The question i asked has been answered, but is there actual diagrams that i could view to see how it's done?

Step 1: . Unplug the fridge. You can wait until later but don't forget.
Step 2: Freezer door. It's 4 screws, one in each corner. Just loosen them a few turns - don't take the screws out entirely - it's much easier putting the door back on when the screws are already in place. The door slides up & off.
Step 3: Lower basket. It lifts out, no tools required. Now's a good time to start eating all your ice cream.
Step 4: Upper basket. Remove the 2 screws at the front of the rails, then lift up the rails slightly on each side, to slide the basket forward.
On the plastic pieces at the back sides of the upper basket, push in two tabs with your screwdriver on each piece & pop them up. This will let the upper basket slide out off the rails.
Step 5: Icemaker. Remove the lower screw, then loosen or remove the two screws above the icemaker. Unplug the wire harness where it passes through the rear panel - squeeze the sides of the plug & pull. Lift the icemaker up & out. The water tube will slide out of the guide.
Step 6: Plastic guards.The thermostat guard is the skinny piece to the upper right. Push in (to the right) the tab on the left side in the middle. The guard opens like a door pivoting on the right edge, & pulls out.
The center fan guard has two tabs at the top on each end that push in toward the center, & another tab in the middle at the bottom of the guard that pops up.
Step 7: Freezer panel. Remove the 4 screws in each corner. Push the thermostat back through the slot at the top, & also push the icemaker plug back through its slot.
FAST/HARD WAY: Pull carefully up & out from the top middle edge. Be careful because that sucker is SHARP! The back panel will bend vertically in the middle as you remove it, but it's flexible & will pop back into shape.
SLOW/EASY WAY: If you don't like bending the panel around the drawer slides, you can take off the slides. The metal rails have tabs that push in to release the whole slide assembly, which pulls out forward. You only need to take the rail housings off one side - when you go to remove the rear panel, just pull that side first. To release the upper section (that you already unscrewed in Step 4), left it up, bend in & pull out - the back end has a tab through the freezer wall. The lower plastic slide housing unscrews with 4 screws.
Step 8: Ice Dam. By now you should see the ice problem. Typically the entire evaporator tray is completely iced, along with some of the tubing. MELT IT ALL. Warm water applied with a turkey baster works well. Be careful not to puncture the coils because ... that will ruin your fridge.
Do all the ice melting while the drain is still plugged so it runs out into the freezer floor where you can sponge it up. If the meltwater goes out through the drain hole, it can flood the pan under the fridge - no big deal, just dirtier water & more mess.
The drain hole is near the front of the rear tray in the middle. It's pretty wide (1/2?) & short, only ~2 inches long. It goes straight down into a rubber "duck bill" grommet that's probably plugged up with gunk, that you access from the back of the fridge...
Step 9: Drain grommet. Pull out the fridge so you can access the back side. Remove the screws (6?) around the lower access panel, pop the power cord up & tilt the panel out of the way. The plastic tray under the fan is the evaporator tray - that's where the water SHOULD normally be dripping into & evaporating from.
Behind (technically in front of) the fan, there's a black drain slide into the tray that leads up to your plugged drain. Push the slide aside to see the drain. There's a rubber "duck bill" grommet on the end. Pull it off & clean it - it's no doubt plugged with gunk. Better yet, trim the opening very slightly so the hole is larger - see this site for photos.
Step 10: Put it all back together. Some tips: if you lived hard/fast & didn't remove the rails & rail housing, getting the freezer panel back in place . Make sure you slide the tray rails all the way out before you start trying to put the rear panel back. Bend the panel vertically along the middle so it springs back into place on each side. Again, wear gloves. Once it's in place, don't forget to run the thermostat wire & icemaker tube/plug out.
When you put the the top tray back, make sure it's all the way to the front before you pop the plastic pieces on each side back down, so the gears on each side are aligned in matching grooves. Otherwise your drawer will be crooked & probably won't slide.
Hope this helps. I have a Whirlpool GX2FGDXVY but these steps work on other models too including Maytag etc.

here is the whole exert video of the whole eplanation watch it,(https://youtu.be/lhuBR1sKx7E)or
kingsley

Hello Tim;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

You do not have a major problem. This is a easy fix.

When you open your freezer door and then close it you are pushing air into your freezer. This is where the sound is coming from.

On your drain tube in the back that goes to your drain pain there might be a black rubber grommet on the end. The initial design was to put this restrictive rubber element from having air go up your drain tube. Over time the rubber dries and restricts the defrost drain and retains water.

If you have this do what I do on service calls - remove it and throw it away.

You may have a snake type drain tube to your drain pan. Once again the manufacturers engineers, with no field experience, decided to put a loop in the drain tube to prevent warm air getting into your unit. Well, the defrost condensate gets caught in the loop. That is where you are hearing the noise.

The drain tube use to be a straight tube. And so, that is where we are back to. It worked fine. Manufacturers changed it and now us technicians put the straight drain tube back in.

Hello John;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

A frozen or blocked drain may not be the problem, or it may.

You have one of two problems. Regardless of which problem it is you need to remove the back wall panel in your freezer. This is not a easy task. You must remove the freezer door, the ice maker, the side guide rails. There are two clips on the back wall air distribution center section using a screw driver to depress and then some. You need to install a hot wire from the bottom of the defrost heater to the drain. Do not attempt this, you may damage some of the components if you do not have the experience.

