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Nikon FM2n Shutter fires when winding.

I have a Nikon FM2n that has developed an issue that only happens when the camera hasn't been used recently. This can be a week or just over 24hrs. The issue is when you wind the film on - the shutter will automatically fire as if it was taking a photo which will result in a wasted frame on the roll of film. I have recorded a video of this happening and it is when you have wound the lever all the way on then when the lever is on the way back after the full function of winding the film on has been completed - the shutter will fire. When you go to wind it on again, it will behave as per normal.

Posted by RhysA on

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Anonymous

SOURCE: Canon 580ex "pops" in a baad way

It is very dangerous though... [referring to Alexander's solution]... I've been shocked more times than I care to really admit, and that cap can cause some serious damage. Be careful!

Lance.

Posted on Aug 07, 2008

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Steve5

Steve Grezoux

  • 423 Answers

SOURCE: Nikon EM (1979?) Won't wind film, photos don't come out

Not necessarily. The EM has an M90 setting which will fire the shutter at 1/90th of a second. The meter is inactive on this setting. It was put on the EM so that if the batteries fail, you can shoot at 1/90th and take a guess at the exposure. There is also a small button (blue or chrome, depending on the production run) which lights up a red LED if the batteries are good. The light meter doesn't work until the frame counter is at 1 or higher. Before the #1, the shutter will always fire at 1/2000th of a second to speed up the film loading process. You can tell that the meter is working by observing the meter's scale/needle on the inside of the viewfinder. If it is pointing out of the red zone, it's OK to shoot (proper exposure). If the needle is in the red zone (indicating under or over exposure) the camera will "beep" as an audible warning. Check the battery condition first.

Posted on Mar 16, 2009

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mastertech48

Richard C Cohen

  • 171 Answers

SOURCE: ETR film counter resets mid roll when shutter is depressed.

Hello. 35mm cameras back in the day used to suffer from this irritating problem. There is a small button that is pressed by the door edge when you close the back. Due to age(flexing and slop) that occurs with normal wear, the metal edge becomes ever-so-slightly bent, resulting in a less-than-needed pressure on this button. The button, when held properly by the back, captures a little internal gear mounted on the film counter dial--preventing its spring-loaded return. When you remove the back to re-load film, the counter immediately jumps back to "start". As the film advances, the roll increases in size and pressure against the door, causing the symptom. Go to a camera store with knowledgeable sales people and you might find one who knows how to re-work the back just-so to fix it. To be absolutely sure, however, you'll need to buy another back.
On some medium-format cams, there is a little raised "bump" on the edge of the door that precisely matches up to the position of the button. If this is the case, and you are careful, it can be gently but firmly squeezed to make it stick out more, increasing the pressure on the counter button.---Rick

Posted on Sep 17, 2009

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Anyway,if it is a Nikon FM2/T FM-2 TITAN version it is about 700 USD
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www.ebay.com
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I have a nikon fm2 and everything seems to work fine but when i get the film developed, my film comes back blank?


In that case you probably have a shutter fault. (Blank film is unexposed film, but if it's black film then report back as the causes will be different). The other possible causes would be that the film has either failed to engage on the take up spool or that the film has engaged but is not being wound on by the take-up spool, this could happen if the rewind lock button has got stuck (but then the rewind crank would not turn when you advance the film and the rewind action would be *very* brief). Another cause is that the mirror fails to flip up during exposure, but then your camera would sound very different and you'd notice that the viewfinder doesn't black out during exposure. As you didn't mention any of these obvious signs, I'll continue with the shutter.

Rewind any film and open the camera back. Remove the lens. Use the film advance lever to set the shutter. Hold the camera up to the light and press the shutter release button. If you don't see any light then it's a faulty shutter. You may wish to repeat the test at all shutter speeds including the B setting. If the shutter proves to be fine, then try again with the lens attached (remember to remove the lens cap, and set the aperture to it's widest setting). If the fault only occurs with the lens attached then it's a lens fault if it only happens with that one lens, and a different fault within the body if it's with all lenses.

If everything proves negative and you find no fault, then check with the last lab you used to see if they have an equipment fault. If the film is totally blank with not even any frame numbers, brand name nor bar codes present then it's been chemically bleached out

The FM2 has an entirely mechanical shutter which is usually highly reliable, and it's a model which I've very rarely encountered any serious faults on. Every fault I've had to deal on them with has been caused by abuse, lack of servicing, or simply where an example has clearly been so heavily used that it has worn out. As the batteries are used for metering only, the battery box and light meter can be ruled out as possible causes leaving you with a purely mechanical fault.

This is good as it means your FM2 is very likely to be repairable, but it's not a DIY repair. If your example has had a very long and hard life and is looking very battered, then let it finally rest in pieces(!), but otherwise I suggest that you book your camera in for a CLA service (Clean, Lubricate, Adjust).

Your FM2 will be anywhere between nine and twenty eight years old, so if you're lucky the fault is just due to dried out gummed up lubricants. If you're unlucky then many parts are still available new from Nikon and there are millions of them in circulation so used parts are widely available. Any experienced camera repair technician will be very familiar with the FM2. I'd strongly suggest that you take the chance to get the foam light seals and mirror buffer replaced at the same time as if they haven't already turned into a corrosive black goo then they soon will; it's a one-off job and modern materials will last the lifetime of the camera.

You need to be aware that you're looking at spending a minimum of £80-£90 for repairs (more if parts must be replaced) and this exceeds the price of a used FM2. But even if you buy a used example, it's still going to need the CLA and seals unless there is reliable proof that it has been done recently by a professional technician. For what you may need to invest there is simply nothing else which comes anywhere close to the build quality of an FM2 and once serviced it should be good for many more years of use (although I'd recommend a CLA every few years).

A fully serviced FM2 in good condition is one of the few 35mm SLR's which is still in great demand, and so will be worth around £180 if sold privately. At that price, most repairs will be economically viable.

If you're in the UK then I can highly recommend A J Johnston for Nikon repairs, current turnaround time for most FM2 issues is about ten days.

I hope that my reply has been of assistance, if so then please take a moment to rate my answer.


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