Aquastar 1600H. Why is there no spark?

That voltage does not seem high enough. Supposed to be 1.6 VAC and I got 2.5 VAC. Do you have the water flow turned to the maximum? Is there something blocking water flow? The hydro voltage should be checked separetly from everything else, so if you can't get the VAC higher, my guess would be that's the problem.

If your getting a spark the generator should be ok I would clean the pilot injector and re try

If there is not a clicking sound, it almost always means the main ignition or control unit (box with red and green lights and wires coming from it) is not getting the supply voltage. The voltage is supplied by a generator that is getting energy from the flow of water (the "hydro generator"). First disconnect the wire connector at the hydogenerator and check the voltage while water is running. The manual says you should read 1.6 VAC (I read 2.5 VAC). Make sure your voltage reader is on AC, not DC. If you have at least something like 1 VAC, then the next thing to check is the "microswitch" that allows the hydro generator voltage to reach the ignition unit. To check it, disconnect the other wire connector that is on the black wire coming from the hydrogenerator that is closer to the ignition unit. Then with the water running, stick a small screwdriver in the male plug side to short the two wires in order to bypass the microswitch (per Bosch tech support instructions). You should now here clicking and see the unit work. This is what happened with me and tech support said I needed to order a new microswitch and gave me a part number and telephone. But don't stop reading here. You can see the microswitch when looking up at the underneath of the unit. It's a small white 1x1 inch box-like shape held by 1 screw. After removing it, I noticed the microswitch had a removable cover (which is strange for a switch) and opened it to discover the internal switch can actually move inside because it "automatically adjusts" itself when it is first put in (it stays more firmly, but not rigidly in place when the cover is on). So you can mess up when putting it in. Don't bump it. It can easily get out of its working range of motion, which is why mine stopped working: it was a bad design to use this type switch in this application. So I slide the internal switch back close to the spring side ("default" position), put the cover back on, carefulyl screwed it in place, and now it works.

The purpose of the mechanical microswitch is to not allow the hydroenerator voltage to the ignition unit unless the "pushrod" has opened the main gas supply. It prevents clicking if there is no supply gas, so it is not needed (you can electrically bypass it with a splice) if everything else is working fine. But don't blame me if you do this and for some reason it ruins the more expensive ignition unit. The microswitch is turned on by the pushrod when the pushrod leaves it's default position. The the pushrod moves only about 2 to 3 mm when you turn on the water. You can see the pushrod when you unscrew the microswitch, and you can watch it move. The problem is that the microswitch mounting is not precise enough for the small pushrod movement and the pushrod's default position can change with age of the diaphragm or change in the grease. So their automatically adjusting microswitch that makes up for lack of precision in design and pushrod movement can stop working when the pushrod changes position. My unit was 2 years old.

try to check if theres available inverter compatible for your generator...

If there is not a clicking sound, it almost always means the main ignition or control unit (box with red and green lights and wires coming from it) is not getting the supply voltage. The voltage is supplied by a generator that is getting energy from the flow of water (the "hydro generator"). First disconnect the wire connector at the hydogenerator and check the voltage while water is running. The manual says you should read 1.6 VAC (I read 2.5 VAC). Make sure your voltage reader is on AC, not DC. If you have at least something like 1 VAC, then the next thing to check is the "microswitch" that allows the hydro generator voltage to reach the ignition unit. To check it, disconnect the other wire connector that is on the black wire coming from the hydrogenerator that is closer to the ignition unit. Then with the water running, stick a small screwdriver in the male plug side to short the two wires in order to bypass the microswitch (per Bosch tech support instructions). You should now here clicking and see the unit work. This is what happened with me and tech support said I needed to order a new microswitch and gave me a part number and telephone. But don't stop reading here. You can see the microswitch when looking up at the underneath of the unit. It's a small white 1x1 inch box-like shape held by 1 screw. After removing it, I noticed the microswitch had a removable cover (which is strange for a switch) and opened it to discover the internal switch can actually move inside because it "automatically adjusts" itself when it is first put in (it stays more firmly, but not rigidly in place when the cover is on). So you can mess up when putting it in. Don't bump it. It can easily get out of its working range of motion, which is why mine stopped working: it was a bad design to use this type switch in this application. So I slide the internal switch back close to the spring side ("default" position), put the cover back on, carefulyl screwed it in place, and now it works.

The purpose of the mechanical microswitch is to not allow the hydroenerator voltage to the ignition unit unless the "pushrod" has opened the main gas supply. It prevents clicking if there is no supply gas, so it is not needed (you can electrically bypass it with a splice) if everything else is working fine. But don't blame me if you do this and for some reason it ruins the more expensive ignition unit. The microswitch is turned on by the pushrod when the pushrod leaves it's default position. The the pushrod moves only about 2 to 3 mm when you turn on the water. You can see the pushrod when you unscrew the microswitch, and you can watch it move. The problem is that the microswitch mounting is not precise enough for the small pushrod movement and the pushrod's default position can change with age of the diaphragm or change in the grease. So their automatically adjusting microswitch that makes up for lack of precision in design and pushrod movement can stop working when the pushrod changes position. My unit was 2 years old.

Possible flow sensor issue. Check to see if your water pressure fluctuates a lot or is fairly steady. These units are sensitive to the pressure. take care.

need more propane?

sounds like blockage pilot jet nipple needs cleaned best of luck

Look at the manual to see what code E4 is

I hope this helps!
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