Model GLP85800. How can I remove rear panel?

Hi,

Behind the knob on the control panel is a screw that needs to be removed to remove the control panel. Once removed, there is 4 screw around the door frame and two screw on the top of the front panel that needs to be removed to access the burner you seek. Converting to LP

Although this link if for a Whirlpool dryer, the burners and premise is the same. I hope this helps you, good luck.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

Hello there
I will answer this in 2 sections for testing the burners and the thermostate
Surface Burner Testing:

In order to test the surface burner on your electric range, the following steps should be taken:

1. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!



2. Remove the surface burner from the stovetop. On most electric ranges this can be done by pulling the burner up and out of its plug-in receptacle. Other models have the burner directly wired to the cooktop. To remove this type of burner, undo the screw that secures the burner to the cooktop, remove the clips that secure the insulators to the burner terminals, and carefully unscrew the wires from the terminals. Take care not to bend these terminals.



3. Visually inspect the burner - often there will be small holes or bubbles on the surface of a defective element.



4. Now that you have removed the burner, you can test it using your VOM. Using the ohmmeter function, set the range scale to R x 1 and touch the test leads to the two burner terminals. The VOM should show continuity. Typical burner readings should be somewhere between 19 and 115 ohms, depending on the range manufacturer. If there is no continuity, the burner is defective. To test for a grounded (or shorted) burner, place one test lead on the outside surface of the burner and the other test lead on each burner terminal in turn. If there is continuity at either terminal, the burner is defective.



5. If the burner is defective, replace with a new one by reversing the removal procedure (step 2 above). If replacing a wired-in burner, make sure that you install the wires on the correct terminals, according to the wiring diagram

Oven Thermostat Testing:

An oven thermostat is a switch that opens and closes in response to the temperature it senses. It is typically found in the control panel, where a liquid-filled temperature-sensing bulb senses and maintains the internal oven temperature by cycling heat on and off.

1. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!



2. Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model:
   1. On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends.
   2. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components.
   3. Some built-in models have a removable backsplash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the backsplash, which holds the rear panel.
   4. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you.
   5. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.
   
   
   
3. When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced.

   Adjusting the thermostat:
   

4. Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature.



5. If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.

you need to remove the top cover by removing the screws out of the back,then remove the front control panel,then the front door panel and then the lower front access panel,all this needs to be removed to remove the gas line to the burner so you can take the burner tube out to change the gas orfice

You will need to remove the top panel, then the front panel in order to access the dryer interior on this model. With the dryer UNPLUGGED, follow these steps:
1. Locate the screws for the top panel in the REAR of the dryer. With the screws removed, the top panel should slide back, then lift off so you can access the screws holding the front panel in place.
2. Disconnect the door switch connector and any ground wires that may be attached to the front panel. Then, remove the panel screw on each side that holds the front in place. With the screws removed, the panel will lift up, then come off.
You should now have full access to your dryer interior. If you have any questions about this procedure, or if you need additional advice, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.
NOTE: There are helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can assist with disassembling and reassembling your dryer at the following websites:
searspartsdirect.com pcappliancerepair.com appliancepartspros.com

To replace the drain hose, follow these steps:

1. UNPLUG the washer and turn it around so you can access the rear panel.

2. Use a wet/dry shop vac and pull a vacuum on the drain hose. This will remove any existing residual water that remains in the drain line and pump minimizing any mess you may have to clean up later. NOTE: There is about a gallon of residual water that normally remains between the lower wash basket, drain lines and pump.

3. Remove the rear panel by loosening the screws around the perimeter of the back panel. With the screws removed,the panel should lift off. NOTE: There is a smaller access in the center of the back panel that can also be removed. Removing the entire back allows for better access though. Trying to work through the center access can be a cut hazard due to the sharp edges on the metal.

4. Move around the the front of the washer and remove the lower toe panel under the door. You may have to prop up the two front feet of the washer to access the screws under the bottom front edge. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then lift off.

Additionally removing the front toe panel will give you full access to the drain pump from the FRONT and the REAR. The pump sits closer to the front of the washer where you can easily access the hose clamps. The drain hose inserts from the rear, however.

Since you have the washer apart, now would be a good time to check the drain pump clean out trap to ensure there is no debris build up that can restrict drainage. The following link explains the recommended procedures to check the drain pump:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574284-checking_the_drain_pump_on_a_front_loade

If you have any questions about any of this advice, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

HI. There are two areas of concern here. You will need to test each area to isolate the culprit. Use the procedures to assist with the testing of the door, and start switch.

DOOR SWITCH:

The door switch may be accessible without removing the front panel or cabinet. The switch is located in the front panel of the dryer, around the perimeter of the door opening. Inspect the switch to determine if it can be popped out or accessed by removing a fastening screw. If it cannot be accessed from the front, it will be necessary to open the dryer cabinet. When reaching into the dryer be careful of sharp edges on the cabinet and interior supports.

