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I put a new ring and pinion in 2006 my john deere 790. Now my front end loader and back hoe doesn't work or the power steering. what could be my problem?
Using a block or dowel of wood(maybe rubber mallet also), depress the top cap of the cylinder to relieve tension on the ring.
Use a small edged screw driver or pick and spin "retainer" in until the bent end comes to the opening.
Lift up and rotate the ring more to allow the ring to pass over the edge of the opening.
Once the retainer is started you can tap it with the wood and rubber mallet around the circumference of the cylinder to release the retainer from the groove.
If you havent done so by now the oil should be drained.
with the cylinder firm in vise(but not too firm to "distort the integrity of the cylinder.) Place the cylinder Sideways so you can pull out piston and rod assembly.*** Put hose or suitable drain on holes of cylinder***. With the motion of the piston the residual oil will tend to spray out.
Pull on the piston and position it to bottom out on the top gland(cap) ie:full extension
Place support under the rod to avoid damage. The gland is a tight tolerant fit with use of O-rings and backup rings. Too much offset can lead to damaging gland assembly, and jamming in the cylinder. You may be able to just hold with hand also depends on size, bore, stroke, pressure rating. Use due dilligence.
Now that its out you have the piston assembly with gland in hand..**if only the rod comes out there are more steps to take, and you need a new rod but sometimes its more cost effective to buy a new cylinder. If there is a farm supplier or hydraulic dealer near they can certifiably /replace repair the cylinder for you. Hydraulic pressure is kind of like lightening. If it strikes you under pressure it can kill you.*** Using the dead blow or rubber mallet try to pop the gland out by using the piston/rod assembly as the puller. You may not have to remove the top clevice or other end of the cylinder, so maybe you could tap on that.
The piston can be removed from the rod depending again on make. Usually a socket head cap screw or king nut holding it in place to the rod.
When the piston is removed you should be able to slide gland off also.
You'll need that pick and or the screwdriver to pick out the seals carefully. Let me know if you require more...WF Services
It is the plug behind the seat. The same hydraulic oil operates the 3ph and the FEL. Unless you can find the kind you need in the owners manual just use a heavy duty tractor hydraulic & transmission oil. There should be a mark on the dip stick where you put it in or a sight glass in the area of the floor on the side so you'll know it's full.
power steering pump is mounted on front of engine where the tming gears are. Shaft leaks into crankase. Hydraulic fluid circulates through transmission, main system and power steering. Common problem with the 1020.
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ck your hydraulic oil tank level ? if ok ck that your three point hitch moves up/down ? this model uses the tractors hydraulics to steer , testing these things first helps to identify a bad steering valve
My problem with my John Deere 790 stalling was my safety seat switch. It's a quick fix! What I had to do to fix my 2006 John Deere 790, was:
1. Un-hook the switch wires under the seat that connect to the seat switch.
2. Then, connect all of them with little wire clamps (or you can use a raw wire and connect them all) inside the wire connector, with the 4 connectors in it, to bypass the seat switch. Hot wire all of them together. It somehow resets the switch.
3. Then, with my 790 Deere in neutral, I started it up and held the key in starter position for about 2 seconds. (Instead of letting go right when it fires up) Somehow, in doing this, the seat switch reset and I was able to reconnect the switch and the seat switch works as it should now. My Deere 790 front loader fires right up without stalling now, while in neutral, of course. So, try this first because it's a quick fix. I hope this helps.
Cheers,
Aaron
first thing I would do is test the pump itself even if no wear is found you could have a GPM loss.
So you need to do a flow test on it to find otu how much the loss is and check it to the specs of that hydrolic pump first.
power steering pump is mounted on front of engine where the tming gears are. Shaft leaks into crankase. Hydraulic fluid circulates through transmission, main system and power steering. Common problem with the 1020.
if fluid is flowing out the bellows, you need to replace the steering rack assembly. There is no fluid in the area of the inner tie rod. The seal is just before the tie rod.
