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I have a Whirlpool dryer only getting 13.7 volts to the heating element. All other thermal cut outs and parts have checked good. Have 90.8 volts coming in on both legs. Jump across and I’m getting 0 volts not 181.06. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Posted by Sammy Crook III on

  • Brad Brown Feb 26, 2021

    Hi Sammy Crook III, I want to help you with your question, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box? What is the model number?

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1028 Answers

SOURCE: replacing Kenmore dryer parts

that one is old enough to vote..if filter on top remove back find small hole on right just below top may be hidden by pasted on tech sheet..through hole insert long socket 5/16 or reach up from underneath with short ratchet and socket remove screws and attached wires lift element housing up slightly and pull bottom of housing out and down..5/16 screw on backside holdes element in

Posted on Jun 19, 2008

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TheMobilian

Dan Webster

  • 8221 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer Model 110

If all of the components are reading ok then you need a timer. Touch your 2 leads together. 0 ohms rght. That means you have a complete circuit.If you get the 0 reading then the element must be otay. Bad timer. Take that fancy meater of yours and atttach one of them leads to the timer leg marked RH. Yank the wire off the terminal beore you test. Move the timer around. You should get the famous 0 reading along the way. If you don't then that means you have the bad timer.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Posted on Feb 05, 2009

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Anonymous

  • 686 Answers

SOURCE: MAYTAG PYE2300AYW ELECTRIC DRYER running but no heating

you need to take it apart if you'd like call 417-926-0106 i'll walk you through it Jim

Posted on Feb 27, 2009

Anonymous

  • 612 Answers

SOURCE: LER4634EQ2 whirlpool electric dryer. heating

I know this might sound stupid but try this. Find your fuse box, locate the breaker that runs your dryer. Flip it off and then back on. If i'm correct, it will work. Everything on your dryer works off of one leg of the 220v. The other leg goes to the other side of the element. If you have a meter. check for 220v at the plug. Everything you listed is what makes the dryer heat other than the thermostats. Check the cycling thermostats like you did the other pieces. They look like the thermal cut off. They have two wires and they are round.

Posted on Oct 10, 2009

jumptrout51

steve

  • 3361 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Dryer not heating

The motor has to be running for voltage to exit the motor going to the heater. With the back off the dryer and the motor running you should read 220 volts at the heater if all safetys and thermostats are good.
There is a thermal cut out relay on the heat canister. It must read continuity also.
Remember you must remove at least one wire from each component being tested to get a true open or closed reading. If a wire is left connected you get a false reading.
The heating element could be broken and part of the heater wire touching the canister. This would cause a continuity reading and still no heat.
Finally, yes,the centrifugal switch in the motor could be bad and not sending power to the heater on the red wire.

Posted on Oct 18, 2009

Testimonial: "I did determine it to be the cetrepetal switch..specifically the slide for the weights was heavily gummed up with dryer belt dust. It works now."

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1 Answer

Whirlpool WED9500CT1


Be sure all controls are set correctly and door closed.

Be sure door switch is good.

Be sure you have 220 volts at power block in dryer.

remove cover and check with voltmeter .

Check heating element with ohmmeter.

Check from heating element to heater box to see if grounded.

Check thermal fuse & thermal cut-off with ohm meter.

Check all thermastats with ohm meter.

Check centrifugal swith, in motor.



Check heating element

Apr 23, 2013 | Whirlpool Dryers

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Whirlpool or Kenmore Dryer Does Not Heat


Electric

First , check the circuit breaker to make sure they are on . Be sure to UNPLUG the dryer , while checking with an ohm meter . When checking WITH power , BEST to have another person available in case of emergency . I do know of 1 person killed while working on his dryer .
A dryer operating on 240 volts , sends 120 volts to the timer and 120 volts to the motor . In between these two , are the thermal cut-off , and the element ( this is the basic operation parts ) . The 120 volts from the motor , goes directly to the element if selected for heat . The timer circuit , sends the other 120 volts , thru the operating thermostats , then thermal fuse , then thermal cut-off , then high-limit thermostat , then to the element . Usually , not ALL the time , the thermal fuse ( number 1 ) is the problem . The heating element ( number 2 ) is usually the problem , if the thermal fuse is good .
If the thermostats , element , and thermal fuse check good with an ohm meter , remove 1 wire from the element and check with a meter , which side is NOT getting 120 volts . Trace the wire which will either go to the timer ( occasionally ) or to the motor ( extremely rare ) .

Gas

On a gas dryer , for no heat , or , heats for a short time then runs but no heat afterwords until cooled down , first check that the electronic igniter , glows red . If it does NOT glow red , then check power to the burner ( 2 wires ) . If no power , then the thermal fuse is bad . (On electric dryers , the thermal fuse keeps the dryer from starting . On gas dryers , it keeps the dryer from heating . The thermal fuse , is a 1" long , or oval , white piece , with 2 wires going to it ) . Also if it does not glow red , the igniter itself could be bad . Again , check with an ohm meter . If the igniter glows red and clicks off , but no gas , the sensor could be bad . This sensor , is mounted to the side of the burner box , and when the igniter gets hot enough to ignite the gas , the sensor opens , sending power to the coils , which open dispensing the gas to heat the dryer . To check the sensor , with the drum removed , start the dryer , and after the igniter gets red , pull one of the wires OFF the sensor , and the gas should ignite . Do this very carefully , as electricity WILL be in the wire pulled off . If the dryer heats for a short time then stops heating , the problem will be the burner coils . These coils will get warm from the electricity going thru them , and will " open " ( short ) internally , until they cool down . Then heat again for a short time , then open , until cooled .
Most of the time , either the thermal fuse ( 1 ) or the coils are bad ( 2 ) or the igniter is bad ( 3 ) .