Access varies by model, if your dryer has a lower front panel (kick plate) start there. It should lift up and off or it may be held in place with a few screws or snaps; it may also have a catch at the edges or center gap between the kick panel and main panel. To release the catch, push a putty knife, wrapped with masking tape, into the gap and push back the catch. The next easiest access point is the rear panel. The rear access panel is held in place with several screws along the outer edges. The last resort method of access is the removal of the entire front panel. The front panel supports the front of the drum and so removal is more difficult. Front panel removal varies. In general, access is gained by lifting the top (remove the lint trap screws first), removing the screws that secure the front panel, and detaching the panel from the drum.

Locate the door switch, it typically has two wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the switch, the reading should change to zero.

If the switch does not test as described, it should be replaced.


START SWITCH:

Locate the start switch(Usually located in the control panel housing). it will have two or three wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the start switch, the reading should change to zero.

For a three wire switch, touch one probe to the terminal labeled NC (or CT1) and touch the other probe to the terminal labeled CO (or R1). You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the start switch, the reading should change to zero.

If the switch fails either test, it should be replaced.

HI. This may be a possible belt issue. the belt may have slipped off, or failed. To access, simply, remove the access panel on the rear of the unit. Once removed, you will be able to inspect the belt location.Replace the belt, if needed.

Additionally, if the belt is ok, i would recommend to move on to the door switch. Most units are designed to not spin, if the door switch circuit has failed. Use the procedure below to test this switch.


The door switch may be accessible without removing the front panel or cabinet. The switch is located in the front panel of the dryer, around the perimeter of the door opening. Inspect the switch to determine if it can be popped out or accessed by removing a fastening screw. If it cannot be accessed from the front, it will be necessary to open the dryer cabinet. When reaching into the dryer be careful of sharp edges on the cabinet and interior supports.

Access varies by model, if your dryer has a lower front panel (kick plate) start there. It should lift up and off or it may be held in place with a few screws or snaps; it may also have a catch at the edges or center gap between the kick panel and main panel. To release the catch, push a putty knife, wrapped with masking tape, into the gap and push back the catch. The next easiest access point is the rear panel. The rear access panel is held in place with several screws along the outer edges. The last resort method of access is the removal of the entire front panel. The front panel supports the front of the drum and so removal is more difficult. Front panel removal varies. In general, access is gained by lifting the top (remove the lint trap screws first), removing the screws that secure the front panel, and detaching the panel from the drum.

Locate the door switch, it typically has two wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the switch, the reading should change to zero.

If the switch does not test as described, it should be replaced.

Now, if the door switch is ok, and operational, the motor will be the culprit.

Hi. There are two problem spots that i would inspect to determine the actual issue here. These spots are the door, and start switch.

DOOR SWITCH


The door switch may be accessible without removing the front panel or cabinet. The switch is located in the front panel of the dryer, around the perimeter of the door opening. Inspect the switch to determine if it can be popped out or accessed by removing a fastening screw. If it cannot be accessed from the front, it will be necessary to open the dryer cabinet. When reaching into the dryer be careful of sharp edges on the cabinet and interior supports.

Access varies by model, if your dryer has a lower front panel (kick plate) start there. It should lift up and off or it may be held in place with a few screws or snaps; it may also have a catch at the edges or center gap between the kick panel and main panel. To release the catch, push a putty knife, wrapped with masking tape, into the gap and push back the catch. The next easiest access point is the rear panel. The rear access panel is held in place with several screws along the outer edges. The last resort method of access is the removal of the entire front panel. The front panel supports the front of the drum and so removal is more difficult. Front panel removal varies. In general, access is gained by lifting the top (remove the lint trap screws first), removing the screws that secure the front panel, and detaching the panel from the drum.

Locate the door switch, it typically has two wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the switch, the reading should change to zero.

If the switch does not test as described, it should be replaced.

START SWITCH

Locate the start switch, it will have two or three wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the start switch, the reading should change to zero.

For a three wire switch, touch one probe to the terminal labeled NC (or CT1) and touch the other probe to the terminal labeled CO (or R1). You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the start switch, the reading should change to zero.

If the switch fails either test, it should be replaced.


NOTE:-(Make sure the unit is getting power before you inspect the above areas for faults.)

I have now managed to remove the side panel. The removal of the top was needed before the side could be dealt with. The top remaval is shown in the instructions for the unit. Two ligs at the rear need to be pressed in using a screw driver. The top then will slide to the rear and lifts off. This procedure is for the Siemens model SE25T850GB08 however I suspect that the model this case is attached to would be the same. I've now resolved my issue in this case. I still however have not been able to resolve the water draining problem.

If your dryer has the lint screen on top of the cabinet, the heating circuits are located in the rear of the dryer. They can be accessed by removing the rear panel.

If your dryer has the lint screen in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum. They can be accessed by removing the lower panel under the dryer door. The panel comes off by inserting a putty knife in the seam, about 2 inches in on each side and depressing the release tabs. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet model, the lower panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the lower panel.

If there is no removable panel, the entire front casing needs to come off. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top to gain access to the screws that hold the front panel place. Use care not damage the door switch connector(s) in the process.

Lifting the top panel can be accomplished in the following ways (depending on model):

1. Grab the sides of the top panel and pull towards you while lifting up.

2. Lift the operator console first and then remove the three screws holding the top panel in place. Once the screws are removed the panel slides forward, then off.

I hope this is helpful to you. If you experience problems, please post back with your model number, so I can narow down which dryer configuration you have. Good Luck.