My refrigerator is general cool owned by climatic brand has started to not cooling as it should be, after a month, the freezer started not to freeze as before and gradually frozen food started to melt down. Before a year or so the upper panel between the refrigerator and the freezer started to carry a lot of water while temperature started to increase day by day. Please device what went wrong. Is it sensor. I disconnect the plug on main pcb then checked the resistance of three sensors: refrigerator R1 defrost D, , and F freezer are 1.2 ohm, 9.2 ohm and 9.1 respectively. The fzn capacitor is working Fine I checked it using the multimeter, it can charge and discharge similar to a new capacitor.

Thank you Vernon, it was helpful, I was havnt doubts on defrost system also, but, I checked the condenser, it is warm that I can place my hand on it for even 5 minutes. But could you please tell me how to bypass the thermostat and sensors as a compressor controls. How can I resend the schematic photo on fixya again Thank you Vernon, it was helpful, I was havnt doubts on defrost system also, but, I checked the condenser, it is warm that I can place my hand on it for even 5 minutes. But could you please tell me how to bypass the thermostat and sensors as a compressor controls. How can I resend the schematic photo on fixya again

Sorry but I don't know how you can send the picture again and as for your first question the matter needs your skill and judgement - I can only tell you how I have done it. The motor/compressor unit is generally wired into the same junction box as the power cord, the neutral being directly connected while the live is not. The live is connected to the thermostat or the relay of the thermostatic control and the return wire from the thermostat is connected to the motor - the thermostat switches the motor on or off and moving those wires, disconnecting or bridging those connections as appropriate will cause the compressor to run continuously without interference from the thermostat or defrost panel. If the cabinet doesn't then become cold enough in a reasonable time you will know the fault is with the refrigeration system (bad compressor or low refrigerant).

If the cabinet does become cold enough in a reasonable time the fault is in the control, be it electromechanical or electronic. Sorry but I don't know how you can send the picture again and as for your first question the matter needs your skill and judgement - I can only tell you how I have done it. The motor/compressor unit is generally wired into the same junction box as the power cord, the neutral being directly connected while the live is not. The live is connected to the thermostat or the relay of the thermostatic control and the return wire from the thermostat is connected to the motor - the thermostat switches the motor on or off and moving those wires, disconnecting or bridging those connections as appropriate will cause the compressor to run continuously without interference from the thermostat or defrost panel. If the cabinet doesn't then become cold enough in a reasonable time you will know the fault is with the refrigeration system (bad compressor or low refrigerant). If the cabinet does become cold enough in a reasonable time the fault is in the control, be it electromechanical or electronic.

Thank you, I just cleaned the cage-like condenser from heavy dust accumulated on it and leavening the Thank you, I just cleaned the cage-like condenser from heavy dust accumulated on it and leavening the

Thank you, I just cleaned the cage-like condenser from heavy accumulation of dust on it and left the refrigerator to drain all water and restarted it, guess what the freezer is working perfectly now, the fan motor is now working, however, initially the refregerator started cooling, but after approximately 28 hours the cooling of it is less., now is it still from defrost sensor malfunction or some other reason. Thank you, I just cleaned the cage-like condenser from heavy accumulation of dust on it and left the refrigerator to drain all water and restarted it, guess what the freezer is working perfectly now, the fan motor is now working, however, initially the refregerator started cooling, but after approximately 28 hours the cooling of it is less., now is it still from defrost sensor malfunction or some other reason.

Thank you, I just cleaned the cage-like condenser from heavy dust accumulated on it and leavening the refrigerator off for one day aowing it to drain water I to the tray, now the fan is working, freezer is back to normal, refrigerator has started to cool better than before, however, after 28 hrs of operation the inside or refrigerator started to have less cooling. Do you think the problem could be the defrost sensor Please advice. Thanks Thank you, I just cleaned the cage-like condenser from heavy dust accumulated on it and leavening the refrigerator off for one day aowing it to drain water I to the tray, now the fan is working, freezer is back to normal, refrigerator has started to cool better than before, however, after 28 hrs of operation the inside or refrigerator started to have less cooling. Do you think the problem could be the defrost sensor Please advice. Thanks

It might be that sensor if it has one - usually the defrost panel is briefly switched on after each cooling cycle to provide a continuous defrost, the melted ice then draining away into an evaporation tray fixed to the motor/compressor, leaving the cabinet interior atmosphere relatively dry.
The amount of heat available after each cooling cycle to evaporate the water is limited and that is why defrosting tends to be little and often. Sometimes the defrost panel might fail but they have proved very robust and reliable and sometimes the defrost timer can fail leaving it switched on.

What you believe to be the defrost sensor might be something else, perhaps a thermistor that is part of an electronic thermostat or just part of the digital temperature readout if it has one. It might be that sensor if it has one - usually the defrost panel is briefly switched on after each cooling cycle to provide a continuous defrost, the melted ice then draining away into an evaporation tray fixed to the motor/compressor, leaving the cabinet interior atmosphere relatively dry. The amount of heat available after each cooling cycle to evaporate the water is limited and that is why defrosting tends to be little and often. Sometimes the defrost panel might fail but they have proved very robust and reliable and sometimes the defrost timer can fail leaving it switched on. What you believe to be the defrost sensor might be something else, perhaps a thermistor that is part of an electronic thermostat or just part of the digital temperature readout if it has one.