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I would take the film to a custom processing lab; that is where professionals take film. The only difference between 620, which is no longer used, and 120 is the spool that the film is wound on. A custom lab can remove the film from the spool by hand and process it for you. It will be more expensive than you normally pay for processing. You can save money by having them develop the negatives only and then taking the negatives to a low cost lab for machine printing or they can make professional quality prints for you at a cost, of course.
The F65 is a film camera. You must get the film processed before you can see any pictures. If you have the setup yourself, you can develop the film. Otherwise, take the film to a photo processing lab (any camera store and many department stores, drugstores, and supermarkets either have them or have access to one) and get it processed. If you're shooting negative film, you can get prints. If you're shooting slide film, you can get slides. Either way, you can also request a CD containing the digitized images.
Again, the F65 is a film camera. The camera can't show you the images it has taken.
It's scratch along the film and will have been caused by either faulty film (very unlikely but not impossible), or it has been scratched when running through the camera or processing machinery (sadly both very common).
Open the back of your camera and lay a section of scratched negative over the back, emulsion side down, just as it would have been when taking photos. Use the scratch to guide you to find any rough/sharp points especially across the masking frame (the 36mm x 24mm rectangular hole in the camera which determines the size of the image). If you find none, then take your negative along and ask ask at the photo lab you use whether they have had any problems. They'll almost certainly say "no" but will then quietly check and rectify their machinery if they find dirt or debris stuck in there. Frequently the fault is in their sleeving machine which cuts up the negatives into shorter lengths.
Unfortunately, it's a problem which is far more common these days. Most 35mm film cameras are old and poorly maintained, or are just overpriced and badly made plastic toy cameras like the entire Lomo range. In addition, many people get their films processed at local minilabs and as they're used less frequently now the standards of operation and maintenance have generally fallen. I find that if I use a postal processing service the large commercial labs have better maintained machinery. The downside is that the local minilab will often give a more personal service with respect to getting an accurately exposed print and the large commercial lab will not unless you pay for a premium service.
Yes, you can get 35mm in color negative or black and white. Although the black and white film may be in 2 varieties: traditional process black and white(not all labs can process this) and C-41 process black and white (and one hour lab can process this). If you are looking for color film choose the C-41 color negative film like Kodak gold 400 or Fujicolor 400.
The problem is your lab, assuming you got prints, the lab printed them like normal, But look at your negatives, you will see the 4 panel images.
Best to print an Actionsampler photo from the internet or lomography website, just print a rough one on regular paper, 4x6inch, and take it to the lab to show them how the prints should be. They should re-print from your negatives for free because they made an error the first time. It may have been an automatic adjustment by the machine they use.
Could be one of two problems. Either you are letting too much light through the lens or, the lab you are using needs to balance their machine. To reduce the exposure you can buy a lower speed of film, increase the shutter speed, OR increase the f stop number. To find out if its the lab, take your negatives to a different lab and see if they turn out the same.