Question about Whirlpool Dryers
SOURCE: replacing Kenmore dryer parts
that one is old enough to vote..if filter on top remove back find small hole on right just below top may be hidden by pasted on tech sheet..through hole insert long socket 5/16 or reach up from underneath with short ratchet and socket remove screws and attached wires lift element housing up slightly and pull bottom of housing out and down..5/16 screw on backside holdes element in
Posted on Jun 19, 2008
SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer Model 110
If all of the components are reading ok then you need a timer. Touch your 2 leads together. 0 ohms rght. That means you have a complete circuit.If you get the 0 reading then the element must be otay. Bad timer. Take that fancy meater of yours and atttach one of them leads to the timer leg marked RH. Yank the wire off the terminal beore you test. Move the timer around. You should get the famous 0 reading along the way. If you don't then that means you have the bad timer.
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Posted on Feb 05, 2009
I know this might sound stupid but try this. Find your fuse box, locate the breaker that runs your dryer. Flip it off and then back on. If i'm correct, it will work. Everything on your dryer works off of one leg of the 220v. The other leg goes to the other side of the element. If you have a meter. check for 220v at the plug. Everything you listed is what makes the dryer heat other than the thermostats. Check the cycling thermostats like you did the other pieces. They look like the thermal cut off. They have two wires and they are round.
Posted on Oct 10, 2009
SOURCE: Whirlpool Dryer not heating
The motor has to be running for voltage to exit the motor going to the heater. With the back off the dryer and the motor running you should read 220 volts at the heater if all safetys and thermostats are good.
There is a thermal cut out relay on the heat canister. It must read continuity also.
Remember you must remove at least one wire from each component being tested to get a true open or closed reading. If a wire is left connected you get a false reading.
The heating element could be broken and part of the heater wire touching the canister. This would cause a continuity reading and still no heat.
Finally, yes,the centrifugal switch in the motor could be bad and not sending power to the heater on the red wire.
Posted on Oct 18, 2009
Testimonial: "I did determine it to be the cetrepetal switch..specifically the slide for the weights was heavily gummed up with dryer belt dust. It works now."
Tips for a great answer:
Be sure all controls are set correctly and door closed.
Be sure door switch is good.
Be sure you have 220 volts at power block in dryer.
remove cover and check with voltmeter .
Check heating element with ohmmeter.
Check from heating element to heater box to see if grounded.
Check thermal fuse & thermal cut-off with ohm meter.
Check all thermastats with ohm meter.
Check centrifugal swith, in motor.
Check heating element
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