Will pipe wrap insulation keep the water in my pipes cooler in the summer? my pipes are exposed on the roof.

Look underneath home and try to find/follow water supply pipe. If it is exposed you will probably have to wrap it with heated tape to prevent future freezing. When thawing pipe open a faucet in the home and keep an eye on the pipe. If there is a crack in the line, once the water starts to flow you will see it spraying/leaking out, and the pipe will have to be replaced. If there is no leakage, you are lucky.

Insulating your pipes won't stop the water from freezing but it will take a much longer time for the water to freeze, so it defintely helps a lot. I would do it if I were you.

The service utility wires coming from the utility pole, are not connected to the house (?) at present, correct?

Follow the city and county regulations stating the following,
(Should be determined from the National Electrical Code, and present year of the code. { NEC ),

,and the type of connection to the residence.

Whether it will be mounted to an outside wall of a 2 story residence, or a 1 story residence, makes a difference.

The weatherhead, (Service Entrance Cap) should be 17 feet from the ground, ACCORDING to my city, and county regulations.
(18 feet for some)

Sound ridiculous? Nope. Consider a 1 story residence is more than 12 feet from the ground, to the edge where the roof connects.

Foundation height, plus wall height, plus where the weatherhead pipe goes through the soffit, and at that area of the roof's angle.

Needs to be above the roof. ( 1 story)

For a 2 story dwelling it will be down from the roof.

Cannot be near a window that someone can just reach out, and grab it.
Or deck.

Use common sense, and determine if someone can easily come in contact with the weatherhead, and service utility wires.
If so, DO NOT PUT IT THERE.

Example from a 1 story dwelling, that I just installed a 200 amp service;

I mounted the meter 'can' to the outside wall, at a height of 5 feet, to the center of the meter. (Meter 'can', or meter box = Meter Socket)
But it would be BEST, if you would check the local city, and county regulations.

Meter 'can' must be at a height that an average person can read it, and above a height that a child cannot easily reach it. (Even though meter readers use electronic equipment to read the meter, usually)

MUST be fastened to the wall -> W-E-L-L
Mounted to a backing board that is considered weatherproof.

(I used 3/4 inch treated plywood. Painted it. Back, front, and edges, BEFORE installing. Caulked around the backing board to the siding. Needs to keep water, and bugs out)

Use galvanized screws, or stainless steel screws. (Flat head, large head. 3/4 Inch long for meter can to backing board. 1-1/2 Inch for backing board to wall, and with a countersunk head)

Must be level, and plumb.

(Plumb. Perfectly straight up, and down. Wall siding makes the mounting crooked? Use shims under the backing board, to keep the meter can plumb)

The insulated cable of three wires, that comes from the Service Panel, (Breaker box), and goes to the Meter 'can' that is outside, is the Service Entrance Cable.

[DO NOT use three individual wires. Use a Service Entrance Cable ]

The service entrance cable coming from the service panel, ('Breaker box'), through the dwelling, and into the meter can, must have a Service Entrance Elbow.

Where the service entrance cable meets the wall, (Goes through the wall), coming down from the Meter 'can', there needs to be something to block that hole off, around the service cable.

It also needs to dissuade water from coming in.
It also needs to be sealed with caulking, from it to the dwelling, to keep water, and insects out. (To include ants)

The top of the Meter 'can' has a Raintight Hub on top.
Raintight hub; Square, or rectangle metal plate, with a round hub on top that has threads in it.

Since I installed a 200 Amp service, the pipe (Service Mast) size is 2 inch.
(Inner diameter of pipe)
Use Teflon pipe dope, or Teflon tape, on the threads of the pipe.

I used a metal pipe because it is going through the soffit of my roof, and through the roof itself. The service utility wires coming from the utility pole, will anchor TO that pipe. Not to the house. Where the service utility wires come to the house, it is a one-story height.

Service panel ('Breaker box') is in my back enclosed porch.

The pipe (Service Mast) to the weatherhead is anchored to the outside wall. For my height/length of pipe, I used two strap clamps. Galvanized screws for the strap clamps, and used caulking on the threads. (You are piercing the paint, or outside skin of your siding. Need to make it watertight)

I cut a 2-1/4 inch hole through the soffit, making sure I would go in-between any rafters for the roof.
Same size hole in the roof sheeting, and roofing.
(2 inch pipe, 2-1/4 inch hole)

Where the pipe comes through the roof, you use a metal/rubber jack, on the roof. Since I have shingles, the jack goes under the shingles, for the upper half of the jack, then the bottom of the jack is mounted on top of the shingles.

(Just like mounting a jack for a vent pipe)

I used silicone caulking for the area of jack, to roof. (Under the jack, and on the Shingles)
The weatherhead pipe goes through the roof about 2 feet. It is VERY supportive. (Strong mounting)

You are required to leave 24 inches of wire, sticking out of the weatherhead. (2 feet)
Ask the city utility workers? "Just leave me something to connect to." lol!

Where the wires come out of the weatherhead, there needs to be a drip loop. The service utility wires connect to a service mast clamp, connected to the pipe, (Service Mast), then make a drop loop (drip loop) before they go into the weatherhead.

