect to while they should be heating. If there's no voltage there, follow the socket's wires to a small box (probably 1-2" square) with 1-2 other wires coming from it. Test the voltage at the 2 other wires, or if there only one other wire, at the other wire and the element's black wire. If there's voltage there, it's probably a bad relay, which is much cheaper then the controller. If there's no voltage there, then it's the controller.

it should be in a housing mounted just inside the back panel. unlatch the housing from its mounts and the element slides out from the bottom

believe that model has a relay under console..pull console end caps off remove screw on each end roll console back..if your model has an electronic bd it also has a heat relay it will be the one with 2 large red wires.. a quick ck would be to unplug power remove the red wires and tape bear ends together pug back up turn on dryer if it heats unplug and exchange the 2 relays the one with the blue wires is the motor relay and is same as heat relay try again if motor fails to start bad relay if motor starts bad control bd

NO HEAT, CHECK THE FOLLOWING:
1. CHECK SETTINGS OF THE SELECTOR SWITCH. MAKE SURE A HEAT SETTING HAS BEEN SELECTED.
2. IF IT IS AN ELECTRIC DRYER, CHECK FOR 240VOLTS AT THE OUTLET.
3. CHECK THE HEATING ELEMENT FOR 240 VOLTS AT THE TERMINALS OF THE ELEMENT WHILE THE DRYER IS RUNNING. IF NO 240 VOLTS, TRACE WIRING BACK TO OTHER COMPONENTS OF THE HEAT CIRCUIT. WHEN YOU FIND 240 VOLTS ACROSS THAT COMPONENT, THAT IS THE BAD ITEM.
4. CHECK FOR BURNT WIRES IN THE HEAT CIRCUIT. (HEATER, THERMOSTAT, HIGH LIMIT THERMO, MOTOR CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH, TIMER, THERMAL FUSE).