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1036. How can I open the case to replace the drive belt?

I have the bottom removed and I found one screw underneath for the right side but can not slide off to get to the drive belt inside

Posted by Alan Snyder on

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Anonymous

SOURCE: Samsung v20 disassembly

After removing the screws, lift the keypad by releasing the two latches just below the ALT key and WINDOWS key. Two more screws are hidden beneath the keyboard. Hope this helps

Posted on Sep 05, 2007

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: How to open case of Acoustimass module

Just a bit more info...a bit more detail
Remove the two screws from the case at the back.
Sit the unit in normal upright position. Use a good torch and look at the back of the unit along the top seam where the plastic case joins the main body - there are three latches to disengage along this seam.
1. The thumbwheel which turns to the left & exposes the tab. This disengages a simple Tee'd section on the wheel which stops the case sliding down. As long as you can see the tab this is disengaged.
2 & 3. On the far left & far right of the seam are simple lever latches which must be pushed back towards the main body to allow the rear case to slide down. Push these in then the case will slide down quite easily.


Posted on Feb 07, 2009

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Anonymous

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Singer 7442 How to get inside ?

http://www.scribd.com/doc/3713782/Singer-7442-Sewing-Machine-Manual heres your manual, good luck!

Posted on May 13, 2009

Joseph Howard

  • 753 Answers

SOURCE: Removing the door panel from a 97 Chevy S-10 pu truck

The center section does come out it has little tabs front and rear you have to bend it very carfully.GOOD LUCK

Posted on Sep 16, 2009

Testimonial: "Guru thanks, that worked. Panel off but can't access the back side of the exterior door handle to replace the screws that hold it on? Any ideas? "

Anonymous

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: How to open case: Seagate ST3160203U2RK External Hard Drive ??

This is one of the mean tricks that the industry uses to discourage people from opening things and then totally ruining them.

What about getting yourself a 5-star-shaped screwdriver? Ask your hardware store guy.

Too expensive? Well - I have a lot of different simple slotted screwdrivers. Normally I find one that fits into 2 corners of these "miracle screws". If you don't have fitting one use a cheap one that is slightly too large to fit and grind it down just to size.

The same trick works with the other kind of "discouragement screws" that have ALMOST a normal slot --- but there's an elevation in the middle of it. A slot screwdriver with a ground-in **** in the middle (Dremel tools work fine) does the trick.

Posted on Sep 24, 2009

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Concerning 1970s 830 Bernina. There is no motor sound..nothing. Are the carbon brushes in the pedal?


The 830 models varied so I'm not sure. My machine looks like this:

Bernina 830 sewing machine feet pedal accessory box table instruction...

If you scroll over to the photo of the motor, there is a white plug which pulls out. Underneath, there is a screw. The carbon brush may be there. However, some 830s had the speed switch on the machine (right above the knee control) and others have it in the foot pedal.

I found the following information in my computer files that may be helpful: Bernina 830 Motor Brush Replacement

My machine is actually a Bernina 830 (mechanical 34 years old) I need to know how to get the housing off the motor so my hubby can replace the brushes

Re: sewng machine motor housing

DISASSEMBLY TO INSPECT OR CHANGE BERNINA 830 MOTOR BRUSHES:

Remove the big plastic cover piece on the bottom of the machine with the single screw in the center.

Remove the machine's end panel by removing the single silver screw from underneath the bottom middle of the side panel. Pull the bottom of the side panel out and down to remove it. It comes off easily.

Remove the two screws under the motor assembly (silver screws with black washers).

Swivel the motor assembly enough to remove the belt.
There is a another plastic panel on the motor assembly over the motor itself. Remove the two phillips head screws to remove this panel.

At this point you can see the commutator and inspect the "business" ends of the brushes. (In our case, one brush was almost gone and there was nothing left of the second brush except the spring!)

You can then slide the motor out of the housing. I pushed on the motor pulley and pulled on the other end of the motor with pliers. The motor comes out rather easily, but be careful not to disturb the wires any more than necessary.

With the motor exposed, unscrew the caps over the brushes and remove the brushes.

Our motor's commutator looks significantly worn and the motor may need to be replaced.
===============


FWIW, if your machine hasn't been oiled for a long time, you should probably take time to do that. When the old oil solidifies, it sticks the moving parts together. Forcing the motor to try to run the machine can damage the machine. Use fresh good quality sewing machine oil or (I use) liquid Tri-Flow Synthetic Lube and apply a couple drops every place metal rubs on metal. (Wiggle the handwheel and watch where things move.) Do NOT oil belts, synthetic gears, cams.



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