Freezing systems have a few basic sub-assemblies:
1. Cooling system - compressor (black "pot" with tubing and wires coming out of it located underneath in the rear - Item 29 below in the top drawing), compressor starting relay 9item 30),temperature control and all connecting refrigerant tubing.
2. Defrost system (if frost free, which yours is) to intermittently shut off the cooling for approx. 30 minutes, turn on a heater to melt off accumulated frost plus a safety stat to prevent overheats.
3. Fan system to circulate the cold air inside the freezer.
So, with the door closed (or holding in the door switch) does the fan run? If not, bad fan or bad door switch or broken wire or ice buildup preventing fan from turning.
Pulling the freezer away from the wall, (carefully) feel of the compressor, is it hot or warm? Very hot means it's trying to start/run but can't, so it gets hotter and hotter. Warm means it is running and should cool. Cold/room temp means it is not running, nor even trying to start.
Once you know those items you can focus in on the problem area: Cooling problem, air circulation problem or defrost problem. Most likely is defrost problem, second (on a Frigidaire) is a running and trying to cool, but low on refrigerant (leak) and then perhaps a bad compressor relay or fan. Some of these units also had issues with the control module (item 166 in the bottom graphic) and would not supply power to the compressor.
Basically, find out what works, isolate the problem to one of the three basic areas of function, then drill down to the specific item. It's the classic decision tree from school. A basic volt/ohm meter ($20-$40) is a great tool for tracking down these problems. Good luck.
Posted on Mar 06, 2021
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