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Re: GE DSS25KSRD side-by-side temp control does not...
If you are talking F then that is too low at -10, F? is what is required. If C then the FF (whatever that means) at 40C is too hot and -20 is about right for a freezer.
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you have a few things that could be wrong, a bad thermistor, a bad air defuser, or a bad main board. changing the thermistor could fix it but if not, i would call a pro that order the right part. lots of varibles.
Hows the temp in the fridge side? this could be just going through the auto defrost cycle. It will get warm to melt off the ice on the evaporator coils. Heat rises so it will get warmer at the top. After the defrost cycle, all should return to normal. Make sure the fan runs too. I suspect this is normal... unless your food is thawing out.
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The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper)
between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it.
Make sure this fan is running. You may have to hold the door switch in for it
to run. There is a flap you adjust with
the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust
the fridge temp. The problem could be the electronic control if
you have one or the mechanical linkages.
You say " all thermistors check fine " , how did you check them ? Did you check for the 5-8 DC volts at the main control board , for the thermistors ? Did you do the diagnostic check for the thermistors from the control panel ? I'm sure you know there are 5 thermistors , since the refrig has the dual evap . Possibly the # 5 is bad , since it is the freezer temp " controller " , yet if it tells the board it's not cold enough , it still sends refrigerant to the refrig evap . Since the refrig evap has 2 fan motors , can't remember if there is a damper there also . Maybe when the # 3 thermistor is satisfied , it only cuts the fans off , even though refrigerant is still going thru the refrig evap .
FF probably stands for "Frost Free". Yes. Your defrost circuit must have a temp sensor to tell it when the defrost is working. And for your fridge...it isnt.
The warm fridge/barely cold freezer are both common symptoms of extreme frosting of the cooling coils.
You need to manually defrost this unit and replace the defrost element and/or the controller board/power supply. You can buy them pretty cheaply online. Replacement is a lot easier if you just shut off the fridge and let it come to room temp before removing the coil cover.
Go to the GE website and get an online diagram of your fridge so you can see where the parts all reside. If you timer is mechanical it should have a way to manually trigger it to confirm the heater element works. IC based boards need special commands to go manual.....but you should be able to get this info from GE.
We need to have a look at the main control board part number WRO2X11838 Tell me if the compressor is running while no cooling or if stopped. Unplug refrigerator and see if the top of compressor is too hot to keep you hand on. My drawing show the control bord in the area of the compressor and inside a box. Let me know if it has burn marks on both sides. Thanks, Let me know, Sea Breeze
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