SOURCE: bottom drawer hard to close
Check the drawer slides on each side for cracks or a screw that has come loose. The drawer should slide in a groove on each side firmly. Hope this helps. JT
SOURCE: freezer drawer handle loose...how do I tighten screws?
With a screwdriver?
Screws in plastic will wear with constant use , take the screw right out and wrap it with aluminium foil, then replace
SOURCE: I have a ge french door refrigerator with two
Hi Laura,
The repair guy did what any repair guy would have done under a warranty situation such as yours... door gaskets. I presume he explained why he was doing what did ("why's" are important, ya know...). If he didn't, let me run through it real quick, OK?
Warm air holds moisture and cold air doesn't... that it in a nutshell. But what's important to note is that if there is an air leak inside your freezer you'll notice it just as you have, with condensation forming. This tells the repair guy that cold air is escaping and warm air is entering the freezer. The first place to look is the door gasket and that's why he replaced it. But now you know it wasn't the gasket, right?
So the repair guy didn't find the source of the air leak. It happens. The reason is that most "factory" tech's are trained on the fly and have the habit of not looking too deep into a problem 'cause they're warranty guys. They get paid whether or NOT a problem was fixed. See? Independent repair guys like me only get paid WHEN the job is fixed. So there's a GREAT incentive for me to get it right the first time, right? (I'm not "bashing" them. I'm just clarifying that warranty repairs are hit and miss at best.)
The thing you gotta think about is "How many places are there for cold air to escape and warm air to enter?" The answer to that question is "4". Yep. FOUR places that this can happen and each of them have to be inspected for evidence of moisture. They are;
1.) Behind the fridge where the ice maker water tube is inserted through the cabinet and into the freezer.
2.) Behind the fridge where the wire bundle enters the freezer compartment.
3.) Behind the fridge in the compresser compartment where the evaporator drain comes OUT of the freezer compartment.
4.) The door gasket.
Since your unit is still under warranty I certainly wouldn't expect you to chase these down for yourself. You should call GE again and have the repair guy come do this for you (print this out so you will have the above checklist). This is to protect your warranty, by the way. If you (or an appliance repair company NOT authorized to work on it) work on it, you run the risk of voiding the warranty altogether.
There's a product on the market called "PermaGum" (here's a link). It's used to seal air leaks such as this. When you talk to GE, try to insist that the tech have some on his truck when he arrives... I have the feeling that he'll need it because I suspect a leak is occurring in one of the top 3 areas I mentioned above (either that, or he didn't install the door gasket correctly in the first place).
As an aside? Just a tip/hint... I know that your fridge is new and all, but to KEEP the door gaskets like new for (almost) ever, use Vaseline on them. Yep, Vaseline. Open the fridge door, dab your finger into the Vaseline and smear a light (light) coat of it on the door gaskets all the way around. This will do 2 things;
1.) It'll keep the door gaskets from ever drying out.
2.) It'll provide a very good and air-tight seal when the door is closed. (air leak, Laura?)
There ya go! I hope this has helped you in your quest to rid you freezer of pesky condensation. If so, please remember to rate this as "It fixed my problem", OK? After that, you can mix up a Mojito and bask in the knowledge that you are a completely informed consumer when the GE guy gets there to finally fix your fridge.
Take care,
SG
SOURCE: Handle on bottom freezer drawer is loose.
Take the handle and slide to the left as far as it could go to tighten handle. This worked for me.
SOURCE: rails for drawers have broken
This diagram shows the parts available for your model. It shows some rails. If you can see how the rails detach and go back on you can probably replace the broken ones. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?modelNumber=PDS22MCRABB&productCategoryId=0161000&brandId=0432&modelName=BOTTOM-MOUNT-REFRIGERATOR&diagramPageId=00001&componentDescription=DOORS%20&%20SHELVES&documentId=GR708119&blt=06
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