Ok, lets check out the frozen drain the easy way. Your unit goes through a defrost cycle every 8-10 hours. This is where everything shuts down for 20-30 minutes with the exception of your lights. Your defrost heater turns on during this time.

1.) Check the Drain:

a.) Pull your unit out from the wall to where you can get behind it. You may have to raise up the leveling jack screws in the front to do this. Remove the bottom toe plate. There are two Philips head screws holding it on. Turn the jack screws counter clockwise to raise.


b.) Having pulled the unit out from the wall, unplug the unit. Remove the bottom back cover. There are several hex head screws holding the cover on.
Pull the drain tube out. It just Pops in and out. If there is a black rubber grommet at the discharge end, remove it and throw it away. The initial intent was to keep warm air from getting into the freezer. However, over time they dry up and prevents the condensate from draining.


c.) Insert a wire up into the drain hole, such as a coat hanger, to check for blockage. If it is blocked with ice, you must unplug your unit for 24 hours to completely clear the ice.

2.) Obstruction or Refrigerant Leak:

Recently, I believed my friend had a frozen drain in the same unit that you have. Upon pulling the back cover I discovered a block of ice build-up at the refrigerant and capillary tube connection. The capillary tube is about 1/16" in diameter with a small needle size hole running through it. This tube can easily become plugged, which is common. This block of ice will continuously drip. A repair of this nature is about $450.00 - $550.00. The rule of thumb is: "If the cost of repair is 1/3 or more of the original cost of the unit, then replace the unit. You can get some good deals at a Sears Outlet (Scratch & Dent) Store.

Honestly, it really sounds like your problem in the drain is blocked and is overflowing causing a nightmare. I'm assuming it starts just at the bottom of the back wall just around the first set of drawers. There is a kit that they make that actually resolves this issue. Unfortunatly, after looking it up they actually discontinued that part for your model. Not to worry, I'll tell you how to build on. You'll want to remove the drawers and the shelfs and the back wall. For maximun ease I recommend turning the machine off for a day or two and letting everything thaw out. Once the back is off locate the defrost heater. It will run along the bottom of the evaporator. Now, find the drain hole in the trough below the heater area. Once you;ve done that find an aluminum can and good pair of scissors. Cut a strip that can fit down the drain hole, but not to small or too big. Be sure to make it a decent length. Take one end and sort of wrap it around the defrost heater directly above the drain hole then have the rest of the strip go into the drain. How this works is everytime the machine goes into defrost, this ice will melt and the water will fall to the trough where it will go to the drain. The bad thing is hot water actually freezes faster than cold, but with the aluminum improvised drain heater, heat from the element above will pass downward to the aluminum keeping the water warm enough to not freeze as it goes down the drain and finally out of the machine. Your problem will be a thing of the past. Good luck

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

Hello,

On older freezers/refrigerators the drip pan could easily be removed. On newer models its now part of the base frame and their is no way to remove it. Dam shame if ya ask me since it was recommended noraml to remove and clean drain pan every couple months, but hey ain't modern technology great hehehehe

Gene

Hello, Thank You for using FixYa. I will be helping you today.Chances are you have a clogged or frozen drain which is behind back inside panel of freezer or the door may not be sealing but more than likely the drain. You can use boiling water to thaw the drain once you remove the panel.
Thank You and please rate my answer if it was helpful..

Diagrams here : http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Sub-zero-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Model-2811/3054/0161000?searchedModel=2811&blt=05

These are the best I can Do with the Diagrams but I can explane what is going on, and possible soloutions.

Your defrost drain is mostlikeley frozen. This is located on the right hand side, just inside the metal cover. When you remove the meteal cover (((evaperator cover or water pan))) you will see the hole on the right.

Since this is cloged then the water stays in the cover or pan and freezes after the defost cycle.

after you remove the cover you will see the evaperator (( aluminum tubing with fins))) and the heater ((( Black Rod )))

When your machine gose into defrost about every 8 hrs, this heater melts the ice off the evaperator((( Hence Frost Free ))) and the water goest into the (((( evaperator cover or pan ))) and flows to the defrost drain hole to a pan under the machine.


They make a after market heater for the drain... it is a pain to install.

First I would try to defrost the drain by poring war water down it and verifying it goes into the pan at the bottome of the machine.

When your done you will need to silicone around the (((cover / pan))) where it covers the defrost drain hole.


Good Luck
Don
Mr Fix it

You need to remove drain pump and clear restriction. once done, you should be able to continue to wash again.

I have some experience in refrigeration (since I was 16 to now ,I'm 41 years old) and we only replace the grommets when replacing the compressor ,I don't recomended to do that in that little room ,you can bend or break a copper pipe and then will be a big problem.

Hi, Remove everything in the freezer. Get as much ice out as possible with out using sharp object. You will need to remove the rear evaporator panel inside the freezer and locate the drain hole below the evaporator. The safest way is to use a hair dryer. Once you can get to the drain hole and get the ice down inside the drain thawed (a few glasses of hot water usually gets the job done) Try and run a wire (I use a hose or biasting seringe) and get that drain hole flushed out real good. Sometimes it takes 45 minutes or so. After that is cleaned out, put the rear panel back on and you should be all set.
I hope I have helped you. Please let me know if I can be of more assistance.

Thanks
Vic