[ The utility company uses a wedge clamp on the service utility wires, and it connects to the service mast clamp ]

This is for water to run off. Helps keep water that runs down the service utility wires, from coming into the weatherhead's holes.
(Wires are TOO tight in the weatherhead's holes, for ANY of that to happen!)

Use dish soap on the last wire, to help feed it through the pipe, and the weatherhead.
Yes, I know what I stated.

By the time the third wire goes through the weatherhead, it is TIGHT.
You'll be thanking me later, and cussing me if you do not do it right.

With soap on the last wire, and gloves on, (Sissy, lol!), you feed the last wire down though the pipe, TO the meter can. (Weatherhead is NOT installed) (You have already fed the other two wires, down the pipe)

Insulator out of the weatherhead, feed the three wires, ONE at a time, through the weatherhead holes. Yes, soap, and cussing is required.

Try putting a 2/0 copper wire through that insulator. Okay? Sure.
Now wait until it comes to the second wire, THEN the LAST wire.

NO, I DO NOT recommend using your Klien's on that wire, or any of those wires. Cut the insulation, and you will be replacing the entire length of wire.

I used the insulator of the weatherhead as a tool. Insulator removed from weatherhead. Put each wire, one at a time, in one of the holes of the insulator, and made a pre-bend on each wire. Then said a few choice words as I stuffed 'em in the insulator.
Fun stuff. You will be just SO HAPPY!

(Use care so that you do not break the insulator. The insulator in that weatherhead is pretty tough, but let me tell ya,...2/0 wires are TOUGHER! Hold your pinky finger up. Yep, that is how thick they are)

Once the wires are stuffed through the weatherhead's insulator, then you need to push the insulator down the wires, and into the weatherhead. (Yes. More fun stuff)

Put the screws back in the weatherhead, that hold that insulator in.
Remember, leave 2 FEET of wire hanging out of that weatherhead.

ALSO, you have to mark the wire that is used for the Common wire.

(The service utility wires have two HOT wires, and one COMMON wire. The COMMON wire is NOT the Ground wire. The GROUND wire comes up from the ground, or cold water pipe, { Cold water pipe. IF allowed by city, AND county regulations}, and connects to the meter can.

When you go to connect the Common wire to the service meter can, you better keep track of it.
You are supposed to use the white electrical tape, used for marking wires.

Wrap a few wraps around the bottom end of the wires insulation, about two inches up, on the Common wire connecting to the service meter can's lug.

Do the same for the wire coming out of the weatherhead,
This way the utility company will know, which wire is the Common wire.

What have I left out?

A) Service Mast Clamp,

http://www.macleanpower.com/products/item.asp?ITEM_ID=1408

B) Roof Jack,

http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=17599

Doesn't have to be this style. Similar is okay.

C) Service Entrance Cable elbow,

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/electrical-electrical-boxes-conduit-fittings-conduit-fittings/halex-1-in-service-entrance-elbow-129178.html

For additional questions please post in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette

You can use metal strapping with short self-tapping sheet metal screws also where it penetrates roof a metal collar on inside should be used and a roof collar approved for B-wall vent pipe to keep water from leaking inside on outside on the roof.You can penetrate outside of B-wall vent pipe with short screws to secure the pipe just don't penetrate both pipes.this outside pipe is just a insulator to keep heat from transferring through pipe.

1st You must know that you can attach the heat tape by spiral wrapping, or by straight run (in- line with the pipe); held temporarily with a few pieces of tape. Of course you will need to apply an insulating wrap (in either case).
The straight run gives the least heat per foot but covers more pipe. The tighter (closer) the spiral wrap of the heat tape loops, the more heat per foot but the shorter the coverage. If the pipe is 1/2" or 3/4" DIAM. then a straight run is sufficient. If 1" to 1 1/4" then a very wide spiral. If 1 1/2 to 2" then a closer loop spiral. In no case should the loops touch each other nor be closer than 3/4" to each other. And avoid having the heat tape cross itself at valves, elbows, etc. PLease note that this is all based on winter temps of 0 degree F. or above and using normal 1" THICK WRAP INSULATION. If you have temps down to -30 or so, then give minimum 2" thick insulation.
Good Luck Macgivor.

I feel the water drops are condensation caused by cold air when its warm weather. There should be a catch basin to catch it and it should dry itself out in a while if not is there any place you can put one in yourself. Maybe just wrapping the pipe with a towel could help. the pipe is cold and it could cause water to form. I would try to insulate the pipe with pipe wrap. You can buy it at a hardware store. See what happens.

OK Lag the Pipes, you can get insulation that comes in two halves that goes around the pipes and uses "Ties" to hold the sides together. Or you could lag it with Hessian wrap, Anything you can wrap around and "Lag" the pipes with will be better than nothing.

Not exactly, the heated water in the tank it self is roughly the desired temperature of the thermostat, there is a variable of 5 to 15+ degrees depending on its calibration. there are other considerations i.e. water heater tank insulation - hot water pipes being exposed to cooler temperatures thus cooling the water in the pipe - the farther distance that the water travels from the heat source, the cooler the water will be at the spigot.