Question about Dishwashers
Checked drain pipes and all clear
Try looking for slithers of glass etc under the impeller. Remove the sump covers (filters) and look into the bottom. There will probably be a small cover held down by a screw. Under this is the impeller. Roll up a hand towel into a cigarette shape and slide this under the impeller - that should clear anything out.
Posted on Apr 17, 2008
SOURCE: Bosch WFF1800 - not spinning
move the kicking plate on the front-bottom of the machine. You will see o circular lid there, turn it on anti-clockvise to open. All of the water blocked will come from there, be careful. Look carefully that there are some objects blocking the water draining. Then turn on the machine on draining programme, the plastic rotor should turn fastly when the machine is on. If it is not running, change the pump motor. If it is running, but machine is not draining again you can understand that there is an objeck stuck on the hose between drum and pump motor. Lay down the machine on its rear facade, you will see a large and black hose between drum and pump motor. When you remove it, you will see that there is something that blocks water running.
thank you for using fixya,rate my answer,
Posted on Oct 04, 2009
Do the following.
4. Proceed by checking the drain hose for proper connection and kinks and make sure that it is not blocked.
5. Also check that the main waste drain pipe, if you use one, is not blocked and clean if required.
6. Reconnect the power and switch the machine on.
If the problem persists then do the following.
7. Switch off the machine and disconnect the mains power.
8. Check the electrical connections at the pump and make sure it is operational.
9. Remove the connecting hoses, and expect water to drain out and make sure the pipes are not blocked with debris or any object blockage.
10. Makes sure the pump appears clear and that the impeller looks in good condition.
11. Reconnect the hoses and then reconnect power and switch the machine on.
12. If problem has not been corrected, then remove the pump and check that the drive coupling to the motor is OK and that the motor turns OK. If all is well then replace the pump.
Posted on Oct 23, 2009
The most common cause of the problem you just described is a lid switch malfunction or lid strike (actuator) problem. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, stopping right after the wash cycle, not advancing to rinse or spin cycles, and a wash tub that will not drain.
The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike" or "Actuator") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because it does NOT have a lid strike (actuator) and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This type of switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator rod by bending it slightly.
NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.
Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:
The average price of a replacement lid switch is about $25 - $35 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices will vary between sites so shop and compare. The lid switch part number for the model you have listed is 3949247. The lid strike (actuator) is 358684.
Another cause of a no drain issue can be a clogged drain pump or drain line. The following link explains how to access the drain pump and replace (if necessary):
These pumps are strictly mechanical (no electrical connections) and have one moving part - the impeller. You will need to remove the drain lines to inspect the pump interior as these pumps do not come apart. Check the drain lines and impeller area for any lodged items.
CAUTION: You will need to drain the wash tub PRIOR to removing any of the drain lines. A quick and easy way is to use a wet/dry shop vac to remove the water. If you do not own a shop vac, simple gravity will work by placing the drain hose on the ground and allowing the water to run out. If this is not feasible because of the washer location, you will need to bail.
If you need to replace the pump the part number for the model you listed this question under is 3363394. If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. This is a very simple repair that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman.
If this advice does not help you enough, repairclinic.com has a Repair Manual you can order to assist you with all your repairs. The part number is 1170635 and is priced at about $20.
Searspartsdirect.com also has a repair manual for about the same price. Part number 4314044L. I hope this information is helpful to you.
Posted on Jul 24, 2010
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