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Be sure to check the gasket around the door if it has a gap in pools in humidair the moisture will freeze on the coil. Especially if the fan is running and the freezer is remaining at desired temperature this is a common problem it does have a defrost but you would have more icing up than just Frost. Make sure doors closing all the way and door gasket is not worn leaving a gap for outside air to get in.
Non defrosting units are a thing of the past, almost all fridges made in the last 20 years are self-defrosting. If the coils are freezing up, what kind of ice is it? Clear ice near the bottom indicates your defrost drain is clogged. Snowy, fluffy ice indicates the defrost system is the problem. Make sure the fan in the freezer is blowing freely. Then check the continuity of the defrost heating element. If its OK, the limit switch is bad. If its not replace the defrost heater. Also don't overlook the possibility the door gasket is leaking, allowing warm moist air in that condenses on the coils! To check a gasket, insert a dollar bill between the door and the gasket, close door on bill, pull bill out, if good resistance gasket is good, if little or no resistance gasket is bad or needs adjusting.Do this teas all the way around each door.
Really need to know what motor(s) are running (compressor, evap fan inside freezer compartment, condenser fan under fridge)?? Of course, check your temperature (thermostat) settings. Side-by-sides usually have 2 of them. They should be labled for refridgerator and freezer. The freezer control usually only opens a baffle from the freezer compartment to the refridge compartment. The refrigerator temp control is the one that controls the compressor on-off cycles and the temp of refrig compartment (this keeps the refrig compartment from freezing the milk and cokes) If the freezer control/baffle is set too far open, this will cause the refrig temp control to shut off too soon for the freezer temp to get low enough. These controls can get bumped out of the correct setting accidently from time to time. To check the following, the fridge has to be running, or in a condition where it "should be" running: If compressor is running (condenser fan should be too), check if evaporator fan (inside freezer) is running. Open (freezer) door and hold door light switch in when you check evaporator fan operation (some fans stop when door is open) If it is not running you may have a bad evaporator fan motor. It could also be a bad defrost timer, causing the evaporator (also inside back of freezer) to ice-up. This blocks the air flow over evap. Also, there is a defrost terminator switch on the evaporator coil that stops the defrost cycle when coil is clear of ice/frost (but timer hasn't ended defrost cycle). If it is defective, that could also keep the fridge from going into the defrost cycle, or taking it out too soon. If it is the timer, change the defrost terminator as well. Depending on how handy you are, you may be able to check/change any of these parts yourself. If you don't know much about elecrical stuff, you should leave it to a repair tech. Hope this helps.
Check the door gasket seal.
Open the door for a few seconds and then close.
Immediately open the door again, and, if sealing properly, it should take more pulling force to open the door.
Most/many times this is a clogged up or restricted defrost drain system, but once in a while the drain system has been cleaned and everything appears to be good but you still get ice in the defrost drip tray and such and the drain freezes over. Some manufacture designed kits to help and some home made remedies.http://www.applianceaid.com/defrost_drain_freezes.html click the link given above
If the freezer is in defrost then the freezer fan should be off. Only on the electronic will the freezer fan come on in defrost but the freezer door has to be held open for 3 min before the fan comes on
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