MW512. Why does pump start as soon as mains power applied?

could be something stopping the pump from working,, the water control is leaking allowing water to come in while spinning, outlet hose from pump blocked/kinked
and not reaching full spinning speed ( overloaded wash)

The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.

Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.

If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.

You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.

If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.

If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.

Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.

The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.

Error "i30" means that water remains in base because leakage or overflow. In this case, in order to prevent flooding, drain pump running continuously.
When we talk about AEG dishwasher, drain pump works even the power is turned off (must be connected to the wall outlet, otherwise anti-flooding system will not work).
The noise what you heard during operation indicates that something is blocking the drain pump.
Remedy: you should first remove the water from the bottom of the dishwasher and determine leakage then check why the drain pump makes noise.

If you work around the dishwasher, you always take care that appliance must be disconnected from the power supply.

Good luck.
Dado

This means the flood circuit is triggered. There is a leak in the dishwasher causing water to collect in the motor chamber. The leak is usually through the door seals or broken hose. Disconnect mains electric and water connections and pull dishwasher out from under kitchen bench. Tilt it from side to side to get the water out from under the base. Wait a little for water to dry up. Reconnect mains power and turn on to see if pump stops running. As mentioned source of leak needs to be fixed.

Disconnect from power & Bail out all the water you can before removing pump.

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Set the controls to off then power off at the mains for 30 mins and then power mains back on and run a drain program or a full wash program. If the water won’t drain away then the most likely problems are the door interlock switch is faulty, the drain water motor is faulty, there is a blockage in the drain outlet pipe or filter – this will need unblocking, there is a blockage in the water pump – this will need to be unblocked, the controller board is faulty – but this generally shows an error code. First turn off the mains power to the dishwasher then check the internal filter and screen and clean it thoroughly. Then check the waste water hose and any outlet valve and make sure that it is unblocked and free of any obstruction or waste material. If you have access to the water pump you can check that it is free of obstruction and is able to turn and that none of the impeller vanes have been damaged. Then if all this is OK then try turning on the mains power and running a hot wash cleaning cycle to flush out any remaining sludge / debris.

HI CHECK THESE....
Step 1: Make sure the washer is receiving power. Check the cord, the plug, and the outlet. If a wall switch controls the outlet, make sure the switch is working. Look for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers at the main entrance panel. If the unit is receiving power and still won't run, press the reset button on the control panel (if the washer has one).
Step 1: Make sure the washer is receiving power. Check the cord, the plug, and the outlet. If a wall switch controls the outlet, make sure the switch is working. Look for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers at the main entrance panel. If the unit is receiving power and still won't run, press the reset button on the control panel (if the washer has one).
Step 3: Make sure that both water faucets are turned on and that the drain and soap-saver return hoses are properly extended, without kinks. If the washer has a water-saver button, make sure the button is depressed; water may not circulate through the filter nozzle if the basket is not full and the button is not depressed.
Step 4: To make sure the water is the proper temperature, check the temperature selector switches on the control panel to make sure they're properly set. Also check the water heater temperature control. It should be set no lower than 120 degrees F.

THANKS

try to diconnect the heater and run the unit.