........A thermal fuse is a white 1" long torpedo looking piece , or , a white oval shaped piece , with 2 wires going to it .

NOTE1 : The thermal fuse keeps an electric dryer from starting and keeps a gas dryer from heating .

NOTE2 : If your dryer heats but the clothes do not dry , then a venting problem is obvious , as a dryer either heats or doesn't heat . Pull the dryer out and disconnect the vent from the dryer . Dry a load of clothes and if/when they dry in the normal amount of time , this tells you either the vent hose is kinked , maybe pushed back too far , or , the outside vent is blocked , or , the vent in the wall is restricted to the outside .

Electric Dryers

NOTE3 : If your lint screen is on top of the dryer , the element , thermal fuse , and thermostats are behind the rear dryer panel ....If the lint screen is behind the dryer door , then the element , thermal fuse ( located behind the lint screen housing ( 2 screws ) , and thermostats , are located behind the lower front panel .

on Apr 17, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Model LEQ9508PW1. It has stopped getting hot. Just stopped putting out any heat. I assume that it is probably the heating element that has gone out. Is there anything else I should check first before...


Check first the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat located on the heating element housing by bypassing the said components. Disconnect power then remove the rear access panel to access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect the power then start the dryer. The problem is in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make.

jahn27_43.jpg

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat up with the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat both bypassed. If the dryer still doesn't heat up, take the heating element out and inspect it for damage. Replace the heating element if damaged.

Jan 18, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore 90 Plus series model 78932790 will not stay running, will not heat up


Hi,


On your model, you work on everything from the front.
If your dryer is getting 220/240 volts and just runs and no heat, then its either your thermal cut-off or element thats bad.
This link will guide you to how to take it apart to access your thermal cut-off thermostat on the heater housing and heater itself:

http://www.applianceaid.com/whirlpool-dryers.html#four

Please leave me comment, if you need further assistance
THanks for using FiXYa
Rnj VinodKumar

Apr 06, 2010 | Dryers

2 Answers

Dryer drum will turn but not heat up any suggestions? purchased a ohm meter and removed the back panel not sure how to test for continuity(power has been disconnected!) Fairly new dryer please help


If the model number is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php

The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 6)
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 20)
Thermal Fuse (Item 19)

If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of heat related problems: 1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out 2. Missing 1/2 your input voltage at the wall receptacle (the dryer will still run with half the voltage missing, but won't heat - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers. 3. Bad power cord, causing 1/2 the input voltage to be missing. 4. Blown heating element. Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions, or need further assistance. I hope you find this information helpful. NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Mar 30, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

4 Answers

Electric dryer doesn't heat.


Probably a bad heating element. There are a few different styles, you'll just need to lookup your model number on an appliance parts website, find the right part, and then do a quick search on replacement. There are probably ten or fifteen websites that have instructions to replace heating elements.

Here's one where you can buy the part, the element is part number 17.

http://www.appliance-parts-warehouse.com/whirlpool-parts/Whirlpool-Dryer-Parts/Whirlpool-Parts-LER3624EQ1/Whirlpool-Parts-81777.cfm

Jan 15, 2010 | Dryers

2 Answers

Whirlpool Dryer not heating


The motor has to be running for voltage to exit the motor going to the heater. With the back off the dryer and the motor running you should read 220 volts at the heater if all safetys and thermostats are good.
There is a thermal cut out relay on the heat canister. It must read continuity also.
Remember you must remove at least one wire from each component being tested to get a true open or closed reading. If a wire is left connected you get a false reading.
The heating element could be broken and part of the heater wire touching the canister. This would cause a continuity reading and still no heat.
Finally, yes,the centrifugal switch in the motor could be bad and not sending power to the heater on the red wire.

Oct 18, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My dryer runs but no heat . model 110.68932792 . Kenmore 90 plus series type DDOT ELE2406028 EH54


you either have a bad element or thermal cut out is bad check for 220 volts at the element if you dont have 220 then the thermal is bad if you do have it the element is bad i can get you them parts.... whirlpoolpartssurplus.com

Jun 25, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Whirlpool LER5636EZ3 dryer won't heat


hi If it reads 0 hms yes thats te problem Thanks the appliance doc

Sep 12, 2008 | Whirlpool LER8648P Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Thermal cutout


If there's no continuity, replace it. The Thermal Cut-Out should read a short if it is good. This could very well be the cause of your heating problem. Make sure you replace the hi-limit thermostat at the same time. Without doing so, one or the other often go bad again. Whirlpool sells the parts as a set and can be found at searpartsdirect.com. I hope this helps you. Let me know if you need further assistance.

PS Double check the heating element too. Disconnect the leads and take a resistance check at the terminals. If good, it will read between 9 and 13 ohms.

May 23, 2008 | Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

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