Steering Gear
The power rack and pinion steering gear is serviced as a power steering short rack (3L547). The front wheel spindle tie rods (3280) and tie rod ends (3A130) are serviced individually.
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The power rack and pinion steering gear incorporates quick connect fittings for the power steering pressure hose (3A719) and power steering return hose (3A713) that allow the lines to swivel. This is normal and does not indicate loose fittings.
If the fittings leak, check to make sure they are tightened to 14-20 Nm (10-14 lb-ft). Do not overtighten.
If the leak is not corrected, replace the fitting seals.
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Section 11-02: Steering System, Power
1997 Windstar Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Tie Rod End
Steering Gear Installed Removal
Remove and discard cotter pin and nut from worn tie rod end (3A130).
Disconnect tie rod end from front wheel knuckle (3K185), using Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D or equivalent.
Hold tie rod end with a wrench and loosen tie rod end jam nut.
Note depth to which tie rod end was located by using the jam nut as a marker. Grip tie rod end with a pair of suitable pliers and remove tie rod end from front wheel spindle tie rod (3280).
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11-02: Steering System, Power
1997 Windstar Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Steering Gear
Removal
Raise vehicle on a twin post hoist and remove wheel and tire assemblies. Refer to Section 00-02 .
Support vehicle with jackstands under front jack pads.
Remove tie-rod end cotter pins and nuts and remove tie rod ends (3A130) from front wheel knuckle (3K185). Refer to Section 04-01 .
Remove front stabilizer bar (5482). Refer to Section 04-01 .
Disconnect heated oxygen and catalyst monitor sensors.
Support flex pipe.
Remove bolts and disconnect flex pipe from the converter.
Raise dash opening steering column opening weather seal (3513) (secondary) above the steering gear housing (3548).
Remove pinch bolt retaining steering column intermediate shaft coupling (3A525) to power steering gear input shaft and control (3D517) and disconnect the shaft.
Remove nuts from steering gear-to-front subframe retaining bolts. Remove bolts.
Remove rear subframe-to-body retaining bolts.
Lower twin post hoist carefully until rear of subframe (5R003) separates from body, approximately four inches.
Remove heat shield band and fold shield down.
Rotate power rack and pinion steering gear to clear bolts from front subframe (5C145) and pull left to facilitate line fitting removal.
Place a drain pan under vehicle and remove line fittings.
Remove power rack and pinion steering gear through LH wheel well.
Remove and discard the O-rings.
Installation
Install new Teflon® O-rings on line fittings as outlined.
Place steering gear retaining bolts in steering gear housing.
Install power rack and pinion steering gear through LH wheel well.
Install power steering line fittings to power rack and pinion steering gear.
Position power rack and pinion steering gear into front subframe.
Install ******** heat shield.
Install tie-rod ends to front wheel knuckle. Install nuts and new cotter pins. Refer to Section 04-01 .
Install LH front stabilizer bar. Refer to Section 04-01 .
Install steering gear to subframe mounting nuts. Tighten to 115-135 Nm (85-99 lb-ft).
Raise hoist until rear subframe contacts body.
Install rear subframe to body retaining bolts. Tighten to 113-153 Nm (83-112 lb-ft).
Install exhaust system flex tube to dual converter Y pipe (5F250) and remove flex tube support.
Connect heated oxygen and catalyst monitor sensors.
Install tire and wheel assemblies. Tighten lug nuts (1012) to 115-142 Nm (85-104 lb-ft).
Using a new pinch bolt, install the steering column intermediate shaft coupling on the power steering gear input shaft and control and the lower steering column shaft. Tighten the pinch bolt to 34-46 Nm (25-33 lb-ft).
Position steering column opening weather seal (secondary) over the steering gear housing. Tighten nuts to 4.5-6.3 Nm (40-55 lb-in).
Remove jackstands and lower vehicle.
Fill power steering oil reservoir (3A697) with Premium Power Steering Fluid E6AZ-19582-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESW-M2C33-F. Refer to Section 11-00 .
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