SOURCE: Not sure if my first try worked so will try again.
The easiest thing to do would be to call Bosch and just ask for a new heater for free. The other option is to call Bosch and have them send you all new elements. If there is power, there should be heat of some kind.
SOURCE: my hot water heater fuse
I can make a couple of suggestions of things to check but the unit may require service and/or repalcement depending on age and what is wrong with it. If you feel comfortable with pulling the inspection panel(s) of your tank you can do so by first, make sure power is off to unit. The reason why I say this is, because sometimes the elements can leak just enough to create a short between the terminals of the heating element or, cause a short in the thermostat. Depending on the size of your unit, you should have one or two rectangular panels on the side of your tank, taht are held in place by two screws. If you remove the screws from the panels, you may have a piece of insulation covering the thermostat and heating element. If these are wet or you notice rust or can see a leak, you have found your problem. If the unit seems dry, if you feel so inclined, you can try disconnecting the wires from each thermostat, one at a time and try to reset power, if the power stays on you more than likely have a bad thermostat. If you have not cured your problem doing this, you can then try disconnecting each thermostat one at a time(with power off), then try to reset. At least one of, if not both of the thermostats will have a red reset button that you can try to push and reset. You can find your problem through a process of eleimination.
SOURCE: I have a powerstar ae115
You've done the required first-step troubleshooting and maintenance.
If thermal cutout keeps tripping, and unit is actually reaching 185, then something is wrong with wiring, temperature sensor, gas valve, or PC board. Or combination of factors.
Call service technician, and open following link for some Bosch tankless resources including Bosch contact information:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Bosch-Tankless-water-heater.html
SOURCE: PowerStar AE125 seems to have failed
the circuit board is gone bad, try this, with power off reset the overload on the heater.Turn power back on and turn on water to the unit. with no taps open hold the pipe near the left element for a few minutes. it will most likely getting verry hot and trip the overload.(this is done with no water running and power on to the unit).you may even hear the water in the left elemnet start to boil or sizle. the reason for this is the triacs on the cir board are bad.I have troubleshoot this troblem many times. the design is bad and their in now a new unit (redesign) out . bosch knows their junk and wont cover them beyond 1 yr. one way around it is call tech at bosch and tell them its leaking. the u will get one of the new designs. Also applies to the AE125, Rp27pt
Heating water can peculate chemicals out of water, such as metals and organics.
Especially above 138 degrees.
Have well water tested.
Turn down thermostat temperature.
Or reasonably harmless well-water bacteria can react with anode rod, or other reaction in softener, to produce colored water, and smells.
Different water can produce different sludges, brown, red, gray, black, yellow.
The sludge can also combine with deteriorating pipe flakes to clog water flow.
Sludge can accumulate over years in low spots in pipes, or at elbows and constrictions.
Have plumber flush pipes.
Or run new pipes.
Also delime tankless yearly, and flush with white vinegar as shown in product manual, and treat bacteria with H2O2 hydrogen peroxide.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Bosch_Descaling-heat-exchanger.pdf
If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7
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