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I am having an issue with my kenmore elite dryer model 417.8110. I have replace the blower fan a few months back and then the heating element and the thermostat about a week ago and ever since my dryer will dry for a while then show a CE code. Sometimes it will run with the CE code flashing, sometimes it will shut off completely. Tonight, it won’t even heat anymore and the dryer keeps shutting down. Can someone help me troubleshoot?

Posted by Alecia on

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5 Related Answers

Dave

  • 35 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Heavy Duty King Size Capacity Quiet Pack II Dryer shuts off

If the venting is clogged this will happen. And that is a good thing because it is a safety measure built in to prevent fires. There is a thermostat that can tell when your dryer is over-heating,(usually caused by clogged venting by lint) and this devise tells the heating element to turn off so as not to create a fire. Clean out venting, inspect thermostats and element, replace if neccesary. You may only have to clean out the venting.

Posted on Dec 09, 2007

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Anonymous

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer shuts off after a few minutes

THE KENMORE DRYER I HAVE... IF REN IN THE COTTON CYCLE IT WILL RUN FOR 50 MINUTES AND SHUT OFF. ITS BOLWING HOT AIR AND THE OTHER CYCLES SEEM TO WORK FINE WITH OUT SHUTING DOWN SO ID APPRECIATE A TIP ON WHAT THIS PROBLEM COULD BE

Posted on Nov 02, 2008

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Anonymous

  • 24 Answers

SOURCE: RUUD (Protech Model 500) Thermostat Single Stage Not Programable

problem is not the thermostat, thermostat is an on-off switch that happens to work on temperature. Your furnace is locking out. cycling the heat off switch resets the micro-processor in the furnace. You need to diagnose the problem in the furnace, to go further we will need the model and approximate age of the unit

Posted on Dec 18, 2008

pescidog

  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: Ruud furnace Model URKA A030jK08 Code opt 589

sounds like the circuit running to your condenser powers your furnace. when u disconnect power to the furnace it will reset and run the blower on startup. check the tube connecting the vacuum switch to the induced draft motor. maybe a leak. good luck

Posted on Nov 24, 2009

hunter19_46m

Curtis Sewell

  • 7482 Answers

SOURCE: We have a 10 year old Kenmore elite dryer. We

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Posted on Dec 11, 2010

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1 Answer

My Kenmore Elite HE4 dryer keeps shutting off after a few minutes.


are u saying it shuts down or just stops heating? if it shuts down u may have bad motor windings and or brushes and motor is burning out if its stops heating that is usually due to bad moister sensor, cycling thermostat ( which would not usually shut appliance off though), short in heating element, defective hi limit thermostat etc and of course u already said u cleaned lint and ducts? including the blower? if its blocked with lint u have a shut off issue

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Hi,


Thank you for contacting Fixya.com.


Sometimes dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.


Also check the bellow links related to your issue:-


http://www.davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm


http://www.ehow.com/how_5112087_replace-kenmore-elite-electric-dryer.html


Please get back to us if you have any further query.


Have a nice day.


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1 Answer

Hi, I have a Kenmore Elite electric dryer model#


If your fuse is blown could be that your operating thermastat is not shuting off as soon as it should. Try replacing the fuse and the operating thermastat. The fuse would probaly blow before the hi limit.

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My Kenmore elite electric dryer will not heat. I


Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. No Heat issue in an electric dryer is usually caused due to three things mainly: Thermal Fuse, Wiring Harness and/or Heating Element. Start with checking the Thermal Fuse which is mounted inside the back cover panel to the exhaust duct and is mounted in white plastic housing. If that’s fine then the Heating Element should be checked. Please do rate the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


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1 Answer

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Check the following to address this issue.




1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

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You may want to check if the heating element needs replacing. Most Dryers have 2 heating elements that are found by taking the back off, some of the newer dryers have 3.

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Getting the heating element casing back on to the back of a Kenmore elite dryer Model#11063942101


there are slots in the casing that slide down on tabs comeing out of the dryer. put the top part of the casing in then put the bottom part in and slide down on the tabs

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3 Answers

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If the dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat, any of the following components could be bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.


If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry clothes properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced.
Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.
Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door:

a. Remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side.
b. On models with no lower kick panel, lift the dryer top and remove the screws that hold the front panel in place.
c. The Kenmore Elite & Whirlpool Duet have a couple of screws under the bottom edge of the panel under the door that you need to remove.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two RED leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set.


I hope this information is helpful to you. Post back with comments if you have any further questions.

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